F355 Bypass valve noise

Does any one have a fix for the rattle/ vibration from the bypass valve at idle on the 355 ? Mine makes a sound at idle caused by a vibration of the operating arm that can be stoped with very light finger pressure so maybe an extra spring or some form of damper could be used ?

 

If you use the search feature there is a ton of info on fixing, replacing, wiring open etc it is a common 355 problem

 

If it only rattles at idle, pop off the ball fitting, tighten it one or two turns and pop it back on. Or let the dealer do it, $600 .

 

Dont spend $600 wire it open or live with the rattle. Norwoods fitted an F50 valve to mine which solved the problem.

 

Just a quick question are we talking about the exhaust by pass valve here?

 

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Thanks that sounds like a good idea if I make it longer by a turn or two it will load the valve and stop the noise a good simple fix .

No way will I take it to a dealer !

 

Don't make it longer or you will always have a bad idle spot and it will rattle, make the threaded rod 1 or 2 turns shorter.

 

Thank you very mutch for your help and interest but
if I make it shorter is there a possiblity that the valve will be over center when open & the valve will be free to vibrate making a noise when closed ?

How will the valve effect the idle ?

Wally.

 

When you get all done trying to adjust it and it still rattles wire it open if this were a simple adjustment fix there are many of us would have done that a long time ago.

 

Your only going to shorten it by a turn or two, it will have almost no effect on the position of it, just enough to take out the slack. Make sure you let WD40 soak on it 1st, they all rust. Don't worry about the open position, it;s designed to run full open at approx 3200RPM's and it's only being held open by vacuum pressure so it won't break.

 

Not concerned that it may break but that it may be over center and therfore be restrictive .

 

If you tighten the rod you make it shorter and LESS restrictive.

 

Am I missing somthing I thought the valve would be vertical ( ie closed ) at idle & horizontal above 3000 RPM ( ie fully open ) so as the travel remains constant then by starting slightly of vertical ( shorter rod ) it will be over horizontal when fully open hence starting to close very slightly though proberbly not a significant amount .

 

there is a stopper on the shaft mechanism to stop the over-centering you mention, in this way the engineer who design the system did inshure the complete opening of the valve even in different levels of vacuem in the reservoir.

 

My question to Wally is this, it's a simply valve that commonly rattles if not adjusted, many of us have tried explaining the way it fuctions to you including myself with attached diagrams, it's a 10 minute job to remove the air boxs and heat sheild to get to it, instead of trying to read how it operates why don't you pull it off and look at it??????

 

Car is in UK I am not .