Boxer clutch question

Start by bleeding the brakes and clutch line. Make sure there is no air in the system.

 

Yes, to bleed it you need to bleed from the master out, and there is a bleeder valve on the top of the clutch housing, which you bleed last. You could try bleeding that first to see if there is air in the line, but I would do a proper bleed of the entire system. LF, RF, LR, RR then clutch.

 

The brake and hydraulic clutch are separate systems.

Check the fluid level for the clutch in the front hood drivers side a small reservoir. If its considerably low you have a leak somewhere probably the flexible hose the goes to the slave on the motor. You could have a bad master or slave cylinder as well, the slave is on the motor, it has a bleeder nipple on top you may try as well.

Have a helper push in the clutch and watch the arm that goes to the trans for movement, sounds like you have a bad hose, slave or master.

 

If its low or empty enough to cause your problem you probably have a leak and will at minimum need to bleed the clutch at the slave, and yes just fill it with a quality brake fluid.

 

yes, a quality brake fluid, DOT 3 don't use silicone DOT5 it will damage the seals.

All the fluid specs are in the owners manual, if you don't have one register at the Ferrari owners site and download one for free.

 

If you still have problems after bleeding (and I suspect you will) then either the clutch slave and or master cylinder seals have gone. Try replacing/repairing slave first . Or maybe the connecting hose/pipe is gone or has a loose connection?
Ron

 

These symptoms are essentially identical to the ones I saw when my slave cylinder failed on my '81 Boxer. Rebuild kits are readily available and it is easy to do. The retaining circlip can be tough to remove without just the right tool, as I recall, but the rebuild is easy, just a quick hone and new seals.

 

Fill the clutch reservoir then have a helper pump the clutch or rig something to hold the clutch pedal to the floor after pumping it then crack the bleeder nipple on the slave on the motor, keep doing it till you get a firm pedal and no more air comes out, catch the fluid with a rag as its under pressure and will shoot everywhere and if it gets on your paint it will destroy it

 

Please, please promise not to apply that same logic if your brakes should fail to engage next time around.

If the reservoir for any hydraulic system in your car is empty it is either leaking or so incredibly out of adjustment that you have exhausted the available fluid supply. I do not believe that pumping up your clutch pedal will cause it to self bleed. By rapidly cycling the pedal you are just compressing the air trapped in the lines so as to make the slave cylinder function. Temporarily.

While this may be effective for your clutch situation please don't attempt this if you experience a similar situation with your braking system. I can almost assure you that you will be sourcing a new front clip if you attempt that.

Best to you,

Steve

 

The best gadget in the universe for bleeding the brakes or clutch is a Motive pressure bleeder. You put fluid in it and connect it to the top of the reservoir, then pump it up to 15 psi with a hand pump on the top. Now you just open the bleed screw and let the pressure do the work. This is especially useful with brakes, where you can damage the master cylinder seal by pumping the pedal too far down. For $50 it is the best investment ever for doing brakes or hydraulic clutches.

Birdman

 

You have the leak due to the cold temps. As we all know metal and rubber contracts when it gets cold. As this has happened the fluid is making it's way around the seals. I'd say your slave cylinder just needs a quick rebuild. Fresh seals will do the trick.

I've had this problem on a few cars with old clutch slave seals. They’d work fine when it was 70+ degrees out then we’d get a cold front (this was in Dallas) and the next day the temp would be 40+ and the clutch wouldn’t be working as well. New slave seals always did the trick.