HELP WITH CARB SYNCH AFTER CARB REBUILD | Page 2 | FerrariChat

HELP WITH CARB SYNCH AFTER CARB REBUILD

Discussion in 'Technical Q&A' started by hanknum, Nov 23, 2005.

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  1. DzusFast

    DzusFast Karting

    Aug 20, 2005
    82
    Tahoe/Reno
    Full Name:
    Elmer Fudd Gantry

    *Insert big YES here*
    Idle mixtures shouldn't be out more than 3 turns. (2 1/4~3/4) Unless you've done other mods.......I believe you mentioned an ignition mod; if your too advanced (I don't think you are, problems elsewhere ) with timing there's your answer.

    VACUUM leak. I can't emphasize enough. What you described to me is a COVER UP of your problem. The fact that it's not sputtering or popping could be co-incidental (Luck).

    Immediately take it to a shop with a four gas analyzer to substantiate my guidance here. It should be high both co and hc; if not, ya got some weird configuration that is working out for you. (NOT!)
     
  2. bwassam

    bwassam Formula Junior

    Jan 3, 2005
    635
    North Bend, Oregon
    Full Name:
    Robert Wassam
    I had a high idle problem with my '77 GTB. It turned out to be the manifolds were corroded from the antifreeze not being phosphate free. I'm not saying that this is your problem.

    The symptoms were that the car would idle at 1000 RPM until it got warm and then the idle went up to 2000 to 2300 RPM and wouldnt stay below that RPM even when forced to by using the clutch. The mechannic found a vacuum leak between the head and the manifold. When he pulled off the manifold he found the corrosion. So, what started out to be a carb problem turned out to be something else. I'm passing this along to the list for information only.

    Bob Wassam
     
  3. Bryan

    Bryan Formula 3

    #28 Bryan, Dec 8, 2005
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Similar problem with my C4. I could not get the carbs synched. It would run fine for a while, then run rough, then idle at 2000, then run OK, then die. Finally tracked it down to an ignition wire caught between the distributor body and the mounting point. This threw the dizzy slightly off kilter so that the timing was always wandering.

    The cable ran BEHIND one of the three mounting bolts so the only way it got there was when a dizzy was off the car, which I have never done.

    The only time the dizzies were off, since I have owned the car, was for the 30,000 mile service, which I did not do.

    Re-routed the cable, went through the synch process. Runs fine now at 1.75 turns out on the idle mixture screws and a little bit of air correction to get the volume flow balanced.
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