I've spent hours looking at this. I wish I had a transmission/clutch on the bench for reference, as Billybob does. My conclusion: The spacer #48 (red in my color diagram) is designed to fit in one location only, NOT to be adjustable. It can't go inward any further, it's up against the land on the flywheel. And there is no reason for it to go outward any further - what would be the purpose? It would just be rattling around. No, it appears to me that this "spacer" (that's what it's called in the parts book) could more accurately be called a "plug". The hex screw #57 (yellow in my color diagram) has no apparent function other than to hold the "spacer" in place against the land on the flywheel. Again, no adjusting function at all. So why is there a hole in the flywheel land that needs to be plugged? I've come up with two ideas: 1) The hole is there as part of the machining process for the flywheel hub, probably to center the tool that cuts the threads for the ring nut. 2) The hole is there to provide a "nose" location for a clutch alignment tool. In conclusion, I can't really see why Ferrari bothered to provide either the spacer or the hex screw! Why not leave that hole open and eliminate the threaded hole for the hex screw inside the ring nut? What difference would it make? Billybob, I've read your long post several times, and I'm impressed with your explanation! I still have a couple of questions which I will post later.
This post is great! It shows me that I don't know Jack! When I ever have clutch problems, I'll get someone to fix it FOR ME!
Paul's diagram in Post 50 is the drawing used to show the setup height for the twin-disc clutch. It appears to show a solid "land" in the flywheel hub, no hole in it, and no spacer. It does show the hex screw, but it isn't doing anything!
FBB said "4) endcap and hexscrew can only effect position of flywheel assemly as that is the only thing they are connected to" Flywheel position is determined by the fit into the bearing and its housing, the big bolt being fully tightened, and the rear alloy cap being fitted. The hex screw ONLY preloads the little spacer, which if left loose would allow the input shaft to float excessivly. The Big bolt MUST be done up with the hex screw fully loosened or removed, and then nipped up afterwards. The clutch is not adjustable, other than by removing the shims.
Joe , Don't do that learn to play it is part of the enjoyment. This is a highly technical thread and we really are beating sand into glass.
I think it is more this than anything else. Just like the grease in the Flywheel you really do not need but that's for another holywar...and I can prove my point on that one too.
I agree with you there. No grease is better than half full grease. Full grease is ok, but can't be trusted to stay there!
FerrariFixer I am sorry to roast you on this and prove you wrong. I would not have done it but you called me out and you totally dissed NoDoubt by putting him down in a harsh way. You carry a lot of weight around here and you are the 800 pound Gorilla and you shut down NoDoubt like a banana. Personally, most of what he posts on FC is correct as I understand it. He is knowledgeable. I respect you and applaud you for sharing your knowledge for free and hope this thread will not keep you from posting and sharing. I have learned things from you and assume I will in the future. No hard feelings... That said here goes... O.K. youall look at my pictures. Thanks Ernie for the use of your gearbox for demo. I only have a couple nuts and screws left over. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
got your guys attention? Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
the pain is almost over Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
No worries FBB. You are correct in pulling me up. I shouldn't have said the input shaft is preloaded, as clearly it is not, but I do maintain that the spacer that controls input shaft float is preloaded. I simply didn't think this small detail was necessary to convey the info. I've seen many triple seals leaking, causing premature clutch replacemnt, and more often than not, the hex screw has been incorrectly set promoting the leak. Gorilla... ha ha, you haven't met me... I'm built for speed, not comfort. I don't beat around the bush, as anyone that knows me will confirm. Anyone peddling wrong info that I can see will be corrected. I've had words with No doubt before somewhere. He's a great enthusiast, but perhaps too keen with advice in some instances. It's mainly a wording thing. He means well for sure.
FBB, We have got to talk about your dash... I have just the thing for you! Display, shift lights, alarms, laptimes, and 8 megabytes of memory for logging all these engine and chassis parameters. Below is a picture of what I recommend for you and I know you will love this. It will make your dash look like the rest of your car! It looks great! Who did the cage? Image Unavailable, Please Login
Ohhh.....Very cool. I like that but may be too lazy to put it in. Can it connect to stock sensors and spedo? And where/how do I get a tach signal from the motronic ecu? I did my own cage. I bought a mandrel tube bender, designed and welded it myself. Cage is welded to car into the suspension and the full containment seat is attached to the cage. I use a 6 point schroth hans 4 shoulder system. If you want ot do one I can post some build pics in another thread.
The tach is simple, the same wire running your current tach is fine. the speedo signal will also work if it is a hall effect or square waveform. The rest of the sensors can all be used, we just need to calibrate them. This stuff is as easy for me as the clutch issues are easy for you! Let's work on this together... I got out of the driver's seat a long time ago when I realized I didn't have the money to pursue the spacer status. Spacer= the spacer between the steering wheel and seat...
Fully configuable up to 22,000 RPM... In fact, all of the "real estate" on the screen can be assigned to any channel and alarms and messages are as text overrides in the lower portion of the screen... There are different views programmable for the display so you can set it up in any configuration and use them all by a simple button... BTW FF, is your location Melboune, FL or Oz?
Oz. I see by your user name you're aware of MoTeC... how is your dash in comparison with their product. Better, cheaper, more functions, ????
I worked for MoTeC for 12 years. I know all your mates over there, I have been there several times. The AIM dash is geared more towards club level racing and has most of the ADL features at a fraction of the cost. Retail on our product is US $1799.00 with harness, beacon tx and rx, download cable, temp sensor, wheel speed sensor, harness extensions, software and manuals. Believe me, I know their product well. Just ask Phil Morriss...
Phil is the MoTeC worldwide operations manager. Sorry, I thought you knew them. Do you play with MoTeC or Autronic? Good engine controllers which I interface with both (among many others) making sensor and wiring duplication obsolete in an installation... BTW, your V8 Supercar series ROCKS! I loved my trip to Bathurst! Image Unavailable, Please Login
Only used them a little bit. Use Marelli normally as std equip on Ferrari. Whats that data from.. 273 at 6900rpm at conrod is not V8 supercar (or maybe a slow one).... I like watching V8, but the cars are technical dinosaurs compared to Ferrari.
data is from a Falcon EL back in 2000... I have to disagree with you on this... HRT is hardly dinosoar technology...
They are all dinosaurs... the cars that is... single cam push rod cast iron engines. Live axle. No differential. H pattern gearbox. dreadful 17" tyres on a 1400kg 4 door... Minimal aero. dinosaurs. But fun to watch.
