30K: Question & Answer Time

Not sure what the question is but the aluminum coolant pipe does come off for the reason that you stated. If the hoses should be replaced, then during this procedure is the time to do that. I know this is only a small part of what you were asking but I hope this helps.

 

Greg:
1) In my recollection on the 328, I loosened the alternator bolt from underneath--reached up with a carefully placed socket and a wrench. There would not be any harm in cutting the belt, but you are going to have to get in there anyhow to tighten the new belt anyhow?
2) Yes the Alum coolant pipe needs to come-off and yes i would replace the hoses. Have read posts about the difficulty people have putting the pipe back in with new rubber hoses. I strongly recommend silicone hoses for this area because they are much more flexible. Also, when reinstalling the aluminum pipe be sure it does not rub on the cold air intake duct or the fuel tank--it can rub thru the coolant pipe.
3) There is something there, I wired the compressor on my 328 to something--- it may have been a gas tank strap?

Mark

 

Greg:
Another thing about the alternator. After I had my car almost all put back together I thought I should have had the alternator rebuilt. You really should consider it too because all that stuff would have to come out again to do the alternator.

Enjoy,
Mark

 

The coolant pipe DOES NOT have to come all the way off. Just drain the coolant down a couple of gallons, disconnect the upper end of the pipe, loosten the lower end & swing it down until it's parallel with the lower horizontal frame member.

You reach the alternator tension nut by coming up from underneath. (You'll usually scrape a bit of hide off doing it. Search the archives for 'blood sacrifice' and 'alternator' for specifics & a bit of a laugh.)

 

The compressor lines themselves will hold the compressor just fine as it lays against the back of the fuel tank. No ties required...
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That is correct. The AC has to be out of the way or the timing cover will not come out at all. However, to do this you must remove 2 of the mounting studs. Another option is to evacuate the system, disconnect the unit and take it out. Or, you could get 99% of the work done, let the compressor slip out of your hands as your are reinstalling it, so that the pulley strikes the timing belt cover, breaks the seal and leaks all the coolant out anyway. Ask me how I know.

The unit will swing up, over and into the wheel well once you get those studs out. I think there is a frame member or something you can zip tie it to in there or just let it hang. Be sure the lines are not rubbing on the gas tank when you put it back, or cut some hose and add some protection.

Take the AC out first then go to the Alt. You should be able to get to the pivot bolt from underneath with a deep well socket of the appropriate size and a 1/2" drive wrachet. Mine was a BEOTCH to get lose.

 

Correct- but it has more slack as shown in this next photo. There is a small bracket for a fuel line that needs to be loosened, and I think we pulled one stud. Memory fades....

Yes, the earlier photo is with the engine out, but the compressor was moved, and the front belt cover removed before the engine was pulled.
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Agreed- I do enjoy working on the 308- with my mistakes and all.

 

Just don't over tension the belts when you put them back in. let the spring do the work

http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=86341

 

If you have a US spec car, there will be a small, cylindrical charcoal canister connected to the gas tank with 3 small hoses. The canister has to be removed before you can drape the compressor over the tank. You have to lift the compressor lines up & over the 3 tubes coming out of the tank.

Trick is to loosten all 3 hoses, & the mounting bolt to the tank, then work the hoses off, either 1 at a time, or all at once. Note where the hoses are connected. (1 crosses behind another 1 or 2), otherwise the lengths won't work out on re-installation.