348 suspension tuning bushings etc.

Thanks mate. Mine is a 12/91. Which spacers did you put in yours? 15mm or 25mm? Is there a big difference in the handling using the 15mm or 25mm??

 

I used 25mm on mine. See the thread referenced in my above post for before-and-after pictures. I have not personally run 15mm on the rear of my car, so I can't comment on whether they're nearly as good as the 25's.

-Daniel


---- sorry for the hijack.... now, back to discussion of bushings.

 

I just want plain rubber bushings. I've got a Spider, not a racer, but bushings and shocks seem to be made of unobtanium for the 348.

With an 11 year old car, the old rubber is bound to be nearing replacement age, too.

 

One of our F-Chat sponsors, FerrariParts.Co.UK, is now carrying the 348 Spider rubber bushings (NOS):

front suspension:
mounting bush 130516 £25.70 each
top mounting 114812 £30.29 each

rear suspension:
mounting bush 130516 £25.70 each
top mounting 114812 £30.29 each


FatBillyBob/Ernie/Miltonian, do we need 2 bushings on each corner, and do we need the top mountings if age is our only concern?

 

I don't think I can post the link here but have you guys tried to contact specialists who modifys 911? They have tons of knowledge on trackings & mods. They have this poly bronze bushing that eliminates squeaks unlike ployurethane & is far better than rubber. My friend installed them in his 911 & swears by it & I'll probably do the same for mine soon. They are in San Jose, California. The company is elephant racing. Check search engines for their contacts & maybe you guys can share the expertise to improve our Ferraris?

 

No Doubt are you sure those part numbers are correct. My parts manual shows three different bushings are needed for the A-arms.

qty part num desciption
16 154537 Used on both front and rear a-arms
4 154538 Used on the outside rear a-arm
4 154539 Used on the inside rear a-arm

Energy suspension makes the first and last one in their supposed non-squeak hyper-flex bushing which is what I am currently putting in my car. I have yet to find someone who makes 154538 beyond Ferrari so I will probably give up my search here this weekend and just buy those four from Daniel at Ricambi.

 

Also honestly if you are replacing one its almost as much work as doing them all. I think its worth doing stuff right if you are going to do it so you might as well do them all.

 

John, I'm not at all sure about the part numbers, what superceded what, quantity, location, materials, tools required for safe removal/replacing, etc.

We need a "How To Replace Your Bushings" 348 Tech thread with the latest part numbers, pictures, etc.
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One of our FChat sponsors now carries these bushings for the 348:
154537 @ 41.20 only have a limited supply of these
154538 @ 22.51 no problem with stock on these
154539 @ 44.50 again have these in stock

mounting bush 130516 £25.70 each
top mounting 114812 £30.29 each

 

Ferrari has two special tools that facilitate removal, much better than two Craftsman 1/2" drive sockets (one pusher, one receiver). The special tools are hardened tool steel and are a perfect fit to the control arm bushing "flange". I'll have to sketch one... I don't have one or the part numbers. Not too tough to build with some steel plate and say 3.5" diameter pipe, weld up and heat treat.

Or you can do it the brute force method... an acetylene torch. Burn the rubber out of the old bushing. To remove the bushing shell (usually hardened steel), either catch an edge with a chisel and beat it out, or carefully melt an edge with a cutting torch, then blow a line in the shell with oxygen. It’s tricky.

Best,

Rob

 

Rob, Dr. Carl, here's a *very* rough draft for a step-by-step on changing our shocks. Please correct any glaring errors and offer tips (if any, especially step 6) on improving the job (e.g. compress the spring as soon as the wheel is removed instead of waiting until step 9):


*********WIP***********Not For Actual SHOCK CHANGE USE (yet)************
Spring compressor. If you don't have it, then buy it. They can be had for $10 at Harbor Freight Tools. If you are really strapped for cash, you can even borrow a set from a local chain auto parts store for free. Just do NOT use the brute force method. Sure it can be done that way, but why risk injury for not having a tool that can be had for $10? Just do it safely, OK? All right (off soap box) .

There is one caveat to all this. Replacing the shocks will require a wheel alignment.

OK: How it's done

1. Jack the rear of the car up and get it on stands (don't forget the chocks).

2. Remove your rear wheels and set them aside.

3. Break loose but DO NOT remove the top strut bolt #35. This is so when it comes time to remove it, you're not having to hold/hug the spring/strut assembly as you twist this bolt off. Might as well break it loose now while the car's chassis is holding the strut assembly still for you. (Note: if you have air tools, then this step probably won't matter.)

4. Now it's time to remove the stuff connected to the strut before you can pull it out. Remove the brake lines and ABS and when you see that there are no other lines still connected to the entire strut assembly, then you can now proceed.

5. Place a jack underneath the lower control arm.
6. Remove the top four strut mount bolts (***before compressing spring??***).
7. Remove the bottom strut bolt and pull out the strut assembly.
8. Note with tape where both ends of the spring go AND the orientation of
the spring (ie which end of the spring is UP - locate any writing on the spring
to help you do this).
9. With the spring compressors, compress the spring to remove the tension on the top part of the assembly.

10. Now remove bolt #35 that you loosened in step 3 and disassemble the strut. As you remove the strut components, arrange them sequentially on the floor nearby for easy reference in reassembly.

11. Next, using your new shock, reinsert the spring (still compressed by the
spring compressor). Reconstruct the top strut assembly in reverse order in which you did step 10.
12. Once you reinserted and tightened down the top strut bolt #35, release the springs from the spring compressors.

PAY ATTENTION TO SPRING ALIGNMENT.

13. Reinsert the strut in the wheel well and push it up so that the four screws are protruding in the engine bay. Tighten but do not necessarily torque the four bolts.

14. Align the bottom part of the strut and insert the bottom bolt. Torque down the bolt.

15. Tighen the top four bolts. Tighten the center bolt #35.

16. Reattach the brake lines, ABS, etc.

17. Change the shock on the other side using the above steps.

18. When you complete the other side, put your wheels back on and lower the car.

19. RECHECK the torque on all top bolts for each side when the car is back on the ground and the struts are supporting the weight of the car.

20. Bleed brakes.

21. That's it. Now take the car to the shop and get your front wheels realigned.
***************END WIP****DO NOT USE FOR ACTUAL SHOCK CHANGE*****************
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Paul,

Have you had any more thoughts on these bushes yet, I really want to replace my rear wishbone bushes while I have the engine and suspension out of my Spider.

Regards,
Phil.

 

Phil,

Still on the back burner - It does look like it will be a MoS filled material but I would not recommend them for street use as the ride would be far too harsh. I don’t think you can beat a new set of rubber bonded bushes for street/track day use - I’m sure that just replacing the bushes with the OEM ones will make it feel like a new car!

Paul

 

Paul,

Thanks for the quick reply, looks like I will looking for some reasonable priced Ferrari rubber bushes then (LOL)!!

Regards,
Phil.