TR steering wheel / hub nut removal..Help

Unfortunately, yes. That style of nut (usually called a "ring-nut") is often used on rotating shafts where you need a large thread ID but not a huge cross-section. It's a case of you either make your own tool or buy one from www.baumtools.com (measure the OD of your ring nut for the size -- and please post the value) or an authorized F place (but the Baum price is much more rational than from F).

Try a search on "baum". Should get you a lot threads describing the great lengths that others have gone to I personally like having one in my toolbox.
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Adam,

I went to Ferrari of Wide World of Cars, and borrowed the tool to take off the hub of my 328. You may want to try and see if they would lend it to you as well.

 

Yes, this uncertainty about the TR size had come up before (which is why I asked you to measure and post the value ). IIRC, it was reported that the 28mm size was the correct one, but I have no data on this.

 

I think Baum has it available -- maybe "smog pump pulley" size, but just give them (and us ) the outer diameter measurement of the circular portion.

I just bought the FR102 and FR105 from Baum during my 308 Stewardship rather than making my own, so I must have fabricated ever taking my TR apart in my imagination (which created the confusion -- oops!). Mine are both fabricated like the jpeg on the left (even though that's the FR105 image from the Baum site on the right).

Sorry about not making it clearer in my first post about the possible uncertainty -- it wouldn't hurt if you could try to let Baum know that their description for FR105 should be more model specific (or exclusionary) and they should add "TR steering wheel hub ring-nut" to the one that works.

 

Dear Ferraristi,

Steve ( 91TR ) & I had this exact conversation a couple of years ago. He is absolutely right about Baum tools. I had the same problem you had. You need tool FR 104 to remove the hub. There seems to be different size ring nuts on the various TRs. My TR is a 91 US version. I actually went into the garage to verify the tool as I'm writing this. I hope this helps.

Shamile

Freeze....Miami Vice !

 

Do not use that type of puller, you may damage the hub. If you look on either side of the hub bolt, you will see two holes for a puller to be mounted.

mount the puller and tighten. If it does not move, tap on the head of the puller center bolt with a hammer to break free the hub from the spindle.

no other bolts or fasteners hold the hub, only that center bolt. the hub tends to bind to the shaft over time but should have no problem removing with this puller.


best regards, Jim
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Adam -- Is your TR steering wheel hub the same or different than this jpeg of my '91?

I've noted that the TR SPC steering hub illustration for my SN doesn't match my '91's actual part shape so it could be they made some other changes/improvements over the years (like adding some extra tapped holes for a puller when needed) -- just a thought since you have an early-ish TR.

If the "holes in the risers" on yours are something like mine (a "sheetmetal" structure) and you're using a jaw-type puller engaged in those holes, you'd need to limited the force from the puller (i.e., the sheetmetal structure may be permanently damaged before the tapered joint releases). If you are forced to use those features to engage the puller, I think you could tighten up the puller as much as you think is safe for the sheetmetal structure and then give the central threaded rod of the puller a few raps with a hammer as Jim suggested. However, if you're forced to grab the "riser", you might be better off using the flat bolt-on type puller (preferably with 3 legs at 120 deg) since, when bolted in place, the 3-leg part of the puller will add stiffness to the riser structure (but you still need to be careful with how much force you put on the puller -- don't just crank it until something "pops").
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Brian,
Here is some info of an "economical" way that you can use to remove the steering wheel hub and nut from your TR and possibly other F-Cars. I just did this 4 days ago................

First, if you need a puller to remove the wheel, call or visit your local Advanced Auto Parts store, http://advanceauto.know-where.com/advance-auto-parts/ (AutoZone and others probably have the same item) and "borrow" it for a $22 deposit, which they refund when you return it or you can keep the puller and you now own a puller for $22, the appropriate puller, which comes in an attractive protective plastic storage case with a variety of bolts and fixtures. It is part #648645 and/or Kit #14. It is the proper puller with one draw back..............It does not have the appropriate bolts with the proper thread pitch that you will need. I do NOT know what the correct size and pitch would be, but because I have a large selection of used bolts on hand I found the correct ones. Maybe someone will chime in with that info. Any way you can get them at any hardware store for about a dollar each at most.

Next.......... as far as the socket that is required to remove the steering wheel nut................make it for $3.
I made mine from a $2, Made In Taiwan, 7/8" six point socket, 1/2" drive and 15 minutes with a die grinder (cutting wheel for die grinder $1, ie. the $3 total is arrved at..... $2 socket + $1 cutting wheel = $3)......Here is a pix. The fabrication isn't pretty, but the results are fine, and will save you $80+ for the Baum socket and $100 to OWN the puller. If your pulling off TR steering wheels on a daily basis, yeah buy the socket and puller. But hey for $3 you now have the socket and "borrow" a puller, that leaves you $173 dollars to buy a stainless steel heat shield or an aluminum spoiler skid plate for your TR from...............ME.........Hope this is helpful...............Kerry
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I surrender, I'm going to take it in for a professional to fix this and my AC. If I would have had the right tools, I would have gone further into the horn problem. Without the proper tools I felt I could screw up the hub and get even deeper into the problem. I am going to attempt to install a complete Stebro "off road" exhaust from the precats back, and I'll let you know how this goes. I think the system comes out through the bottom, but if this is wrong let me know. I really appreciated all your help. Thanks Ron

 

Greetings.. I have a full Stebro set up on my TR and it is going to install from the bottom. It may give you some problems with fitment and make sure you specify with Dan at Stebro that:

1. He includes new donut gaskets
2. (Most Important) that he sleeves the cat test pipes for proper gasket seating otherwise you are in for a fun fun day..

R