Hi Chaps, I was wondering what lights should come on when I start the car? I get the ABS and Handbrake lights only. The reason I ask is that the car's shut down a bank of cylinders a few times recently and I've had no warning at all! Thanks, Mark
Mark; That doesn't sound right at all. I'm not sure how different a UK car would be from a USA market car, but using this diagram from the Owners Handbook, I get the following: When I turn the key on, but before I crank the engine over, I get lights #1, 2, 5, 12, 9, 11, 13, 16, and 17. I don't get lights #3 and #15 because I have the seat belt control modules unplugged. After a few seconds, lights #1, 13, 16, and 17 go out by themselves. Lights #2, 5, 12, and 11 stay on until the engine is started. Light #9 stays on until the handbrake is released. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Sounds like something is amiss. Pretty much all the lights should come on at startup (test) and go out after the engine starts unless there is a fault, or as miltonian said if the handbrake is on. Either the bulbs are burned out (or removed) or there is no power to these lights. Suggest you check your manuals - start with fuses first and go from there. Good luck.
I get exactly the same thing, just the ABS and brake lights and normally the fuel lights come on. My Slow down lights work but the cylinder bank lights have never come on and I've also lost a bank on the first minute of running, Although I'm in Leicester UK, my car came from Germany and in LHD
It's a common dirty trick to disconnect or deliberately place burned out bulbs in the check engine and slow down lights. Gets a car sold without the expense of fixing a problem. Buyer beware.
There are two large black plugs just behind your gear shift in the center console. Unplug them and the mouse motors stop.
Thanks Everyone. I'll check the fuses and then get the dash out. I think I saw a thread on here somewhere with the instructions! I bought the car from a very reputable independant in the UK, so I doubt anything was being hidden from me. Cheers Mark
My 'brake' and 'ABS' lights stay on for about 5-10 sec after the car starts...is that normal? check engine lights go out right after start up.
Yup. Normal. Our 348's have 3 ECU systems: An anti-lock brake ecu, our fuel to air ECU's, and exhaust temp ECU's. After we start our cars, the brake and fuel to air ECU's perform diagnostic system tests. If the test shows that everything checks out, then the fuel to air ECU's turn out the Check Engine Lights on our dashes, and the ABS ecu turns out the ABS and Brake lights. The time for these startup tests varies a little bit (perhaps due to analog sensors warming up).
How would I replace burned dash lights? Is it as easy to take apart the dash to get to the lights as it was to take apart the centre console? Please advise Oh Great Ferrari Guru. J
Even easier (and I'm not even the ferrari guru around here). Two phillips screws hold on your Center Gauge Pod (they are right at the bottom corners.
JD; As ND says, there are just two screws on the lower edge that hold the instrument cluster onto the dash. I happen to have mine off, as I was doing some reference work on another thread. Here's what it looks like on back. The bulbs and holders just twist right off - nothing to it. Bulb specs are in the handbook. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Wow, now that's service! Thanks for the quick emails. Two screws? I'm heading to the garage as I type! ... J
Just be careful undoing the wiring connectors. They come right off if you push in the tabs correctly. There's no need to "muscle" them off. In fact, you may be able to reach the bulbs you need to replace without pulling the entire assembly off the car. You can see the location of the two screws on the bottom of my pic.
I think we have been here before. The 'check engine' lights are NOT USED on Euro cars. The 'slow down' lights are though and if you still have cats fitted to the car you really want them to work. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Be VERY careful. The green PCB is paper thin and very fragile. The bulbs go through the PCB and when you rotate them into their sockets, they make contact with a specific region on the PCB. Mine was really natty, and a good connection could not be held... the light at the top of my speedo would flicker. Guess what I used to fix the problem? Come on brothers.... one simple guess! . Bingo! Stabilant-22A.
Miltonian, I followed your easy instructions and pulled my binacle off. I can't believe how many bulbs there are! All type 74. I counted twenty six bulbs. I'm thinking about converting them all to LED, but notice some bulbs are at 90 degree angles to the film. I'm not sure how well LEDs will work on those (along the bottom). I have found 'wide angle' 74 bulb type replacements at: http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/commerce.cgi?product=CAR&keywords=&cart_id=1476005.21418&next=50 scroll down to '74 wedge base bulb'. Anyone converted their dash to total LED? Over to the experts... J
No, the "wedge" base is a push fit. The dash lights are twist fit. With a wedge bulb you just pull it out or push it in. With a twist fit bulb or LED you twist it in or out like a screw. This might be a better fit: http://www.aceparts.co.uk/product_info.php/cPath/52/products_id/96
But these bulbs wedge/push into the socket that then twists into board. I can remove the current bulbs from their twistie sockets. These are the same bulbs in the tail light (7 bulbs) that push in. I've compared them identically. 74's, no? J
That's good to know. I would have just purcahsed the LEDs with the twist fit socket already on...but your way of using the OEM sockets with wedge type 74 LEDs seems even better. Nice job! And yes, most certainly the high mounted 3rd brake light uses Type 74 push fit wedge bulbs/LEDs.
