will this part no work? #115652 i think this switch is for the CARB cars OR will it work?
Don't see why not - we have them in stock and list it to fit ............... Image Unavailable, Please Login
Picture of switch, it has the following numbers on the hexagonal faces...... 9051 701 25/15 8519 Hope this helps. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Malcolm -- Is there something in that 115652 switch description that gives the hot-cold logic? I've had (heresay but) trustworthy IMO confirmation from two US 328 Owners (via sorting out an air injection control problem) that the US 328 water temp coolant switch is reveresed logic-wise from the US 308i switch that ria seeks as Tom indicated and showed -- or is that application list ultra-literal and is showing that that 115652 switch is NOT used on 308GTBi/GTSi USA? Can you make a room-temp (cold) open-or-closed resistance measurement of the 115652 switch if you have one in hand?
Hi Steve, Haven't got my multi-meter with me at work, so will take the switch home and report back on Monday
I just replaced my coolant switch on my '86 328. It read continuity when cold about 4 ohms, and OL (infinite resistance) when hot. So if I follow this correctly, yes the 328 is different from the 2v.
They are showing one in stock, maybe the bin is empty, I will make an inquiry from this end. Image Unavailable, Please Login
OK malcolm thanks. malcolm can you test the switch # 115652 in cace that FNA do not have the #115477 so that way we will know at what temp the #115652 will close by droping it in hot water with a multi-meter on it and if it works you will have telephone calls. thanks malcolm.
Is there a down side to jumping together the wires to stop the high reving when starting up a cold engine or is there a better way of avoiding the high revs? Thanks in advance, Walt
The "problem" with doing that is that the fuel system on your K-Jet without Lambda will still be adding a lot of extra fuel (anticipating that the cold start air valve is open) which won't help your cats longevity. How high is your cold RPM idle? You could add a "partial blockage" in the air line going from the cold start air valve to the intake system to reduce the cold RPM somewhat, but I wouldn't block it off completely (which would be the same as shorting the wires together). Ideally, you'd want to get a different version of the Bosch Warm-up regulator that would reduce the amount of fuel added when cold to correspond with whatever airflow reduction you implemented, but I think you could cheat a little on that.
I thought you would be the one with the answer Steve. My RPMs jump to about 2000 on cold start up. My concern is the inital lack of lubercation on start up. I guess if it's worked fine for all these years (1980 308GTSi) that I can live with it.......or maybe put some type of timing relay in the system so for the first 20 or 30 seconds it would idle slow then kick up to the higher RPMs. Thanks
