Featherlite 3110 open trailer + Prodigy brake controller

Perhaps it was just a "horse thing" as we wanted the closest cross beams as possible. I understand about the aluminum trailers. We have several stock trailers and flat bed that are steel - aluminum is definitely worth the extra cost. I get my aluminum trailer acid washed once a year and it looks brand new. The "Jiffy Jack" is definitely a must. It sounds from all the posts that you've got excellent advice and have just what you need. Good Luck!

Carol

 

Ah, there's no free lunch. Trust me, you're paying for all those things on top of the price of the Superwinch. But ... they also aren't going to install a winch from Harbor freight in yopur trailer. For the do it yourself type it's a harder decision.

 

Actually the opposite is true. Never unload up hill and a lot of times flat can be a pain in the ass. On a flat location you can always crank the the tongue up to get a tilt otherwise unloading is difficult. A slight grade down is preferable. It's really a very simple concept. Let gravity and your winch do the work for you. Once you're clear and able to enter the vehicle set the parking brake or chocks and disconnect the winch. Too steep a grade and none are both problems. You also need to have the ground and trailer level left to right. Carry some 2x12 10 or 12ft planks and bricks for odd situations. They can be life savers. Enjoy towing, argh ;>)

 

I agree. You may have your hands full. Truck and auto manufactures tend ot over rate their vehicles for towing. But after one trip you should figure out if there's a problem just take easy at first.

 

Steve - just another word of caution, like what F40 said. The Ranger is simply not big/powerful/heavy enough to tow your 308 on an open trailer for any real distance. It's not just a matter of the tow rating, it's also a question of wheelbase, length, tongue weight, drag, and more. You WILL find the trailer "walking" if you exceed, say, 50 mph. At 50 mph, it's a verrrrrrrrry long tow to Watkins Glen. Especially as how you'll be lucky to be doing 25 mph at the top of the giant hill on the Pike (the highest point on Rt. 90 until you hit Washington or Oregon). And you'll have to tow the Northern route to WGI, as you'll have great difficulty with the hills on the Southern route. Sure, you can tow to NHIS, but the whole point of towing your street car to the track is to tow it a long distance (WGI, LRP, LCMT, SP, Pocono, VIR, Mid-Ohio, Mosport), and not to your backyard. Trade the ranger in on a used F250 or Chevy HD, or consider a Tahoe/Expedition/Suburban.

Bottom line - "can" you tow this? Sure. Will you "want" to do it? I doubt it....

vty,

--Dennis

 

Oh, and just to be careful, do make sure to get insurance on the trailer that covers damage to whatever is on/in it (seriously). Knock wood!

vty,

--Dennis

 

No, Steve, steel bed, but unlikely to make any difference. Combination of vehicle weight, trailer springs and (soft-ish) springs on the MDX caused the gyrations.

On the WGI trip. There's one thing worse than feeling like you are straining the tow vehicle, crawling up the hills.

Coming down.

Without enough brakes.

 

Way off topic, but it must be said. You have a stunning car. Great choice on the wheels, finish and size.

Ken

 

Steven, What size tires will you be running on the trailer? I guess a better question is what load range will you be running, C or D?

 

>BTW EVERYONE: got a PM from a friend. His friend has a 2004 Ranger and flats a 350Z (3,400 lbs versus the 308 GTS' 2900) to various track events and has no problem with hills, sway, etc. So that is good news.

Don't forget, Steve - the 350 is more nose heavy than the 308. So if you put the 308 on the trailer facing forward, you'll have less tongue weight. You may need to get the car as far forward as possible to get the right set-up. Play with it until you have the correct tongue weight. Hope you can clear the winch and tire box etc. Backing up the 308 onto the trailer is not fun, so you may definitely need a winch.

vty,

--Dennis

 

Every trailer is different but I am able to pull my 308 on facing forward. This leaves me plenty of room to move the car to adjust the tonuge weight. Unfortunately this was a trial and error process for me but now that I know where it rides best I have my rear tie down straps adjusted and just pull the car up until they tighten then tie the front end down. As I said, it was a trial and error process, what is the best way to determine the best tounge weight for the set up you have?

 

Thanks Steven.

 

Steve -
I have a custom all aluminum I'm no longer using. Pulled my 355 and Diablo with it using a V8 Explorer. All diamond plate and special 12' ramps allows to load anything without bottoming out. 24 D-Rings, winch, break-away fenders, elec brakes, soft torsion, etc etc. Want 3K for it. If any interest PM me and I'll send more pix and detials.
Best
Frank

 

pix
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Dang, Frank, that is a beautiful trailer! Too bad you're so far from New England!

vty,

--Dennis

 

I have a relatively new Featherlite 3110. It's an excellent trailer, except for the ramps, which will not accomodate low profile vehicles. I've also installed L-track, which makes securing cargo a breeze.

It tracks fine behind my Landcruiser at 60 mph, but I'm considering getting a Nissan, which has a 9000 lb tow rating.