Framing Nailer Advice

I need a framing nailer.

The Porter Cable 350A seems to be what I need, sturdy, good price:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000B3AR9/qid=1142049685/sr=1-1/ref=pd_bbs_1/102-8171071-0247367?%5Fencoding=UTF8&s=hi&v=glance&n=228013

but my brother thinks having a framing nailer that requires air is a real pain; he thinks the Paslode butane nailers are the mutt's nuts:

http://www.paslode.com/products/tool_catalog/IMCT.html

Addendum:Found this old thread:http://ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=43330&highlight=framing+nailer

I would think the butane would leak down if you only have a small job and put the nailer up with a partially used butane canister.

Suggestions??

 

Building a house?

 

Garden fences, finishing empty space.

 

I don't own a framing nailer yet, but the Porter Cable looks like a good deal. I've had good experience with a PC router and sander. I've heard and/or read that the Paslode is a bit heavier than its air-powered peers. Plus, I love tripping over air hoses - don't you? I think you may have a good point about fuel loss, too.

I have a Senco narrow crown stapler that shoots various lengths of staples. It has served me well doing a wide range of jobs from cedar fence pickets, to garden shed siding, moulding installation, cabinets, and furniture. A couple staples can do a wonderful job holding stuff together until the glue sets up.

 

What the hell kind of driveway go-kart you building?

 

I have other P-C nailers--they have worked without a hitch. I have big momma compressor--and 3 100 foot hoses--I can reach anywhere in my house and anywhere on my postage stamp lot with that setup.

The reviews in Fine Woodworking, etc. suggest that either the Paslode or the newer battery powered nailers work "almost as well" as the compressor powered variety.

Senco is generally considered top of the line.

If you already have a compressor and/or you don't have to get the nailer into any tight, remote, or unusual spaces go with compressed air. If the case is otherwise, I would consider a battery powered nailer--and use the same batteries to power a cordless drill, circular saw, etc.

Good luck.

 

Go Senco, Stanley-Bostitch, Hitachi or MAX only! I have a yellow magnesium Stanley-Bostitch that has been fantastic workhorse, and LIGHT WEIGHT! (weight is most important to how your wrists will feel at the end of the day, and that's important for the ladies.)

Do not waste your money on a Porter Cable framing nailer. Their little nailers are fine, but I had not one but TWO PC nailer literally sieze up on me after only 2 years. They're Junk IMO, I'll never buy a cheap framer again.

Home Depot has a really nice Hitachi compressor& framing nailer bundle that is the bee's knees and under $500. Get it.
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I have limited experience, but I've used the Paslode butane thingy jobber on a couple of projects at the ranch, and it's the bees knees. Much better than a loud compressor and a cord.

IIRC, we never had any problems with leakdown.

 

I've also used one when building a church and a house and they work great.

 

If you are serious about building anything you need air!!!!

 

Then beans and beer for lunch!

 

Pretty much all of my air guns are Bostich and they have been reliable.

I use what they call a utility coil nailer for framing. It's not a nimble and light as a dedicated framing gun but with the variety of lengths and types of nails I can run through it it serves me better...just an option.

I've used a Plasode finish nailer and while they are less hassle, no hoses, etc I find the air driven finish nailer is faster. When I used the plasode I was told to wait for it to "refill" the charge (there's a little noise as the the cylinder refills). I shot a couple nails before that noise was over just to see what happened and it worked but I don't know if that was good for the gun.

Overall I simply prefer the air driven guns.

 

Just remember: These are GUNS.
You don't want to find out what a 16d nail looks like when the only part of it sticking out of your wrist is the head.

 

Christ!

 

Yes, very true!

I almost shot a guy who was working for me. He was on the other side of a wall I was sheathing, I missed the stud and blew the nail through a soft spot in the sheathing.

At first I thought I'd skiped a nail (which can sometimes happen), but there was a definite hole in the plywood. Had this guy been standing about 4"-6" further to his left he would have got it right in the gut!

A good cordles drill and some torx screws is an option as well. Although I've hurt myslef with a cordless drill too.... =)

 

Drive the phillips head tip into your index finger, betcha! Sheet! I'm wounded! Where's the duct tape!

 

Yep! That's how it's done.

 

I hit a knot that bent the nail and drove it through my finger....hurt like a feyok.

 

I've got a paslode framing nailer, no problems leaving it for months with the canister in (you can always take em out) the battery drains if you leave it in, but is just a rechargable so no big deal, pretty durable and you can set the depth you want the nails finshed to (can also compensate for harder or softer timbers)

 

Another vote for Senco. Very heavy duty - metal case...a bit heavier.

You definitely need a compressor if you are doing lots of nails. Even a small 5 gallon one will do...

Once you get the aircompressor you will have to get more toys! Air chisel, Air hammer, Air wrench, cut-off wheel....

 

I have a Hitachi framing nailer, and two sencos: one for the smaller nails and one for finish work. I couldn't be happier with them. They are strong and durable.

I would reccomend them.

 

Fun With Guns:

When I was first in construction over 25 years ago I managed to nail my buddy's leg. I was standing holding the gun as he stood up and turned around from behind me and lifted his knee right in to the gun. It put it 16 p cement coated nail through his femur into his tibia and nailed the leg at a 90 degree angle. The nail sunk all the way in so that I could just barely clamp a set of vice grips on the head. No way; I couldn't even twist the nail let alone pull it out. Those cement coatings melt from friction on the way in and really work.
We picked him up as carefully as we could (figuring we would break the bones if he extended the leg some how) and put him in the back of the pickup for the ride to the hospital. They operated and the doc said he had to put a big t-clamp tool on the nail, put both of his legs up on the side of the operating table as two people held him up, and pull like he was doing a dead lift to get the nail out.

A few years later one of my crews had a guy nail his partners big toe to the subfloor, the shooter had to go into the crawl space and hammer up from below.

Experience three: Carpenter nailing a brace to a wall at head height. Wood blows out, nail shoots across room and sticks in the back of the plumbers neck just like a blow dart. Plumber was a no BS cowboy, he pulled the nail out, rubbed his neck with a grimace and didn't say a word.