K&N air filter replacement for Mondial t

Can anyone tell me if replacing the air filter (stock -> K&N) on a Mondial t involves anything more than simply opening the airbox and replacing the element? Do I need to undo/mobilize hoses, sensors, etc.? Searching fchat produces little info and this is one case where the 348 (which has info and tips galore) and the Mondial t differ in an important way.

 

The K&N approved air filter for a 1989 Mondial t 3.4L is part #33-2662. That part does not fit at all in my airbox. The stock part is a squarish rectangle; part 33-2662 is a long, thin rectangle.

Any ideas? I have a call in to my service people to get the stock factory part # so I can attempt to find the proper replacement.

 

Now THAT part looks more like it! I will yank the element again this morning and measure it.

Is it really necessary to reset the ECUs? Won't the MAF hot-wire simply get a little cooler as a result of the greater flow (we hope) and the ECU will respond dynamically?

 

Well, let's hope 33-2656 is the right part. I'm sending the old one back (unopened) to the online vendor and they will send the new one. With luck there will not be Euro vs. US issues. Interesting enough, http://www.ferrariclub.com/faq/knfilter.html notes 33-2656 is the right part.

If this works, major thanks to the fchat community. Clearly, the knowledge base here is vastly more accurate than what is available on the web.

 

Part swap complete. I opened the box and this one (part #33-2656) is looking more like it. Will install tomorrow night in the garage and report.

For the record, the vendor, Performance International, www.performanceintl.com in Costa Mesa CA was very accomodating in taking back the old filter and reordering the new one.

 

Part 33-2656 slipped right in. It's half the thickness of stock part. Is it normal for my idle to be a little lower now, like 900-950 on cold start at 52 degress?

Anyway, many thanks to the community here for identifying the RIGHT PART.

 

Is this a requirement or an optimization?

Assuming the battery disconnect switch can be found, I have read about 2 procedures on fchat:
1. Disconnect battery for 30 seconds, then reattach and go.
2. Disconnect battery for 30 seconds, then reattach. Start car but do not do anything: no throttle, no moving, no clutch, nothing, for 15 minutes. This will let the ECUs relearn the start up process (ernie)

I won't be able to do #2 before I have to take the car out on Sunday AM since I can't let it idle in an undergroung garage with a Tubi for 15 minutes. Any problems with not resetting ECUs until a later date?

 

I decided that there was enough airflow in the garage to do the reset inside. I used the big black battery disconnect knob (see other threads for the joke reference), verified that the power was off (no dome lights, no blinking radio), waited 90 seconds or so, then turned the knob back on. I went through a "touchless" start: no clutch, no throttle, etc. The car started in less than a second with a healthy sound -- and settled right into about 900 rpm idle. I let it run 18 minutes, poking around the garage looking for Noah's cars. The ending idle was 900 rpm, sounding good, and all other measure nominal. I turned off the engine, waited about a minute, then started it again. The engine caught almost immediately and settled right into 900 rpm.

If it stops sleeting and hailing (no kidding) in NYC tomorrow I'll take her out on the road. Maybe the idle will come up after driving.

 

Put 240 miles on the ol' Mondi in a whirlwind tour of CT this AM. Idle is back to a hair under 1000 and I am running slightly COOLER than before -- and today the girl saw some spirited driving. Pulling strong all the way to 7.5K.

I'd say the K&N works fine.