Do I need to pull engine to R/R mounts?

They've got to move a fair amount to get them out. I think I disconnected (+ drained) the coolant tubes too.

Test them for uniformity of compression when you pull them. And note any spacers too. I used to test the height of the bottom of the mount to the frame -- will tell you if any are collapsing.

Usually the motors leak around the studs holding the mounts into the block. You might also think about draining oils, pulling studs, cleaning threads and then using thread sealant like Permatex on the stud threads when you reassemble.

Have fun, it is not a tough job.
Philip

 

Sounds like you have a good start, Chris. I use a hydraulic ack WITH a plate or piece of wood to spread the load, and jack the motor up from underneath. The CV's should be OK, but you can check them by turning the wheel as you slowly lift to make sure.
Pulling the rears can be easier by loosening the bracket that bolts to the motor/trans, as it woill move a bit, and reduce the motor lifting needed. Make sure you keep track of the spacers and washers, as Phil mentioned. Not the worst kob to DYI, but it can be challenging.
Good luck.

 

Good info... I've been wondering this myself, but it sounds as thought I'd be better off just waiting until my next 30k.

Aaron

 

My mechanic replaced the mounts in my 328 without removing the engine. One at a time, lifting the motor with a jack and a large flat piece of wood. I tried to do it at home, but couldn't get the torque to release the lower bolt. I need to step up to air tools

 

I pulled the engine on my 308 QV and do not recall any spacers or washers between the mounts and the chassis. I assume their purpose is to level the engine. What is the procedure to determine if they are required?

 

There should have been spacers. In the front, they are conical shaped, a 2" base and just under 1" tall. The rear are washer looking, about 5/16" thick.
The bolt goes thru the center. Without them the motor isn't in the correct position, and shifting, etc, can be off.
They all seem to have the same ones, Mondy's included so I don't think that they are a measured shim type, so setting them isn't critical just have them

 

I think originally they were designed to go on with the pointy piece facing upwards. Soon after production, I believe this was changed so that they are "ice cream cone" oriented. The logic, I believe, was to ensure that should the bolt securing the engine mount to the frame fall out the motor would stay in-situ given the shallow depression in the fat end (now uppermost) of the spacer.

I remember getting mine all crossed up (hadn't paid enough attention when removing them) and had to look at the frame depressions plus talk to the chief tech at one of the dealers to understand.

Philip

 

That is a new one for mee Phillip. Makes sense in a way thhough. Iv'e never seen them with the wide part on top, and my parts manuals show it down, but that doesn't mean they are right. (we learn that one once in a while)
I see it that they are a spacer, meant to put the motor in the right plane so that the linkages clear and work properly. I would tend to think that making a spacer is easier, and lighter compared to the effort necessary to rework the rectangular tube crossmember to get the clearances they need. JMO.