512TR tach and power problem | FerrariChat
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512TR tach and power problem

Discussion in 'Technical Q&A' started by bubba, Mar 25, 2006.

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  1. bubba

    bubba Formula 3

    May 8, 2002
    1,025
    Hong Kong
    Full Name:
    PPPP
    #1 bubba, Mar 25, 2006
    Last Sunday, when I started the car, it sounded very low and the tachometer wasn't moving. I revved the engine, which sounded normal, but the tach still wasn't moving. After about 7-8 minutes, I slowly drove the car out and the tach still wasn't moving. The engine sounded like it was revving fine, but there's barely any power. It was accelerating like a bus. Then, all of a sudden, the car lurched and the tach was normal and power was back. The beast was alive again! I was able to drive around for most of the day without any issue.

    This issue actually happened on and off again numerous times in the past several months. Because it usually goes away after the car has really warmed up, I didn't really bother looking into it.

    That same evening, after parking it in the shopping mall for many hours, the same problem happened again! This time, however, the tach remained dead even after the engine and everything else has warmed up. The engine revved fine, but again very little power. It was more than 15 minutes after starting the car. Giving up hope, I just limped back home with the car unable to move beyond 50mph. During the drive, the tach did jump up and down a few times when I was pulling away from the stop lights, but after a few seconds of jumping it died again.

    Any idea why the car is behaving this way? It's been fairly humid here these weeks. Thanks in advance for any help!
     
  2. f355spider

    f355spider F1 World Champ
    Owner Rossa Subscribed

    May 29, 2001
    18,055
    USA
    #2 f355spider, Mar 25, 2006
    Sounds like your ignition is cutting out, and you are running on only one bank (half the engine). I would not continue to drive in this condition...you could have a cat fire...
     
  3. bubba

    bubba Formula 3

    May 8, 2002
    1,025
    Hong Kong
    Full Name:
    PPPP
    #3 bubba, Mar 26, 2006
    Hmmm...that sounds very worrying...I believe the 512TR does have warning lights for non-firing cylinders, and no warning lights came on during the drive.
     
  4. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa

    Jan 11, 2001
    26,931
    30°30'40" N 97°35'41" W (Texas)
    Full Name:
    Steve Magnusson
    #4 Steve Magnusson, Mar 26, 2006
    The other possibilty for having a bank quit running is if the fuel pump for that bank has a problem (either in the pump itself or in the electrical system running the pump -- these are high-current pumps that can easily "toast" electrical connections, and "humid" doesn't help the situation for connection troubles in any of the systems).

    You should first determine per Peter's suggestion if you do, or don't, have spark present on each bank when you have the "problem" occur. This will tell you whether to focus on the ignition system or the fuel system (but the "no tach" symptom does indicate trouble with the ignition).
     
  5. LVG

    LVG Rookie

    May 3, 2005
    26
    Norway
    #5 LVG, Mar 30, 2006
    Follow the ignition lead, but if it turns it is not the ignition you should check the pins in the 4 flat connectors in the fusebox. The one you should pay attention to is the bottom connector on the drivers side (LHD-cars). Check if the pins in the connector have overheated and therefore been deformed by the heat. This may lead to no connection for the wire(s) to the fuelpumps. (2 brown wires, in positions 5 and 6 I believe, although I do not have the wiring diagram in front of me). If the pins are bent I suggest you replace them, but as an intermediary remedy you can try to gently push the female pins together, which should facilitate better connection.

    If the connectors are actually burnt, you should also take time to remove the fusebox and have a look inside it, as the heat may have damaged the fusebox itself.

    Both the connectors, as well as the fusebox are easy to remove, but remember to turn off the main electricity switch from the battery first...

    Lars
     

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