308 timing marks

The stock timing marks can be a bit unhandy to work with to say the least. OK for some, but there are those who like to change advance settings as well as the advance curves. Not an easy thing with the flywheel marks, not to mention having to pull the cover plate, etc.
While I was dialing in a set of cams today, I took the time to add a pointer mounted to the bottom water pump stud, and while the degree wheel was mounted, transferred some marks to the balancer.
The pointer is an easy project, just some flat sheet metal drilled (1/4” ) and bent. Best to use at least 18 gauge, as thinner metal will probably vibrate and crack. Not a good thought with the belts right there.
The measurements I took after doing the layout was 1..484” from the zero mark, to the 30 degree mark. That is so close to 1.5 or 1 ½ inch. I would call it good. That means, the 10 degree is ½” and the 20 degree should be 1”. Mount the pointer, and with a center punch, put a row of marks where the zero, or TDC will be. I used a small chisel, and center punch to do the rest of the layout. The long lines being the even, 10,20,30, and the single dots in between are the 5’s , 5,15, etc. A small ball peen hammer works great here, as you are pounding on the crank end, so an eight pound sledge isn’t the right choice for obvious reasons.
Now I can easily check advance with a timing light, and not worry about dropping the cover mounting nuts into the clutch.
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That could easily be done Chris. I chose that particular place as it was easy to get to, and did not require any drilling etc. If you have to change the pump, just relocate the pointer, based on the flywheel PM1-4 mark and you are back in business. In reality, the marks may be a degree off, perhaps even two depending on the skills of the DYI. But then timing is a factor of so many other variables, no two motors wil get the best results with the same base settings and curves. Different cams, compression ratios will make a lot of differance in how a motor responds to timing changes. This trick allows a DYI to find the settings that his Ferrari runs best at. Changes in fuel, etc can be much more easily dealt with, compared to the OEM method. Newer ignitions with electronically adjustable advance will be damn near fun with this, as you wont even get dirty. Being able to know just what the ignition curve is doing at a particular setting would be handy at times. I know dyno setting the ignition could sure be easier with this method, as opposed to working over a hot motor. Quite franky, the stock flywheel marks leave a bit to be desired for hi performance use. They were designed to set factory specs.

 

Timing lights that dial in the total advance are a very handy one to have. I haven't used one in years, so they may have changed. When I used one, it worked on total advance, or initial, depending on the setting, but I didn't feel it illustrated the curve as the motors RPM increased as well as a dampner reading did.
All that aside, I still think this is a more convienent mwethod of setting the timing, as it allows easier access, and is degreed, which assists with advance curve workup. I note that aftermarket balancers often are degreed around the entire unit, but I would not use one for cam wqork or any serious mechanical set ups, as they are far too small. Good for timing however. That is of course the reason I did the one in only the markings necessary to tune the ignition.
Personally I find the factory PM 1-4 type marking somewhat limiting in setting a curve.

 

That's pretty much how I see it Bret. Every motor has it's own "best setting", which may be close but not exactly like another one. Tuners spend hours of dyno time developing an engines output.
The size of the timing marks diameter is not that critical, providing it is usable of course. You are comparing your own settings to each other. If the balancer was 2 degrees off, it really would not hurt a thing. The degrees of advance that worked the best could be noted, and the number is not the important thing. It is a referance point for other adjustments in the future.
I did this as a way of helping. The car will be leaving, and as it will be many miles away, I may never see it. But no matter where it goes, a mechanic with a basic amount of training can tune it, as this is the same way that it was done for many years. I can see it would be a great help in a case where either the owner does not live close to a Ferrari shop with trained people, or in traveling . If the grade of fuel should change enough to start problems while out of town, it can easily be fixed.
This method isn't going to replace a talented experienced Ferrari tuners work, as it only does so much. But for the average guy, with a minimum amount of tools it will certainly work well.

 

Digital...Hum, sounds like a neat idea. With all of the ignition items that are digital, why not. I would think the technology would be similar.
The tape is a good idea. If a 6" could be found, it would be closer to the balancers 5.555" diameter. For that matter, any good adhestive strip that is marked in 1/4" increments would be very close to right on. Doesn't matter what it came from, as long as it is a good quality. Anybody?

 

Good find Verell! It isn't going to get much easier than this now. Glad it worked out this way. It will save a lot of time over the years for some. Not to mention the cars will tend to be tuned more regularly I would think. I know I can think of at least one time that I didn't get out the timing light, as I was thinking about that hole. I was always concerned that one of those nuts would surely drop down into the clutch. That is the way it goes sometimes.
Interesting that a motor had a smaller (barely) diameter balancer. I would think if a balancer tape were offered for it, they must be modifying them. Which Motor?