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Fixing, Improving & Updating Kerry's '87 TR

Discussion in 'Technical Q&A' started by kerrywittig, Mar 23, 2006.

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  1. kerrywittig

    kerrywittig Formula 3
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    #26 kerrywittig, Mar 26, 2006
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    Hopefully straight pipes and "tiny" resonators will end up on the car and therefore...............Sound deadening becomes "null and void"......LOL
    Kerry
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  2. barabus

    barabus F1 Rookie

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    #27 barabus, Mar 26, 2006
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    They look nice mate, I stuck this on my Testa and with a K&N kicks out 115 decibels:D
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  3. kerrywittig

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  4. kerrywittig

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    #29 kerrywittig, Mar 26, 2006
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    Removal of TR front spoiler?

    --------------------------------------------------------------------------

    Anyone have any insight into what is the way to remove the front spoiler on an 87 TR to refinish and repair damage?
    Are there any "tricks" or short cuts to making the removal easy? In particular there are 2 bolts/studs, one located on each side that are unreachable (about 15"s forward of each front wheel well opening).


    I figured it out........Here is "the way" I found was easiest.
    First remove the center bolt (10mm) in the center under the hood.
    At that point, crank the steer tires to the inside (drivers side to passenger and visa versa)
    Next remove the enclosure panels in the front of the wheel wells 5 to six bolts (10mm). With these panels removed you gain access to the 10mm nut that is located about 3" inside the fender. JUST loosen it 2 or 3 turns.
    Now remove the yellow parking/turn lens with a philips screwdriver. You then take a regular straight blade screwdriver and remove the 2 screws and take out the light assembly, unplug the electrics and set aside. This now gives you "access" to the 10mm nut that is located about 15" in front of the wheel well opening. Again JUST loosen 2-3 turns.
    You then remove any philips head screws (thats what was holding the aluminum belly pan covers on mine) or rivets from the front bottom edge of the spoiler.
    Now the spoiler should be pulled forward and there ya go.
    I suggest that when replacing any of the panels or the spoiler itself that you use new stainless steel bolts/nuts/washers/screws and anti-sieze. Also here is your opportunity to clean any debris out of the AC condenser and clean and detail areas that NO ONE will ever see.........but you will know are clean, tidy and correct!

    Hope this is helpful to others. Kerry

    --------------------------------------------------------------------------

    Ok here are the results of refinishing the spoiler and fabbing a "skidplate"! The spoiler itself was smoothed of chips and damage and then I sprayed it with Line-X truck bed coating and the results are excellent. Some of the advantages of the Line-x are as follows: First the finish very much resembles the factory finish. Second it will NOT chip off. Third I coated all surfaces top/bottom/sides /back, which resulted in making the "delicate" fiberglass somewhat indestructable.

    Lastly I fabricated a one piece "skid plate" that attaches to the lower lip of the spoiler out of 1/8" aluminum and will serve as a psuedo "curb feeler"! It will take the brunt of a driveway entrance before the spoiler and actually give an "audible" that clearance is about to become an issue. It is easily replaceable and is not unsightly.

    So if anyone is interested in acquiring this skidplate I can reproduce for a cost of $180 USD. 3 days and I can have it on the way..........Any interest?

    --------------------------------------------------------------------------

    Well the spoiler is back in place and the skid plate attached (9 points of attachment to the spoiler, with stainless steel metal screws that are all countersunk into the skid plate...........very clean appearance!! Came out great........very pleased!

    NOTE: When removing, as well as re-attaching the spoiler, get a 10mm short ratchet type wrench. It makes the whole process fairly painless.

    Another thing that I have discovered, is that with the spoiler Line-X'ed you can beat the hell out of it with a rubber mallet and not destroy it or marr it at all. I had to do this in order to get the back edges to line up with the wheel well openings. the Line-X made the spoiler a little tighter of a fit (Line-X added just a hair to the "dimensions").

    I feel very confident that spoiler damage will be a thing of the past with the Line-X and skidplate.
    --------------------------------------------------------------------------

    Update: The skidplate has done it's job on a few occasions and has performed flawlessly. No spoiler damage and the skidplate itself seem to shun of the abrasion caused by the asphalt with no problem. Very glad I took the time and effort to fabricate it and install.........It's on more ten one ossassion save the aesthetics of the TR, down time to repair and dollars as well. Kerry
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  5. kerrywittig

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    #30 kerrywittig, Mar 26, 2006
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  6. kerrywittig

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  7. kerrywittig

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    #32 kerrywittig, Mar 27, 2006
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    STEERING WHEEL REMOVAL:

    Here is some info of an "economical" way that you can use to remove the steering wheel hub and nut from your TR and possibly other F-Cars. I just did this 4 days ago................

    First, if you need a puller to remove the wheel, call or visit your local Advanced Auto Parts store, http://advanceauto.know-where.com/advance-auto-parts/ (AutoZone and others probably have the same item) and "borrow" it for a $22 deposit, which they refund when you return it or you can keep the puller and you now own a puller for $22, the appropriate puller, which comes in an attractive protective plastic storage case with a variety of bolts and fixtures. It is part #648645 and/or Kit #14. It is the proper puller with one draw back..............It does not have the appropriate bolts with the proper thread pitch that you will need. I do NOT know what the correct size and pitch would be, but because I have a large selection of used bolts on hand I found the correct ones. Maybe someone will chime in with that info. Any way you can get them at any hardware store for about a dollar each at most.

    Next.......... as far as the socket that is required to remove the steering wheel nut................make it for $3.
    I made mine from a $2, Made In Taiwan, 7/8" six point socket, 1/2" drive and 15 minutes with a die grinder (cutting wheel for die grinder $1, ie. the $3 total is arrved at..... $2 socket + $1 cutting wheel = $3)......Here is a pix. The fabrication isn't pretty, but the results are fine, and will save you $80 for the Baum socket and $100 to OWN the puller. If your pulling off TR steering wheels on a daily basis, yeah buy the socket and puller. But hey for $3 you now have the socket and "borrow" a puller, that leaves you $173 dollars to buy a stainless steel heat shield or an aluminum spoiler skid plate for your TR from...............ME.........Hope this is helpful...............Kerry
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  8. kerrywittig

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    #33 kerrywittig, Mar 27, 2006
    INTERIOR UPGRADE AND REFURBISH $COSTS$.......so far!

    Sound deadening material.........$78....3 sheets 5' X 5'
    Hard Card foam.......................$81....4 sheets 2' X 9'
    Carpet.................................$504....14 sq. yards

    Labor.................................$1150....$50 X 23 hours
    remove/clean/repaint/weld/remove un-needed brackets/install sound deadening material on floors,kick panels & insise of doors/re-route wiring

    SUB TOTAL..........................$1813

    To Do List:
    Cut & Install foam
    Cut, surge and/or bind edges of carpet, install carpet, re-install interior

    It's starting to look like (or should I say, starting to cost like) I may have been better off having an interior shop do this!..............Kerry
     
  9. kerrywittig

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    #34 kerrywittig, Mar 28, 2006
    Took the TR out for a stroll today.............sound deadening install has dropped the road noise level by 18 db...............Now realize, that is with one seat bolted in, no foam and no carpet. The flat 12 still singings loud and clear, and in fact is an even better audible sensory stimulant than before. With the road noise out of the picture, the engine gets the lead vocal now with no "ambient" interference..............I like the song, I give it a 9, the flat 12 has got a great beat and Godd*mn it's easy to dance too (with) Mr Clark!! Kerry
     
  10. kerrywittig

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    #35 kerrywittig, Apr 5, 2006
    Foam and carpet have arrived and will start installing with Pix...............should be able to update this weekend.............Kerry
     
  11. kerrywittig

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  12. F1Ace

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    #37 F1Ace, Apr 8, 2006
    Kerry...YOU RULE!!!

    Careful now...whatever you do, you know, ChiaroSlag will be compelled to do as well. ;)

    Wes
     
  13. Chiaro_Slag

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    #38 Chiaro_Slag, Apr 8, 2006
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  14. dm_n_stuff

    dm_n_stuff Four Time F1 World Champ
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    #39 dm_n_stuff, Apr 8, 2006
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    Same as the Dino part, I think. $15 each from Superformance. I may have a pair sitting around, too.

    http://www.superformance.co.uk/246/246igne.htm

    'bout half way down the page.

    DM
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  15. kerrywittig

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    #40 kerrywittig, Apr 9, 2006
    Chiaro............Yeah I plan on having them stripped and redone..........I don't care for the Ferrari logo stitched into them. But first I am trying to find out if the headrests were originally black or the "salmon red" that the door panels and center sections of the seats are. Anybody have any insight or a way I might track down this info? Kerry
     
  16. carguy

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    #41 carguy, Apr 9, 2006
    Good question.....but being as that interior combination was ordered special there is no "standard" rule of thumb to go by. I would maybe try and find some pics or info. on other "special order" interiors on TRs and see what their headrest treatment was. I recall a really "unusual....alright...ugly" dark blue/light blue interior on a TR where the headrests were the same as the side bolsters. So that would suggest that your headrests should be black....but who knows. It would be nice to find some actual production records or something. I do have an idea, if you are a member of the Ferrari Owners Club you can send them your vin number, Ferrari may let you know what color combinations were ordered on your car. It may take a few weeks but it's worth a try. So check out the Ferrari Owner's site.

    https://www.owners.ferrari.com/cgi-bin/Feros/os/jsp/01_0_login.jsp?sessioneScaduta=1

    And by the way, I agree with some other's here who have said "you da man". That car definately has a good home. As for me and mine, I'm up to my elbows trying to get my engine bay to look as nice as yours :) Even took a whole week off work to do the major service. My better half says she's a Ferrari-Widow right now. I should have it done in a week or two, if my hands and fingers stay attached that is...lots of solvents, wire brushes, skinned knuckles, and shedding of blood.

    How is that big, bad, mean off-rock climber coming along?
     
  17. kerrywittig

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    #42 kerrywittig, Apr 10, 2006
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    Thanks for the info Jeff, I hope to be getting the 12 out of this shortly to address the front seal leak.

    As for the rock crawler............I hope to see it in action this month but with so much going on it may br May or even June........Here is an updated pix....
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  18. kerrywittig

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    #43 kerrywittig, May 2, 2006
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    Well..........it's been a while since I have posted any "worthwhile" info, so here's an update...................

    Interior pieces that I felt I would be better off letting a "pro" do are still at the "pro" 3 weeks later...................maybe have the interior back together by weeks end.

    Had the wheels, front and rear aligned today and found it to be a rewarding experience............Filled the fuel tank and sat in the drivers seat for the duration and got a TR back that steers much better, tracks a bit to the right and so will replace the front tires with new and see if this corrects the "drifting" and the slight vibration that has appeared at the 92 mph level. I have been assured this will all be corrected by putting on the new tires. This TR ran fairly vibration free up to 151 mph previous to the alignment. Next week I will rebalance all tires and wheels as suggested by my guy after 1K - 2K miles and then again after a couple K more. Today we removed quite a few shims to get it aligned properly. Heres a pix of what was left behind.........6 1/8" shims removed from various corners of the TR and got a quarter back in change from 3 $20's to use as a comparison to show the shims with a reference.............Kerry is a happy boy.................See Ya'!!
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  19. curtisc63

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    #44 curtisc63, May 2, 2006
    Good to see you have not given up on keeping us informed on your progress. I was wondering what happened to you and your TR.

    By the way, what tires are you going to go with?

    CC
     
  20. mustardfj40

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    #45 mustardfj40, May 3, 2006
    I like the wheel/tire combo on your cruiser. Sweet!
     
  21. kerrywittig

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    #46 kerrywittig, May 3, 2006
    Kumho .....................same as the ones on it. Ordered 2 sets, seeing that it's only $304 per set of 4 at tirerack how can I go wrong, a "spare" set on hand........I'll let you know the "results"! By the way the interior people called today with apologise and hopefully I can post pick of the "completed" interior by this weekend.................
    Kerry
     
  22. kerrywittig

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    #47 kerrywittig, May 9, 2006
    Well the interior has been reinstalled and I could not be happier............The engine sound is now NOT impeded by the road noise that found it's way into the interior previously. The new dead peadal and accelerator "scuff shield" are very nice and overall the results are great....................Next is to 1.... try and figure out how to get the HVAC fan control to work properly.......2.......... pull the engine to stop the oil leak at the crank seal........and lastly 3........... to strip the paint and start over (in the fall of 2006 I hope)...............Oh yeah bought 2 sets of Kumho tires and need to mount up a new set with the load balancing and see what the final results are............By the way I am looking for a second set of wheels......single nut/OEM...any condition cosmetically (no bent wheels please)..............Kerry

    PS I will post pix of "new" dead pedal and scuff plate in place................
     
  23. kerrywittig

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    #48 kerrywittig, May 9, 2006
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    There is an article coming out in an offroad magazine entitled, "Beauty and the Beast" comparing the 400 HP TR and the 450 HP rockcrawler, as well as costs, wheelbase, torque, clearences, ammenities, etc.. I will post article and/or the link when it "appears"!!
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  24. kerrywittig

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    #49 kerrywittig, May 14, 2006
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    Well here are a few updates................
    First I have finally gotten the interior "completely" installed and what an amazing difference a bit of sound deading has made.........Overall about a 20 db difference. I know there was concern by some that flat 12 music might get left behind........quite the contrary, the engines song no longer is fighting the road noise. The TR is now even more of a pleasure to drive, especially when a passenger is present and one can now actually have a conversation.

    The pix displayed are of the new dead pedal and accelerator scuff shield installed.........only item left to do now is to fabricate an aluminum or stainless accelerator pedal housing and chuck the plastic OEM one.

    Next on my list of thigs to do was to adjust the emergency brake pads in each rear rotor.......but.......I got distracted when I noticed that of the 17 spring loaded bolts that hold all the piping together, 5 were missing and the majority were loose. So after fabicating some new springs and now "double nutting" all of the bolts I found that I needed to replace a couple of the gaskets that were burned quite badly and leaking from the missing hardware. I went to the local NAPA and scored the "donuts" for a meer $3 each, part # F17250 and have included a pix of that item so that others may have the part # for future reference.

    Blower motor still is full off or on and I can't figure it out even with all the help Steve M. has supplied........no voltages at the transistor connection points at this time so time to take a rest.............

    And as metioned in a previous post.......time to start getting into a frame of mind to pull the engine and rebuild it so that I am not depleting the worlds oil reserves....this TR has some major leaks and the best resolution I think is to get it out and tear it down and get the assembly together with fresh seals and get it all in spec.........By the way if anyone has a line on a TR engine that is freshly rebuilt and or low mileage, that may be the way to go, something in the $10-$15K area........trade in an engine and freshen the original and then reinstall. Or maybe more economical would be to drop out the engine and gut the body and send it to body and paint while the engine and drivetrain are being R&R'd!

    Great car, drives wonderful, very fast and now finally smooth with new tires, load balancing and alignment........amazing difference what a few simple things will do to the overall handling and feel of the TR.
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  25. kerrywittig

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    #50 kerrywittig, May 31, 2006
    Strange thing happened on the way to.......................

    For the past few days I have had a large project going on in my garage and so therefore the TR was moved out to the driveway (75 feet) and then returned to it's shelter hours later for the evening.

    What took place I am "assuming" may have been a "smart" TR computer?!?!?..... warning me that things didn't look right????.................

    Here goes................

    I moved the vehicle probably 6-8 times over a 2 or 3 day period and DID NOT let it have it's usual 10-15 minute warm up. I just jumped in, started, moved it in/out of the garage (and the car hated it, I might add) and stopped.........1 minute at most.

    So on the 4th day I went to start it and only got a clicking sound (starter not engaging, no horn, wipers, lights, just a dim set of warning lights, and signal directional indicators on the dash pod both glowing.) New battery (2 months), connections proper, battery is up to full power but, charged battery just in case over night. Metered voltage @ battery 14.1 volts, everything is good with plenty of available power and ALL connections are fine and metered..................still no start, just clicking and strange relay noises from under the dash.

    I remove the positive cable from the battery for 15 minutes.......reconnect (thought this might clear the computer)................and TR starts right up and runs perfectly and has ever since. I have decided that I will ALWAYS do a proper warm up and just be patient!!

    Question and/or thought is that the TR's computer/brain was saying over the course of a few days of hurried cold drives that, "Hey something is not right here, I am not getting to read and/or analyze the situation and parameters so I'm not going to start until the "problem" is resolved!".........

    Am I delusional, wishful, reading way to much into this, or just lucky that for some reason, by coincidence that it was sorted out by some wire being "wiggled" inadvertently while fumbling about the car.................Kerry
     
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