Just Got my 355 F1 and the Check Engine Light Went On!

Go back and re-read my post again.

It says that if the car failed smog (enough said you with me) and you beleive the cats are bad then:

The FNA dealer will test the down stream O2 sensor to see if it is sweeping. You know what that means right?

He might get a 1 hour diagnostic charge and if the cats are bad based on the testing, then he has basis to have them replaced under warranty.

No more encryptic codes to be taken literally: To the OP just PM me and I will walk you through it.

This is all based on personal expereince dealing with FNA. I am batting 1,000.

Nuff said.No more "wink wink" on a public forum.

 

Lachelt is right! Hyperflows sound soooo sweet with a Tubi, and even with a stock muffler. The look of these cats are amazing as well! Take this into consisderation if you are replacing them...

 

I bought a 1999 355 Spyder two weeks ago. On my trip home (from San Diego to Phoenix) the engine light came on. I had my mechanic pull the code P1128. The mechanic said he couldn't pinpoint the exact problem because his software didn't have some special "Ferrari Software". My mechanic told me to see the dealer.

It took a week to get in, but they determined it was two (2) bad cats. I told the dealer that was "good" and they thought I was crazy. They said EACH cat was $4,100 plus 3.6 hours labor total, about $9,000.

I informed the dealer about the 8Yr / 80K mile Emissions Warranty. After some checking the dealer was embarressed to admit they didn't think of the warranty first.

FNA approved the claim, the repairs were completed and so far so good!

 

I've had several cars that take 100-plus miles for the CEL to come back on after resetting/disconnecting. My guess, which may not be correct and is a big assumption, is that they knew the CEL was a problem and reset it before delivering it to you. It could be $10k to chase it down in diagnostic and "parts replacement therapy" so why invest that in the car before selling it?

 

Correct, it is called Drive Cycle. After the CEL is reset the 2 continous sensors begin monitoring immediatley, the other sensors need to see a specific set of conditions to monitor. Next the OBDII will take any pending code and store that code but it will not illuminate the CEL until it sees the code 2 more times (in most instances).

So in short, yes it could take hundreds of miles under various driving conditions, with cold and warm starts to complete a drive cycle with all systems completing their check.

There is a way to FORCE a drive cycle but after review it is both laborious and requires a huge amount of open highway, cruising speeds down to 15-20 mph, 1/2 throttle acceleration, etc, etc, etc.

 

I could not agree more!

The trick is you have to know how to talk the language, and tell them what is up.

Regarding their "mistake", I don't fully buy that they did not have clue that it was under warranty. That seems silly on their part. 355's come in, in droves with the same problem and they don't know if it is under warranty?

I have had to put the clamps to FNA and so far I am batting 1,000.

 

I just bought a 1997 355 spyder with 31k miles. The valve guides, belts, seals and cats (hyperflow) etc. were all replaced. I too just got a check engine light. So like cruisin9 I also bought a 3100 code reader and pulled the codes. Though I forgot to bring them to work to post.
On another note I was wondering since it is my understanding that the headers are insulated with fiberglass then metal shielded. When the headers do go bad is it possible that fiberglass can find its way to the cats and clog them??
Does it make sense to pull the shields off and ceramic coat the headers?
Does anyone make aftermarket headers for these cars?
Other than the CEL I love the car! I had a 1997 Porsche 993 Twin Turbo that was way faster, handled better and stopped better with no CEL problems the 40K miles I owned it.
But this is my first Ferrari and the fun/chick factor is far better than in my Porsche. Not to mention the awesome F1 sound.
I have printed this whole thread to compare cruisin9's codes with mine when I get home.
I am glad that there is some Ferrari knowledge available. So I will be posting some codes for some feedback soon.
I think I was bidding against cruisin9 on some 355's on ebay...

 

Hey that is great that the dealer replaces bad cats, but don't they just install the same type cats that went bad to begin with?? So eventually the owner of the car will have to pay out of pocket when the warranty is up right?

 

I just sold my 95 355 this week (Red/tan, Tubi, Hyperflows). The buyer drove it home from NorCal to San Diego. No problems -- he reports that the car ran terrific, as I would expect. But here's my point: I did not sell the car through a dealer or any other consignment deal. I spent the day with the buyer talking about the car, going over records, and getting a PPI done at the SiliVali Ferrari dealership. Prior to this, I gave the buyer full access to talk to the mechanic who has maintained my car. The bottom line is that the buyer bought the car directly from me and ultimately had to make an assessment of whether I was selling him something he could trust. He knows me now, he understands everything I went through on the car. In fact, he told me he read every single post I ever put on F-Chat and that he gained some comfort knowing that my honest experience with the car was exposed for all to see. Of course, that doesn't preclude something going wrong and it is still an "as is" sale, but with a consignment car you dont get that ability to make a personal judgement. The dealer is conflicted and wants to move the car. The seller is removed from the deal and never has to look you in the eye and answer probing questions honestly. Codes can be re-set and the dealer won't know and can, at a minimum, claim ignorance.

For those who ever followed my buying experience from a couple of years ago, you'll know why I believe one should strongly consider buying these cars directly from an individual, the best being a first or second owner, rather than from a broker, dealer, or consignment shop. I know that from a seller's standpoint, I chose to sell the car directly because I knew I could look anyone in the eye and tell them all the good and all the bad and let them make an informed decision (that being said, selling a car yourself does require separating the real buyers from the tire-kickers). If I had been interested in obfuscating facts, I'm fairly certain I would have just traded it in or put it up on consignment.

This is likely my last FChat post for awhile, so that is why I'm going on here late in the day, but I loved my 355 and already miss it (I will own another Ferrari in the future but am making room for another car right now). The buyer was a great guy and some of you may be lucky enough to get to know him here via F-Chat or elsewhere on the road. I wish him good luck and expect we'll talk again in the future.

And btw, Cruisin9, I think you bid exactly $400 under my reserve on EBay!

 

After reading all the posts on this thread I feel I may have something to contribute, especially since I had the same experience with the same codes you had (and had brand new cats on my car). If you find that it is not the cats, which you may take the car to a reputable independent and have him check the voltage at the 02 connectors. This was done on my car and after the replacement of one 02 and tracking down a short the car has been perfect ever since. Inexpensive fix and nothing worth getting fired up about!

Enjoy the car.

Marc

 

Okay lets see if I can get through all of this....

First:
Codes are set because a sensor or sensors, monitored by the computer, was/were out of some pre-set range for a period of time.
Not all codes set the check engine light. The check engine light may go off if the conditions that set it do not re-occur for a pre-set amount of key cycles (or run cycles).
There is no way of knowing if the codes were old (pending) or new.
Sometimes the pre-set limits are too tight, and the code will always set until the ECM is reprogrammed.
Second:
OBD-2 cars must go through the drive-cycle (known as the IM readiness tests) to pass smog tests in California, unless they have been given exemption (due to an irregular amount of failures to complete the IM tests).
The test machines will check if the cel (check engine light) is on, but not if codes are stored in the ECM. They will check the IM readiness status.
Third:
New parts do not guarantee correct function.
Therefore:
The car passed smog, (imo legitimately). Clearing the codes will also reset the readiness tests, so that it must go throught the complete cycle before it will pass the smog test. There is a problem that is causing the car to run lean. Unless it is misfiring, a lean car is a clean car.
From code p1128, I would suspect a broken or cracked vacuum line to the MAP sensor. I can't remember if the 355 even has a MAP sensor. This lean condition would cause codes p0422 and p0432. So would bad Cats. Catalyst efficiency is measured from the response of the post Cat O2 sensor(s). So bad O2 sensors would set these codes also.
From code p0153, I would suspect that the O2 sensor is defective, specifically the heater in the O2 sensor is not working, and during the long idling period it cools off and its reponse slows down. O2 sensors are ceramic, brittle-easily damaged by fumbly fingers or careless handling.
As for what to do- your on your own.
If I were you, I would clear the codes, drive the car, recheck if the cel returned, and focus my complaints (with the dealer or seller) on the codes that came back and what they intimate to.
Hope I am being helpful.

E

 

Gents,

Good thread. I have 2 codes after the service shop repaired the headers (yes I will replace the headers). Heard the tell tale sines of exhaust leak (tick, tick,tick).

Prior to header repairs (welding of the old headers) My CEL was a 152, yep lead O2 sensor, easy peasy. After repairs, 422 and 432. Sounds like gaskets from what I read. The exhaust also sounds "like Cat material floating in the silencer" even before the repairs, so a per-existing condition.

Logical approach sounds like confirming the exhaust is tight, then, and shake out the silencer. Thoughts from my brothers? Thanks,

Boaf

 

Clear the codes for crying out loud and see if they repeat themselves along with the CEL then TROUBLESHOOT.

 

Cleared already, we'll see what happens, but had them before and they came back. Maybe 2nd time is the charm.

 

Bob - I assume you mean codes: P0422 and P0432? (it's always best to spell out the complete codes...)

If those are the codes, they are Cat Efficiency codes. It's time to remove the muffler and have a visual look into the CAT's to see if they are broken apart which I suspect is the case.
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Thanks Dave. Yep will do that as soon as I get the car back to PA and my garage. I will hopefully get there in the next 2 months.

 

It's advisable to not drive the car in this condition.

 

Damn reserected from the dead, I was replying to the op from 2006 daym, post up you own thread about your issues.