Cold Start Valve Not Firing

Hi Cliff,

[I'm presuming you're testing properly as power to CSI only lasts < 2 sec so won't be continuous]

Can you confirm power "in" to the TTS during cranking? It's a challenge to access under the plenum.

Carl

 

The CSV should always have 12v to it. It's the ground side of the CSV that is switched by the Thermotime switch. Do you have the wiring diagram?

 

ooops - sorry. Mr. Jones is on the case - I'll bow out now.

Did quick search to atone, here's a few links:

http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=98634&highlight=cold+start+injector

http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=35496&highlight=cold+start+injector

http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=37647&highlight=cold+start+injector

Best,


Carl

 

One warning (IIRC) is that not all of the CSI + thermo-time switch systems used on the Bosch CIS-equipped F are exactly the same -- similar enough to be brothers, but not necessarily maternal twins.

Cliff -- If you don't have the exact wiring diagram for your year/version 328, download the '89 328 wiring diagram .pdf file from Steve Jenkin's F site (I believe that all the 328 are the same with regard to the CSI + thermo-time switch stuff).

Do you know if the CSI is firing correctly during cold-running when you blip the throttle?

 

Have you confirmed your Auxilary Air Valve is functioning as well? Low idle speed when first starting cold should have an idle more like 1500 rpm....

 

Cliff have you verified that the coolant temp switch is working (i.e., cold = closed and warm = open)?

A dead CSI is going to make cold light-off sluggish (i.e., maybe a lot of extra starter cranking), but it's not involved in what determines the average cold RPM.

The only way the injection ECU "knows" things are "cold" (and, therefore, to add enrichment via the FV) is if the coolant temp switch is working -- just a thought of something at the start of the inj. food chain to confirm/deny...

 

Apologies in advance if this is grasping but I was having the exact start up problem and suspected the CSV. My mechanic and I tinkered with the mixture checked some other things, but didn't really come up with anything conclusive.

Then my car wouldn't start and I discovered the dreaded burn out at the #3 and #4 pin in the 10-pin connector at the right side of the fuse panel. I made the repairs. Low and be hold, the car cold starts just as good as I can remember prior to the cold start problems. It revs up cold and revs down when warm in about 5 mins.

Perhpas the inconsistent electrical contact sent erroneus signals to the "brain". Just a thought...

Al

 

Cliff -- Al's post prompts me to also ask you if your frequency valve is buzzing/vibrating when the engine is running. One of the "problems" for K-Jet with Lambda systems is that if the electrics are totally dead (bad connection, bad protection relay -- i.e., no +12V to run the system) the system can still be tweaked-up to run fairly decent (as a K-Jet without Lambda system) when warm, but cold-running & cold-starting will be poor (just another thought since the +12V power to run the CSI also runs the whole injection system).