My 348 engine out procedure with pics

Right about now, is a good time for a cigarette break.




(ok, sorry to interrupt.... back you our regularly scheduled programming)

 

I then loosened the coolant hoses located near the firewall of the car...Very easy to get to with the decklid off...I can't get them off though, any suggestions? I was thinking about waiting until I get to the point were the subframe is separating its self from the car...I figured it would be a lot easier to pry them off at that point.
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That upper hose seems quite swollen. Is it just the picture?

 

Last thing I did on Day 2 was remove the lines to the charcoal canister and then detach the throttle cable...The cable can removed easily if you press down on the throttle levers..there is a bracket that also holds it near the firewall..It was tough to get to but I used a 10mm wrench to start it and then got it off with a 10mm socket....

DAY 2 ENDED

....Total time about 2 hours (as well as 1 more to write all this!!!)
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btw...here is pic of the timing belt were it is frayed...
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I just teared up........

 

From one do-it-yourselfer to another....great work and pics !! I'm currently doing my TR in a similar thread but may be lacking the detail that your going into with your pictures. I commend you for taking the time and effort to document things. It will not only help the value of your car, but will help others here on fchat and possibly even inspire others to dirty their hands a little dirty. My hat is off to you.....

 

well said..

 

Outstanding documentary thread for the 348 Brotherhood. Nice job.

 

Great write up and nice pics, keep up the good work.

If I remember correctly there's a cotter pin that needs to be unclipped so that the deck lid shock can be popped off. It should be just under the round part that attaches to the little ball joint.

You can just put a length wise slit in the water pump hoses, with a razor, and peel them off, your going to be replacing them anyway. Don't forget to drain the radiators, the via plastic screws on the bottom right corners of the radiators. Just be sure to use a really wide standard screw driver because you don't want to strip them, as they are plastic. There is also a plug on the left side of the engine, you can see it just under the exhaust manifolds, that will need to be removed so that the coolant can be drained out of the block. You don't want old coolant mixing with the new stuff.

 

Thanks for taking the time to do this great write up / pictorial documentation. I was going to say to cut the radiator hoses and then peel them off. Are you going to do any engine painting / detailing while you have it all apart?
BT

 

Great write up and pictures, doing the same to my Spider right now as its due for a cam belt change and service.

Same problem with my water hoses, looks like I will be cutting them as well!!

Regards,
Phil.

 

i think its great you are posting all the details . it will be appreciated years to come. maybe someone should compile the pics and data w/o all the comments in between and post on the repair tips page ?

 

At least it's only frayed, not off - metal bits in drained oil notwithstanding, hoping this means relatively little minimal impact occured to the bit$.

 

Most likely. The car is getting a total respray from the shop that originally resprayed it. They agreed to redo the whole car since the job they originally did was sub standard. So I will have time to clean up the engine while it is out...Which leads me to another question, how can I transport the car with the sub frame out (or is that not a good idea)?

 

Absolutely.

 

Maybe get some of those dollies that are for moving pianos etc.. that have 3 or 4 wheels each and are depressed in the loading area. You should be able to fab up some kind of blocking and bearing on the ramining frame rails that will give you approximately the same rear clearance (height) as with the sub frame attached.

BT

 

What is the best way to remove the stainless braided oil line at the bottom of the oil sump?

 

Tie a rope around it.


Tie the other end of the rope to a horse.


Shoot a loud gun or slap the horse on the ass!!!!




Sorry dude for the humor. It is 1:15 A.M. I had a dealership overnight me an exhaust gasket I needed to install my Tubi. This morning, UPS came and I opened the package to find that they shipped the wrong gasket (shipped the Euro version one - fricken cripes!!!!) even though I TOLD them that they came in two sizes and I needed the BIGGER one. So today I drove about 3 hours to get there to pick up the part myself since I am doing an event tomorrow and my old gasket was now worthless. Then 3 hours back. Then spent the last 3 hours putting it in myself.

9 hours wasted, when I was supposed to get it this morning, take it to the exhaust shop for my 11 A.M. appointment to have THEM install it, then go to one of the Madison car dealerships a friend owns, to detail my car till my heart was content, in their professional detailing bay. Would have been done by 2 and home to finish the yard, daydream, sleep, whatever.....

Now I need to then get up at 6 A.M. tomorrow to detail the car (was supposed to do that this afternoon but was busy driving to freakin' Chicago). When you are meeting up with a Gallardo first thing in the morning, it would be rude to have a ratty looking car!!! ;-)

I needed the comic relief at this point!! ;-)


*******HIJACK OVER*************

 

Unfortunately, I don't have access to a horse at the present time....but I'm sure there must be another way!

 

Use a big adjustable wrench. I assume your speaking of the line on the bootom of the oil tank?? If you are speaking of the line on the engine sump, you don't need to undo it from there, just from the tank.

 

I was working on Byron's car and did exactly that. I was chewed a new ****** by this board. It is glad to know a real pro had this very same idea. You guys remember that? I'll add hitting the wrench with a rubber mallet. Quick torque loads especially on aluminium are better than long sustained torque loads. This nut can be on there pretty tight. A quick light wrap is much kinder on this nut.

 

You got chewed out for that?? I hope your jokeing. On a fitting this size it works excellent. Obviously you aren't going to use an adjustable on a 10mm nut..but on a fitting that is almost 2 inches in diameter you aren't going to do any damage.

 

I thought the tmobileguy is actually having trouble removing the braided hose from the car? Like there was a trick to slip the hose out from the side of the engine

 

No, I actually remember the reading the thread on the old site.

For what it's worth, I also used a big crescent wrench to take off the oil line on the tank.