If you disconnect the cat ECU in a TR the light wil stay on all the time. The TR does not have a check engine light. Disconnecting the cat ECU will in no way effect the mixture of the engine.
hehe Im still awake from yesterday afternoon. Went to work last night,finished this morning,on days off now. Just hit 12pm here. My work mate came past at 10am,on his way to the pub to pick up a few slabs to start drinking. The pubs open here at 10am. I was like,nah,f*ck that. Did that with him after my last nightshifts 2 weeks ago,i dunno how i got home and not sure where my shirt went too? And i only live 500m from his house
I think around 99.9% of Australian's drink the stuff. Not me though,the Jim Beam is mine. That the girlfriends Bundy Rum. Its just rum(spirits),made in Bundaberg,Q.L.D Australia. Proudly Australian made I hate the crap! Its really really popular here,in the cans with cola and the un-mixed bottles where you can mix your own toxic brew
Hopefully the upstream problem can be tracked down - that's the real issue. Given that the light came on only momentarily, and, when the car was cold, then the implication is that the light coming on wasn't caused by an overtemp cat. The cats are designed to heat up quickly on start up but, based upon what you have described, it sounds like the light came on before the cats would be anywhere near op temp. So, you may indeed have a simple wiring/electrical problem of some sort rather than an unburnt fuel issue (more serious and potentially dangerous). There are some obvious and distinct benefits to removing the cats. Specifically, removal typically, a) lowers temperatures in the engine bay and directly around the location of the now removed cat - this is good for several reasons, b) the risk of fire is reduced (although you may still have an unburnt fuel issue, and c) usually, but not always, this will allow the engine to breath a little freer and produce a little more power - on a TR it may only be 5-10 hp or even less. In my experience, with a well tuned engine this has only very modest effect upon the HC and NOx readings, leaving the car still well within most state's limits.
The 5-8 bank slow-down light on my '82 Mondial came on once 2 years ago & the 5-8 bank exhaust manifold blew up. I tried to drive slow for a mile or so but even that was too much. The problem was that the flywheel sensor for that bank was bad & was not sending spark to those cylinders. Raw fuel went down the exhaust & then ignited in the manifold. Upon repair, I found that cats to be clogged too which most likely caused excessive back pressure. The problem as others have said is clearly & probably always upstream. So, be very careful of the dreaded slwo-down light.
You are quoting info from a 348 perspective. Some of what you say is true for the 348 model only. The TR does not have separate Slow down / check engine lights for exhaust and engine management. I learned this from Rifledriver. And you should change your name to just Phagina. BT
This is for Alot of Phagina = can i put a tubi cat on the vehicle. I bet you dribve a motor cycle with scuderia badges in the sides!
Rifledriver, don't get upset when someone gives an opnion. You must have nothing to do but read this crap all day....... Which independent shop do you own? Or are you a garage tinkerer? The name is funny not offensive, I bet even you laughed when austin powers mentioned the name in the movie. Don't go off on tangents to get people to shut up or get kicked off, this is not the 3rd grade.
Your first response was far from an opinion. If you haven't got some constructive advice that this forum can benefit from, to add or help, I think everyone here would appreciate it if you would go away. Sounds like your the one with nothing to do.
You come in here starting off with "Where do you guys get this S***T"? and finish with "these experts are giving you the wrong info". I don't really call that a good intro, nor do I call it an opinion. For your information one of "these experts" is a top guy in the industry we are talking about. You also have questions about my bona fides, fine. If you came here and kept your pie hole shut long enough you would find out there are several of us here with very good ones not the least of which is the PHD I mentioned before. Unlike you we are not just a bunch of clowns with keyboards. Shut up and sit down and maybe you will learn something, or better still just go away. And yes your name is offensive.
OMG!!! A JOKE!!!! NOOOOOO!!!! Get the pitchforks!!!! We're goin on a witchhunt!!!! OOOOOOHHHHHHHHH Jesus H Christ Grow up!
You guys have all your panties caught up in a big bunch. Alota Phagina happens to be 100% correct with his opinion on the slow down light. It's obvious he knows how the system operates and you can all benefit from his knowledge.
If GOD owned a Ferrari and lived in Northern California, he'd take it to Rifledriver for repairs. Type his name in the search area and read what the owner's of these expensive toys have to say about him and "HIS" opinions. I doubt if any of us know your qualifications to offer opinions in this area, but my guess is you're way out of your depth arguing with Rifledriver. Getting in the ring with Mike Tyson proves you're brave not smart. The old saying states that when the student is ready the teacher will arrive. Trust me he's here, don't argue with him, learn from him.....Charlie
This is such a funny thread I had to read it. I even forgot the original problem. Anayway, phagina is offensive but the problem of slow down lights is not necessarily upstream problem. You clould have a down stream obstructed cat that therfore will increase ehaust temps to trigger a light. At higher ehaust flow rates like when you get on it the temps increase faster and higher which could ultimately cuase even more cat guts breakdown and increase obstruction yielding ultimate failure and or fire. I think peopel need to understand the basic outline of how this ssytem works and why there are two systems that go way back to at least the 308gt4 where everthing is set-up like 2 4cly engines on a common crank. It is actually cool that Ferrari does a dual redundant system since their elctronics are so bad that you can swap parts to the otherside to aid in roadside diagnosis. Part of this problems diagnosis IMO should be cat removal if for nothing else but to have a physical inspection. I have shaken many a ,I guess working, cat (car passes smog) only to have chunks of cat guts dropping out one end. That to me spells the end perhaps 8 or 9 lives used. You can put pressure gages in ehaust systems to monitor/check flows but I don't have those guages. 99% of these problems in Ferrari's have always been electrical when I have tried to find them on cars between 308gt4 and 360's which is my experience range. The obvious true mechanical problem is upstream mixture control. With a little thought and referral back to the basics these problems are not too hard to find even if you don't have OEM diagnosistic equipment like SD2 to point you in the right direction.