83 QV down on power and 5-8 light | Page 2 | FerrariChat

83 QV down on power and 5-8 light

Discussion in 'Technical Q&A' started by matteo, Apr 20, 2006.

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  1. Birdman

    Birdman F1 Veteran

    Jun 20, 2003
    6,689
    North shore, MA
    Full Name:
    THE Birdman
    I agree with Rifledriver here. Sounds like you have a bad crank sensor. They are no big deal. It's a coil of wire with a lead on it. They are about $100 from Ferrari UK, which is about 3 times what they should be, but not terrible. There are three on an '83. They are accessible through the left rear wheel opening. They are placed around the bell housing and read notches on the flywheel. They are a bit tricky to access, but they each have a two pin connector that is easy to reach and disconnect. Very easy to trouble shoot. Just disconnect the connector and measure the DC resistance across the pins with a ohm meter. They will read about 600-800 ohms if they are good, and very high to infinite resistance if one is bad. The good thing is they will tend to read bad when they are cold and may get flaky and intermittant as they get warm and they wire in them expands, so measure cold.

    I had the exact problem you are having with the Mondial. I hear your pain, but once you find it, it will be an easy fix.

    Birdman
     
  2. jwise

    jwise Formula Junior

    Apr 2, 2003
    781
    Portland Maine
    #27 jwise, Apr 21, 2006
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
  3. wolftalk

    wolftalk Formula Junior

    Jan 27, 2004
    367
    san franciso area
    Full Name:
    phil
    if you can figure it out from the schem, measuring the resistance of the sensors at the ecu connector(s) is best. That will verify the sensor and a couple of plug connections along the way.

    If the qv is the same as the gtsi, then the TDC sensors are connected to
    pins 1 and 5 on each ecu. The 5-8 bank is a black wire on pin 1, and a yellow wire on pin 5. The 1-4 bank has a blue wire on pin 1, and a green wire on pin 5.
    The tach sensor is connected to pins 2 (black/red) and 3 (red) on both ecu's.

    Be a bit skeptical of the diagram for the round diagnostic connector. I seem to recall that the pin placement is wrong in either the owners manual or the separate schematics for at least one of the 3x8 series.
     
  4. matteo

    matteo F1 World Champ

    Aug 1, 2002
    13,748
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    Heir Butt
    guys,

    After speaking with Eugenio last night, You guys were all right.

    My coils needed replacing from the corrosion,
    My plugs needed changing
    Coil wires needed to be replaced
    The rotors needed replacing
    the ECU needed a good cleaning
    My ECU's did not have a ground strap (which I will add today)
    and the 5-8 TDC sensor needs to be replaced. I am going to order one today.

    The TDC sensor seems to be the causation of the failure.

    jwise, Thank you for the pic. That helps a great deal. I am going to replace the 5-8 and the 1-4 since I am there and I pretty much have replaced everything.

    You guys are great!
     
  5. matteo

    matteo F1 World Champ

    Aug 1, 2002
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    For future referrence.

    Part numbers and prices

    Coils $125 each OEM MM from GT car parts
    Coil Wires $20 each from GT car parts
    Rotors from TR Rutlands $30 each
    Plugs $9 each from Autozone
    antiseize and electrode grease $1 each for a little tube from autozone
    electrical connector spray cleaner $6.00 from autozone
    TDC sensors part# 119052 FLYWHEEL SENSOR (MARELLI # 64820085 $98.00 each
     
  6. Verell

    Verell F1 Veteran
    Consultant Owner

    May 5, 2001
    7,022
    Groton, MA
    Full Name:
    Verell Boaen
    Wow, shades of the 'Wonderful One-Horse Shay'!!!
     
  7. matteo

    matteo F1 World Champ

    Aug 1, 2002
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    I did not mean it like that :)
     
  8. matteo

    matteo F1 World Champ

    Aug 1, 2002
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    Got the 5-8 TDC sensor off in about 4 minutes.

    I used a 8mm 1/4 socket to a 1/4 swivel bead to a 1/4 to 3/8 adapter to a 6 inch 3/8 extension. It came right off!!!


    The sensor was indeed bad. The wire had pulled out from the sensor head leaving just a little wire connecting
     
  9. spiderseeker

    spiderseeker Formula 3

    Jul 22, 2005
    1,718
    Colorado
    Full Name:
    Steve
    "The sensor was indeed bad. The wire had pulled out from the sensor head leaving just a little wire connecting"

    I knew you could do it !!!!!! Great job.
    (p.s. bad sensors were my guess- my PO had a similar problem, just dirty sensor connectors though)

    Should run like new with all of those new parts.
    Enjoy !
    Steve
     
  10. matteo

    matteo F1 World Champ

    Aug 1, 2002
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    Thanks!

    I was unsure if i could do it until i read all of your posts that it was not a big deal.

    i replaced the rotors and grounded the ECU's. The 1-4 5-8 sensors will be here tomorrow


    BTW pin outs are 3 and 4 for 1-4 sensor and 5 and 6 are for the 5-8 sensor.

    I found my multimeter. 1-4 read 734 and it was unreadable for 5-8
     
  11. Rifledriver

    Rifledriver Three Time F1 World Champ

    Apr 29, 2004
    37,288
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    Brian Crall
    The new sensors will prob have the late style connectors so a little cutting and splicing may be in your future.

    Good work.
     
  12. matteo

    matteo F1 World Champ

    Aug 1, 2002
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    Thanks Brian.

    In terms of cutting and splicing. Are you referring to the connector side or the sensor side? I ordered them from Rutlands so I am not sure which ones I will be getting.

    Any best practices for doing the splice?
     
  13. olehholy

    olehholy Karting

    Nov 12, 2003
    122
    NJ
    Full Name:
    Oleh Holynskyj

    Slightly off topic but relavent to the great picture from jwise. What is the white wire that is going "over" the oil pressure sender and down the other side. When I was replacing my oil pressure sender, this wire on mine was pinched underneath and made a simple swap much more diffucult. Just wonder where it goes. I pulled some slack out and ran it around the oil sender because it was preventing me from lining up the threads of the sender correctly. Hope I did not disconnect it on some other end by mistake.

    Oleh
     
  14. f355spider

    f355spider F1 World Champ
    Owner Rossa Subscribed

    May 29, 2001
    18,055
    USA
    Heavier can't hurt...I'd use at least a 14ga, and 12ga would be best.

    Here are the instructions:
    http://www.***********.com/tech/view.php?id=20
     
  15. pad

    pad Formula 3

    Sep 30, 2004
    1,426
    Tequesta, FL
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    Paul Delatush
    You mentioned that 3 out of 4 plugs on the front bank are white while the rest are look good. White plugs indicate a lean condition. If you were not getting a good spark to those plugs, they would be carboned up i.e. sooty black. Your problem may be in the fuel delivery system. The cold start system probably has masked the lean condition until operating temps are reached. I'm running EFI so I have little experience with the CIF. Good hunting.
     
  16. matteo

    matteo F1 World Champ

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    If you did, your car would act like mine. There is a bunch of slack on these cable.

    Nothing to worry about if it runs fine.
     
  17. Rifledriver

    Rifledriver Three Time F1 World Champ

    Apr 29, 2004
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    The new ones will be white cable with std Bosch connectors like in the picture. If you have those already it will just be plug and play. If not clip the black connectors off the old sensors and any type of reliable splice will work. You can use crimp connectors or solder and heat shrink tubing.

    It will all be self explanatory when you have both in your hand.
     
  18. matteo

    matteo F1 World Champ

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    I am kinda not too worried about this...yet. I did run the car while it was acting up to test different things I changed so this could just be a by product of what else has been going on.

    If after I replace the sensors and it's still acting up, then...there will be a 308 for sale....cheap.
     
  19. matteo

    matteo F1 World Champ

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    #44 matteo, Apr 21, 2006
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Just for clairfication...

    the sensors are...

    5-8 = under the water hose at the 10 position
    1-4 = in the 3 position
    RPM = in the 7 position
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
     
  20. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa

    Jan 11, 2001
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    Can you check that matteo?

    The 1-4 and 5-8 sensors must be mounted 90 deg apart so isn't it the RPM sensor at the 3 o'clock position by the oil cooler?
     
  21. matteo

    matteo F1 World Champ

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    I was actually asking everyone else!!! :)

    Eugenio said the one @ 7 was the 5-8 but another post said that it was for RPM

    Other posts in this thread said 10 and 3 were for the cylinders.
     
  22. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
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    Jan 11, 2001
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    Understood -- in your OM there is a figure in the ignition system section that gives the wire colors so you can reconfirm at the harness connectors (it also shows the 90 deg relationship for the 1-4 and 5-8 sensors).
     
  23. matteo

    matteo F1 World Champ

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    that's were it gets vague for me.

    The wires are sealed inside a protective cover. The end connectors that connect to the sensors are three different colors.

    The Black connector feeds the 7
    Blue feeds the 10
    and White feeds the 3

    The OM only has the color of the wire (which I cant see) and not the color of the connector
     
  24. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
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    Jan 11, 2001
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    #49 Steve Magnusson, Apr 21, 2006
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
  25. matteo

    matteo F1 World Champ

    Aug 1, 2002
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    According to the OM, The two TDC sensors use pin 3 and 4, 5 and 6 on the diagnostic pin outs.

    Currently only one sensor on my car is removed. The one in the 7 position.

    I get a OHM reading on pins 3 and 4 and nothing on 5 and 6.

    Not sure what that comfirms but it's something.
     

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