Problem with 308qv front wheel seal-HELP ! | FerrariChat
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Problem with 308qv front wheel seal-HELP !

Discussion in 'Technical Q&A' started by spiderseeker, May 1, 2006.

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  1. spiderseeker

    spiderseeker Formula 3

    Jul 22, 2005
    1,718
    Colorado
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    Steve
    #1 spiderseeker, May 1, 2006
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    HELP !!!!

    #1. I removed the front bearings to repack them and I forgot which way the bearing seal is installed- should the rubber lip on the seal point to the bearing or point toward the rear of the spindle ? see photo- the lip is pointing to the spindle in the photo, is this correct ?


    #2. I can't get the rotor to turn when the caliper shims are installed, it acts like the hub isn't seated properly against the spindle , causing the rotor to stick out a little too far. Should the hub fit flush against the back of the spindle or should there be a gap (like mine-see photo, about a 3/16" gap between the hub and the spindle, doesn't look right.)

    (I can't believe something so simple is driving me so crazy)
    Steve
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  2. Verell

    Verell F1 Veteran
    Consultant Owner

    May 5, 2001
    7,022
    Groton, MA
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    Verell Boaen
    #2 Verell, May 1, 2006
    The seal faces outwards. In general, the cup side of a seal is towards the material that's to be kept in.

    It looks to me like the bearing isn't pressed all the way in. It's been awhile since I've done front wheel bearings, but I think I'd remember if the seal stuck out like that. I've done wheel bearings on lots of other cars, trailors, etc & they've always ended up fitting flush with the hub.

    How did you get the old bearing & seal out? My suspicion is that you've got a nick in the bearing mounting surface that's preventing the bearing or possibly the seal from fully seating. I've seen bearings get cocked slightly on removal or installation & put enough of a crease in the mounting surface so the bearing won't seat properly.

    I'd say it's time to press the bearing out & take some measurements & a close look.
     
  3. spiderseeker

    spiderseeker Formula 3

    Jul 22, 2005
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    #3 spiderseeker, May 1, 2006
    Verell- so it is correct as shown ? (except the seal needs to be recessed a little more)

    I removed the inner bearing and seal as a pair by tapping on the bearing with a long driver from the other end. I have since bought a seal puller that I will be using now.

    Do you remember if the hub is supposed to fit flush with the spindle? I can only get the caliper to work if I remove all of the spacers, so I think it needs to be flush and not with the gap as shown.
     
  4. jwise

    jwise Formula Junior

    Apr 2, 2003
    781
    Portland Maine
    #4 jwise, May 1, 2006
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Steve-
    Yes, the seal goes flush. The last picture shows the old seal installed on my car. I also think it sounds like the bearing is not completely seated. Did you also replace the bearing race? They are driven into the hub with a bearing driver- as show below. The taper of the bearing in relation to the taper on the spindle will determine where along the spindle the hub rests.

    So the rotor spins fine until you put the caliper on?

    Also- did you seat the bearings correctly by tightening the wheel nut at the end of the spindle? If that nut is too tight, nothing will work. IIFC, I tightened it to about 18 ft/pounds, backed it off, and the retightened to 11 ft/lbs and then spun the rotor to make sure all was smooth. Don't quote me on those numbers- it's somewhere in FChat.
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  5. spiderseeker

    spiderseeker Formula 3

    Jul 22, 2005
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    #5 spiderseeker, May 1, 2006
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Jwise: It looks like the lip of yours is sticking out above the hub like mine.
    I haven't changed the race. The problem is that when I put the hub-rotor assembly back on, the caliper seems like the rotor is pushed out too far, if I add the 2 spacers to each end of the caliper, it rubs (locks up) the rotor. Without spacers it spins freely. Yes, I did torque to 18lbs then release tension and re-torque to 11lbs.
    Is the spring loaded metal band installed between the bearing and the seal ? or is it part of the seal ?
    Steve
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  6. LarryS

    LarryS Formula Junior

    Nov 14, 2003
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    #6 LarryS, May 1, 2006
    That looks like the band that holds the caliper piston dust seal od to the caliper.
     
  7. spiderseeker

    spiderseeker Formula 3

    Jul 22, 2005
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    #7 spiderseeker, May 1, 2006
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
  8. LarryS

    LarryS Formula Junior

    Nov 14, 2003
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    #8 LarryS, May 1, 2006
    I THINK YOU are absolutely correct....thanks....
     
  9. spiderseeker

    spiderseeker Formula 3

    Jul 22, 2005
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    #9 spiderseeker, May 1, 2006
    I had the bearing and seal correct all along, the problem was the rotor wasn't flush (due to a little rust) with the hub. I mounted a wheel and it pulled them together and fixed the problem.

    Thanks so much for all the help !!- This board is the greatest, I wouldn't own a Ferrari without it.

    Steve
     
  10. CliffBeer

    CliffBeer Formula 3

    Apr 3, 2005
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    Seattle, Washington
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    Cliff
    #10 CliffBeer, May 2, 2006
    One thought - if you didn't replace the race (replacing only the bearings/cage) then you've only repaired half the problem. Typically, when the bearings gets worn two things happen (neither of which is good): a) running temps are much elevated (you'll see a "blueing" of the race and bearings as evidence) causing the metal to lose some of its desirable characteristics, and b) the race and bearing surfaces become impacted and pitted. a) causes the metal to lose some of its durability and the race can actually distort, and b) will cause premature failure of the new bearings because the poor surface of the race will be mirrored on the roller bearings over time.

    I'd reco always replacing the race when replacing the bearings. One helpful tip for pressing in the new races: take the old race and grind a couple thousands off the OD on the bench grinder - you can now stack this on top of the new race being pressed in so you have a nice surface to press with. Of course, this assumes you have a hydraulic press - much better than hammering it in.
     
  11. spiderseeker

    spiderseeker Formula 3

    Jul 22, 2005
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    #11 spiderseeker, May 2, 2006
    I didn't replace the bearings or race but I did thoroughly inspect them as part of my routine checkup for trouble free Summer driving. The race was flawless, no pits or discoloring, the bearings were fully packed with grease and worked like new. I did repack them , that's all. Brake inspection and fluid change too.
    Looks great, PO did a nice job maintaining the car.
     

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