My 348 engine out procedure with pics

If you havent got the hose off yet,i checked to see what size it is anyways for you this morning. It is a 46mm spanner you will need,or an 18" shifter as tbakowsky mentioned

 

Yeah...people on this board don't like my assortment of hammers either. I must have 20. One time as an apprentice Ferrari mechanic under the tutilage of a well known Real Ferrari mechanic he asked me how I would get this piece off this delicate distributor on a priceless mille miglia car. I looked him in the eye and said I'd give it a sharp wack with this brass hammer. He looked at me shook his head gave me the distributor and said "go for it." Apparently, I surprised him. All his previous school trained mechanics had all kinds of great ways to do this exact job. Me...I wasn't so smart...all I ever grew up with was a hammer, screw driver , and a welder so you gotta learn to make due.

 

Yeah sometimes you have to "dumb down". LOL

 

Oh lord.... and I think I know what your real profession is. Good thing I don't live in Southern California and need your services! Ouch!

 

I am stumped by the same question, what comes first bodywork or 30k engine service? Maybe body work should come first before pulling motor, that way you can clean the engine bay from all the bodyshop dust afterwards. I also thought about choice number three, both at the same time, is this a bad idea moving car to shop without rear wheels? Thoughts?

 

i wouldnt as they need to roll it in and out of spray booth. you should paint after, so you wont mess up your new finish installing the engine components.

 

A little more support on the ajustable wrench thing, I've used one on my 348 and 355 oil lines. Those are big muthas, works fine if you are careful and as for the rubber mallet done that too, also agree one tap is better than yankin' on aluminum(aluminium for our Brit buds here) What did Jimmy Buffet say, oh yea, keep it simple stupid, Regards, Vern

 

Have a look toward in the opening that was covered by the metal plate. Looking up towards the transmisson you will find a 5mm allen key bolt. Remove it. Now you can slide the entire assembly off the shift shaft of the trans. I will take a bit of jiggleing but it will slide off.

 

The shifter cables are easy to remove. All you have to do is take off the two bolts (10mm iirc) that hold each cable to the selector on the gear box. That's it. The rubber box just covers the connections. When you raise the car off the subframe the cables will just hang there. If you want you can remove the tunnel cover on the bottom of the car, and then remove the bracket in the middle of the cables, that holds them to the body. This will give the cables a bit more room to travel, but it isn't necessary. Also don't forget to disconnect the throttle cable .

 

Glad you figured it out.

The ecu's are easy to disconnect. Use shorty standard screw driver to open the push locks that hold down the cover. Just a half turn will unlock them. Once you have the cover off you will see a metal bar on the side of the ecu's. After you remove the retaining screws, holding the ecu's in place, grab the bar and lift it off. It will unplug itself from the ecu's. Then unplug the test buttons (US models), and the other small test connection on the ecu's.

 

Yeah it can be a bit of a pain to get it out, if you don't have it in the right position. One trick you could have tried is to put the tranny in 3rd. This slides it forward so that you have better access to the allen screw. When you put it back together you'll see what I'm talking about. Be sure not to clean off the grease, or better yet put fresh grease in the slider slot.

 

put wd40 on it and heat it for about 30 seconds with a propane torch. let cool and remove. If that does not work spray more wd40 and repeat. It worls everytime.

 

And take a picture of the flame-on-brake connection! You know that will make for a great shot in the 348 Primer!

 

Are you talking about the brake pipe?? Have you also tried using a pipe spanner?? Its like an ring spanner,with a slot cut in it,to slip over the pipe and it gives you more bite on the pipe,instead of rounding the fitting using an open ended spanner. If you know what i mean?

 

And dont forget the pic of the "burning 348 in the garage" to uplink to www.wreckedexotics.com lol

 

Did you remember to rotate the subframe 90deg? You need to do that so that the shock towers can pass under the bar that the exhaust heat shields are bolted to.

 

Yes it is.

He's not saying to make a flame thrower with it. Just spray some on let it soak for a few seconds, then, hit it with some heat.

Which connection for the break line are you trying to get off, because there are two. Well actually one goes to the top of the trans. But the one on the bottom left, in between the two beams on the subframe, can be taken off using two open end wrenches. At least thats how I did it. If you want, remove the bracket holding it to the side, then you can move it a little bit to get the wrenchs around it.

Sometimes you have to cuss at it to get it to come off, LOL.