Dino Restoration

Excellent, thanks for the help Jon. Much appreciated.

 

Just ask. More contrast and sharpened. They look better. Not the camera or photographer. Looks like there was massive nose damage in the past. Jon's pics should help a lot in rework. Let us know how it comes out. On a nice new thread.

John
Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

John, Thanks for processing the photos, i only posted them originally to show '74dinogts' the difference in the chassis between USA and European cars.
Regards Graham Paske

 

Graham, forgive my bad manners, thanks for you pictures as well. Did you use the same steel tube shapes as originally came on the car? If so, it appears the USA cars were quite different from the Euro cars.

 

Yes all the tubing is as original. in fact the rectangular section used which at first looks like flat solid bar, is actually hollow section! this proved quite difficult to obtain and took some time but we eventually found a stockist.
P.S.
I am doing things a bit 'arse about face' as originally i thought i could get away with a partial stripdown and repaint but after many sleepless nights it's now a full blown down to chassis shotblast and start again job!
Regards,
Graham Paske.

 

Dear Omgjon: You have great toys and tools. Let me know if you would like to adopt another son. I'm 39 and fully toilet trained. Cheers!

P.S. Thanks for posting the images - the car is going to be great and your other son will never forget the experience.

 

I wouldn't believe a word of what Keith says about himself. I AM THE ONE WHO IS TOILET TRAINED SO ADOPT ME.

Mark

 

Omgjon,

I must admit that I am rather jealous of your tools. Those Beta tools are amazing. I am sure you will enjoy them.

 

Jon - there is no easy way of getting the bottom door hinge off. Mine required an air-chisel. They become one with the chassis if not perodically lubricated.

I used a long 1/2 inch rachet extension bar (purchased at Sears) and ground it down on a grinding wheel to make a narrow drift that was long enough to approach from the bottom of the car. Despite this tool, I could not bang out the pin. I soaked it, heated it, hammered it, and prayed. Perhaps the prayer led to my inspiration to use an air-chisel. In so doing I punched a defect in the door skin. Unavoidable, but since everything was to be stripped, sandblasted, etc., it was easily fixed later.

Lesson to be learned? First, grease the heck out of the pins when putting back in for the final go. Second, either purchase an extra set of pins (available at GT Car parts), or have a machinist (I have a friend...) make up a set of working pins. You will have the door on and off many times during blocking and sanding and aligning and painting jams, etc. Finally, consider having a set of pins made that have a spiral groove runing the length of the pin with a ball-valve and spring as per the original. This will ensure lubrication flow to the hinge surfaces. Yes, the original pins have a flat surface, but I am not sure that this is as effective as a 360 degree spiral.

Make sure the hinge holes are wire-brushed or honed to remove old paint and rust.

Have fun.

Jim S.

 

The "nut" is nothing but a soft metal grease conduit. It has a spring and small ball that allows one to feed oil down the pin. Unfortunately, the pin is hollow. The nut is easy to remove, and you can bang on the upper end of the pin, but it will likely flare, making passage that much more difficult. In addition, I do not recall (but can check tomorrow) whether there is sufficient clearance for the bin to exit all of the way out of the hinge before it hits the body work.

What I had to do is exactly as you are suggesting. I took off the cap nut and hammered downward. As it progressed downward I kept cutting off the buttom end. This allowed for the clearance to remove it from the bottom.

You will need a nifty tool, such as an air chisel, to cut the pin. They are pretty hard. Another option is to use heat. As you are going to paint the car anyway, paint blistering is not an issue. And if the door skin warps a little, you can block and sand it out later. Heat cures all. Heat the sucker (hinge, not pin) and bang away. It is crude, but the only way.

Again, I learned a lesson. RATHER THAN CHANGE BELTS IN MY BOXER (every 5 years or 30,000 miles) I will remove and grease my Dino door hinges every 5 months.

Jim S.

 

Jon,
Yes the rear channel is welded and i aint selling mine on E-Bay either, I just thought it was fun to speculate!

 

Nerodino

Been following your dino restoration, which looks like a most excellent job. I have just started a Daytona restoration, also on this site and can appreciate the highs and lows you are no doubt going through.

All the bes.t

Tim

 

From your post #219 -

"Hopefully you concours nuts have this."

I'm lost. Does that window motor decal face inwards toward the interior, or outwards towards the outer door skin?

Thanks -

Mark Nerheim

 

Jon -

Regarding your door related postings (217-219):

1. Have you been able to source a replacement for the bezel that surrounds the interior door lock plunger? The little prongs on mine no longer grip the surrounding material (at least one of the prongs has broken off), and I haven't been able to locate a correct source. Maybe DM (Good Ol' Dave) has a source?

2. When you took the door apart were you able to tell if the interior door lock plunger rubbed against the glass or did it clear it? The plunger on my passenger side door was bent slightly to clear the glass, but I don't think I saw a photo of your plunger.

Again, to echo everyone else here, fantastic photos!

Thanks -
Mark Nerheim

 

Great pics!
My car has not got that heat shield, does anyone else have it on a GTs, was it original equipment?