Hard starting 308

You need a full fuel pressure test and fuel system check. You should not need to touch the throttle (cold or warm) when starting an injected car.

My WUR was the wrong Bosch part and it caused poor warm starts and poor warm idle. A replacement correct WUR solved both problems. This was determined after a fuel pressure test.

There are lots of posts in the archives dealing with this exact issue- try a search for much more information.

Good luck.

 

I think a bad accumulator would give those symptoms. It's purpose is to maintain fuel pressure when the engine is off.

 

I have similar experience...starts up perfectly cold in the morning... then after a drive,and then parked for a while.... now got to crank and crank.. for 45 sec to what seems like 1 min. then fires up realy rough... like only 1 of 2 banks firing.. then about 15 ~ 20 sec later it vroooms up to a normal sound...
your best bet try replacing the accumulator, did wonders for me

Mark

 

not to discount any FI issues; first look over your vaccum lines, a leak there can cause similar problems

 

Usually, a vacuum leak would cause a lean mixture all the time, not a rich mixture just when starting.

I think it's the check valve in the fuel pump that keeps the fuel pressure from bleeding back into the tank when off. The accumulator absorbs surges in fuel pressure from irregular fuel flow between the electric pump and injectors.

From the symptoms, it sounds like perhaps one of the injectors is leaking: either a CIS injector or the cold start injector. The leaking injector will both bleed pressure off the system, and will flood the intake (or manifold) with excess fuel for the next start. If the car remains off long enough, the excess fuel will evaporate, but the CIS will still have to build up the lost pressure.

The cold start injector is a regular electric injector, it should remain dry when not electrically activated. The CIS injectors are supposed to cut off when the injection pressure in the individual lines from the fuel distributor fall below a certain level. (On a 328, the injectors open at 3.0 to 4.1 Bar, but I'd guess the 308's injectors are similar. With 2.6 Bar residual pressure, the injectors should be off.)

 

he didn't mention a rich condition just a harad start. i had a vaccum line pop off and it created the same problem. what tipped me off to the location was when i would brake the car would stall and die. then i noticed the incorrect vavle arrangement and the loose vaccum line.

 

Please correct this, some people says that the 308 QV GTB/GTS are the same FI system as the 328 and a little different from the 2Valves FI, is this true?

 

Depends what US model year 308QV:

1980-1982 US 308i 2-valve = K-Jet without Lambda
1983 US 308QV = K-Jet without Lambda
1984-1985 US 308QV = K-Jet with Lambda
1986-1989 US 328 = K-Jet with Lambda

 

thank you Mine is a 84 GTS QV

 

Oh, by the way, the "warm-up regulator" is also known as the "control pressure regulator". It's not just for warm-up.

But the described symptoms sound like leaking injectors to me.

 

So I ok, according to this 1984 to 1989 US are all the same, yes?