I'd recommend Sal DiMauro @ Italia Motori, Artarmon.
I got my car back just before Christmas and the motor pulls quite good.I initially had a few problems but a new set of leads fixed it.Then I was having clutch problems turned out that the pressure plate had a few bent fingers so it was replaced still under warranty.Now the only problems I'm having is the occasional foul plug.It's running rich but I think I'm going to go with electronic ignition to see if that cures my problems.Other than that all's well.As far as suspension I really wanted upgrated parts if you have any.Email me with what parts you have left over.Cheers(sorry to go off topic) Image Unavailable, Please Login
didn't the leads include the donuts that stop the water getting into the sparkplug wells ? looks clean and neat, and the fouling was always a problem on mine and I used it a LOT !! Tried several different plugs but found that the bk7es (??) were as good as any , the exhaust was light grey after a day at the track, dark grey the rest of the time. Gleggy on here has done very nice job of putting electronic ignition on his carbed 308GTB (he may even post a picture if he likes us), PM him for details
PPI, as stated, is Pre Purchase Inspection. as opposed to PPP.... Pre Purchase Prediction. (This is what we all want really, I'm waiting for a Snap On Magic wand and a crystal ball) as opposed to PP. Nobody wants one of those.
Didn't you have a heap of starter motor problems too? Running rich will not be cured with electronic ignition. Other problems might, and eventually you'll save a little on servicing costs, but it'll take many years to save back the initial cost of electronic conversion (and depreciation from originality). Once again, points and condensors work fine for 1000's of km (Two Targa Tasmanias with only servicing in between is totally realistic). And unless you go full electronic and delete the mechanical advance mechanism, you're just giving yourself false assurance that your ignition can be left alone from now on!
Good memory Phil!I did have problems with the starter but that was mainly due to an incompitent auto-electrician.I gave him my working starter motor so that he could replace the solenoid cap which was a bit scorched and he did but after that I had problems with it.I then changed the whole solenoid and that fixed it but this was while the car was still at the workshop.Phil,what would you propose I do.The fouling issue is starting to give me the sh1ts.I'm already currently using BP5EY's so I cant get any hotter than that.I've been told by numerous people both here on the board and other owners that the conversion to electronic just about cured all there problems.What jetting would you reccomend?Maybe I should start up another thread although I am currently following the jetting thread in the Tech Q&A.Thanks for your advice
For electronic you need the "whoevers it is" system.. Graeme Vincent, Frank Capo and Black Stallion all claim to have made a system. I've seen the ones supplied and fitted by Black Stallion, and they work well, but I don't like the GM Holden single pole dizzy cap, single coil or billet dizzy body... it just looks wrong. After bad tuning, Fuel quality is the biggest reason for plug fouling. Use BP ultimate or Mobil 8000 98 RON, have a proper carb tune where you end up with a CO of about 4-5 % and HC of 200-500 PPM, and it'll not foul plugs in mixed driving. Pure city driving could still foul even a perfectly tuned engine. Your plug choice seems ok, provided you have std compression and cams. What were the carb tune readings from your engine builder?
Maurice, I am running electronic in the GT4 with BP6ES. No fouling in Sydney traffic. Not sure whether it's the ignition or just the carb tuning. I tend to agree with Phil. A well set up mechanical ignition will deliver as much juice as a standard electronic ignition (not talking about CDI, big mother coils etc) for the first 1hr of running, then it goes down hill from there . There is no getting away from it, points wear. But I still don't think that is causing your fouling. I would check carb tuning. I am even contemplating going to BP7ES to see how it runs.
I dont have carb tune readings and the compression was bumped up to 10.10:1 I think from memory.I am currently using Mobil premium 98.Plugs are really sooty
If you need just need a PPI, why not ask Gerry Duyvestyn. As far as people within the club in NSW goes there are too many qualified others who know the range of cars he does
Well, get the carb tune readings from him, or simply get the carbs tuned again/properly. Make sure the gas analyser is in good health and calibrated in recent memory. For high comp engines, you'll need to run 6 or 7 heat range NGK plugs as opposed to std comp which can have 5's to reduce fouling.
Thanks Phil. I don't see the point in going to 6EY, as 6ES run fine on my engine. but since I am contemplating 7s then I will try 7EY. (although I have a set of 7ES in the cabinet
My guess is that you are bleeding un-metered fuel into the intake or you mixture is not set correctly. If it runs fine of idle (3Krpm and up) that would be it. Rebuilt carbs does not mean perfect carbs. I should know
Just bought a set of BP6EYs so I'll give them a try.I will try and find out if there wereany carb tune readings.So are you pretty much against the electronic conversion?The guy I spoke to reckons he leaves the two distributors in place and hides most of the other components so the visual impact is at a minimum.My question to you is could I go wrong in going electronic or will it always be an improvement?As far as devalue in the end its still a GT4 and I cant imagine it being worth to much less or am I wrong?Thanks again Phil
The biggest gain for going electronic is to remove one of the dizzies, so that timing synchronisation of the pair is no longer an issue.. To simply fit electronic low tension triggers is minimal gain. All you save is points wear... you still have to time and synchronise two dizzies. The "whoevers it is" system uses only one dizzy and has no mechanical advance... so synchronisation and maintenance are no longer needed. Anything less than this is only half a job for twice the price in my book. But this system requires quite extensive installation and makes a big impact on engine bay presentation and requires drilling holes and wiring etc etc... Not something I like to promote. This system also costs about the same as 15 sets of points install and set ups... which would normally get you up to 100,000 km... If you do less than 5000 km a year, just stick with stock standard everything. Unless you have money to burn. if you've paid for an engine rebuild, carb tune and ignition service already, it should all be ok for ages yet. I'd be worried about not having carb tune report. I keep all mine on record, and to build/install an engine without doing this is quite strange.
Italia Motori Service is 8-10 Whiting st Artarmon. Sal, Andrea or Giovani are all great to deal with. 9906 7111
