Testa Trouble Starting

Test the crank sensors (3 of them), they control each bank- should be about 600 ohms I believe. My PO had a similar problem with my car (85' 308)- just had to clean the connectors.

 

And change the oil!!! It must be really gassy if you cranked/ran it for any length of time!

Ken

 

Si -- Are you looking for some DIY help, or are you just going to take it to the mechanic anyway? I can think of several things in either the ignition system or the fuel system that can take out a bank on a TR. The first step is to determine whether it's a spark or fuel problem -- i.e., when running (briefly) on the one good bank, check for ignition at the coil (and spark plug) leads with a timing light:

If both banks have OK ignition, you'd go after things like making sure the both fuel pumps are actually running by manually jumping the relays, checking for frazzled fuel pump connections in the white connectors, etc.

If the right bank is missing ignition, you'd swap the coils and then the power modules to see if you can detect the bad player there (the engine will fire, but won't run continuously if the left side ignition is not switching the coil primary current properly -- since you report that it does run continuously on one bank, this indicates that the left 7-12 side ignition is probably OK now).

Anyway, if you can deduce spark or fuel, I can make some more specific suggestions from there.

 

"y" connector -- the lower one on the US Driver's side (so you'll have to unplug the "x" connector first) -- the 4th and the 5th pins from the right (big beige wire and big beige/black wire):
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Steve,

The white connector sure seems to be the cause of a lot of issues...is there something that can be done "preventative"? Or is there a better connector/solution?

 

Michael -- No, not really. I think the best thing that you can do is to try to catch (and repair/refresh) any damage as soon as possible so that the PCB and/or male pins don't get degraded beyond useable/restorable -- i.e., unplug them once in a while and look for the telltale darkening of overheating.

In my own case, I've "repaired" all of the critical high-current connections (except for the oil fans) per this thread:

http://ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=106751

so I'm good but, as I said before, I think virtually all TR will eventually need repairs somewhere in this area.

Si -- Yes, those are the wires going to run the fuel pump electric motors (and they carry about 10A each!). See that same thread for your repair options. As a test, if the female and male pins are still OKish, you can clean the contact surfaces up with a little sandpaper and try "resqueezing" the female pin shut) and see if you can get the "dead" bank to come back to life (but don't rely on this for a long-term repair -- it won't last). The best test for fuel pump operation is to remove the fuel pump relays and touch a jumper wire from the 30 terminal to the 87 terminal in the relay socket as shown in the jpeg -- with the jumper wire in place, you should hear the corresponding fuel pump run (even with the key "off") if the connections in the white connectors are working. But you still haven't really proven that that is your problem -- even though that connection looks toasted (and could very well be the problem), it could be working and you might still have an ignition problem -- keep digging )
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Si -- Glad you found/confirmed the culprit. All of the white connector pieces sourcing information that I'm aware of is in that other thread.

If you don't know when the last time the oil was changed, you should just go ahead and change it now IMO (but please post such things in a new thread rather than changing the subject).

 

Sorry -- I misunderstood your question about the oil. There's no real functional test or observation for when to change your oil -- just go by mileage and/or time from the last change.

 

Steve, thanks for the info.

 

Whilst you've got it all apart and are cleaning the conectors pud a couple of drops of stabilant 22 on the conection surfaces to help contact and prevent further corosion