Can I ask you some advise for the following: I recently changed the plugs and while I was at it, I decided to change the wires as well. It came off fine, had the cables marked with the corresponding numbers, but checking the distr. cap the numbers on the distr.cap didn`t correspond with the numbers on the engine. Is this Ok? or is it not of any importance? Image Unavailable, Please Login
second question: How do I get the cable out/off from the coil (I cannot find a way to open, and I do not want to pull the cable out by force), and next how do I get the coil cable out off the distr.cap ? Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Third question: Your opinion on the state of the Rotor and the distr.cap Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
That coil is REALLY old. I'd change it. To get the wire out, there is a screw inside the cap under the spring pin . If you look around you will see it. It's just like the ones for the plug wires.
reinstall as uninstalled. Remember, the cylinders fire out of order then the numbers of the cap dictate.
Sorry for my limited knowledge of the english languange, but do you want to leave it as it was? or are you saying that I need to correspond the distr cap numbers to the numbers on the engine?
Make sure that when replacing the wires into the distributor cap/screw that you ohm the wires for resistance, too much resistance and you will fry the distributor caps, rotors, etc...(don't ask me how I know!)... I'm not sure of the value, I would have to look through my notes, maybe someone else has it & could chime in.
And how do you get/create more or less resistance to your wires? BTW it is a set from Taylor (spiro pro 8 mm)
by making sure you buy the correct kind and install it correctly. Where are you located by the way and what kind of car are we talking about?
By changing out the plugwires, rotor's and coils, your engine will run a lot better. Don't forget new plugs as well.
Done that after discovering this: I changed the plug extensions as well I guess changing the plugs started this story. This might sound awfully familiar to you? Image Unavailable, Please Login
OH......MY......GOD....... Are those original LOL!!!! Can you post a pic of the new plug wires" They should have some sort of water protect bootie where the plug extenders connect to the plug wires.
The way to check is to make sure that the wire is pierced with the screw, and not missed! If it's NOT pierced well, there will be alot of resistance, & fry everything. You need to pierce the core of the wire with the screws on the distributor cap Use a multi meter (ohm meter) and measure the resistance of your extensions, then meassure from the inside of the cap - (posts with the new wire in place) to the end of the the wire with or without the extensions. I just find it easier with the extension in place..the value you get will tell you the resistance of the wire especially since you already know the value of the extension..(which I think in uour case should be zero) I replaced the wires on an 80 308 2V, so even if I did have my notes, I'm not sure the values are the same for your car..hopefully someone else will know here. I just don't want to see you fry the caps & rotors like I did.
No they are not. they only lasted 1000 mls, but due to leaking shrouds (also replaced) water got underneath and corroded them this way (there is a thread posted on this one "always wash your car by yourself") were champions now changed to NGK Booty Pics by request (took some time to get to the garage) Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
