After searching the many, many posts, I still am not 100% sure on an injected 308 if all the cam marking should all line up bank 1-4 and bank 5-8 with the flywheel set at PM 1-4 or should bank 5-8 cam marks line up when fly wheel is at PM 5-8 sorry for the huge fotos..... currently this is how it looks the first is at PM 5-8 and notice the timing marks are at the 12 o'clock position and the scond is at PM 1-4 and they look like they are at the 2 o'clock position ( which has the factory marks lined up. I think this is right... but seems odd if bank 5-8 is at TDC the valvetrain seems 45 degrees off with the factory cam markings on the camshafts. not having to take off the cam covers to see the valves in position makes this frustrating. thanks for your help Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
All of the camshaft marks should be lined up with the crankshaft/flywheel at the PM1-4 position (but it must be on the rotation where the #1 cyl is at the instant of firing if the engine is more completely assembled).
Do you have the valve covers off? Don't base ANYTHING on some red paint on the pulleys. That means nothing, it's just something added by someone doing a service at some point, not the factory. You need to look at the cams themselves and align the marks with the marks on the cam caps on the right side. They should ALL (meaning all four cams) line up when the flywheel is at PM1-4. Birdman
thanks Birdman, I dont have the valve cover off, but the paint on the cam pullys do correspond to the marks on the cam shafts, so it seems I have spent many, many hours to find out my timing is OK. But its a relief to know, I have been wondering for years since the engine is basicly two 4 cylinder engines and bank 5-8 had a TDC 90 degrees of crankshaft rotation past the TDC of bank 1-4 , wouldnt bank 5-8 cam markings be set to match the TDC of bank 5-8, otherwise the cam position would be off by 45 degrees UNLESS the engine builder takes this into consideration when he puts the marks on the camshaft, this is why all the confusion., so to be clear, the cam markings on both banks are to be alligned correctly with only using PM 1-4 as the set point. thanks again Mark
So to further this thread: If the cams were removed from the engine how can u tell which cam is for which head and whether its an intake or exhaust cam. just curious Bill
There are quite a few threads about cam timing. If you are NOT pulling off the cam covers, then the best that you can do is lock the cams into position - there are home made tools that can do this - I fashioned on out of wood that works well,- mark the pulleys and old cam belt, loosen the tensioner, fit the new belt exactly as the old belt was as per teeth between pulleys, then reset tensioner, turn the engine over by hand a few times and verify that all your marks line up. Of course, if you want to be acurate, then use a degree wheel and dial indicator. If you do, you will probably find that the marks on the cam will not line up exactly with the marks on cam caps. Again, there are several very good threads on covering this subject.
It sure is !! Thanks again Birdman .. some day maybe see a Bird as your avitar ? I feel much better now as I put all the parts back together wheew.
BTW, The injected cars have a tiny tick mark on the back edge of the cam gear mounting flange. It's intended to be used in conjunction with NLA factory tool that sits over the cams & has markings that line up with these marks. I incorporated the markings into my 2V cam lock tool. You have to get the angle just right to look between the tool & the cam gear, but you can see the marks. See 4Webers pix in this thread: http://ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=40071
I personally wouldn't be satisfied to know that the paint marks on the cam sprocket look 'OK'. The honest answer is that very small adjustments in relation to the timing marks on the cams to the goal posts on the cam journals make a huge difference. Just my .02 after retiming my cams.
