simple solution for 348 slow windows

LOL!

Don't forget the scotch.

 

You're not gonna forget now, are ya?

 

My car has been in the shop for awhile, but today I took Frazer's box down to install and test it. I took the passenger door panel off of the 308QV, and my mechanic installed the box while I took some photos.

After removing the door panel, to get to the window motor wires you have to remove the speaker. From there, you can see the standard spade connectors which are enclosed in white plastic covers.
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My mechanic made a couple of "sub-harness" Y-connectors to splice in Frazer's relay box without having to cut any wires and so that the car could be reverted back to stock if desired.
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Here's a picture of how it was connected to test it before we actually put it all back together. My car doesn't have a windows speed problem during the summer when the weather is warm, so this isn't the ideal time to test it, but we still got interesting results. Without the box, the passenger window went down in 5 seconds and up in 7. In winter, however, it can take as long as 20 seconds to raise the window, and I presume that's because the old grease becomes like thick molasses in the cold, and I'll want to check out how different the stock/old driver's side window speed is compared to the now "Frazer-Supercharged" passenger side window. However, for now during this 95 degree day, we indeed saw a 20% improvement, with window down travel time to 4 seconds, and window up travel time at 5 seconds. One thing that my mechanic also noted after the changeover, and I could tell once he mentioned it, the window motor *sounded* more smooth, like it didn't have to work so hard.

If you notice from the pictures, I have large speakers... they are the largest Focal model that would fit in the stock holes. I *think* that if you had stock speakers with smaller magnets, the box would fit tucked behind them along the bottom of the door inside channel. In my car, the only place to put it was above the window motor and the inside door-handle assembly. We used strips of automotive high-strength indoor/outdoor foam tape to stick the box to the inside of the door. We put heat-shrink tubing over all the connectors and ran the ground wire through a convenient lightening (or access) hole to one of the window motor bolts, making sure the bolt area was nice and clean for a good ground.

Mission accomplished! As I said, I look forward to really seeing how much the difference is during winter, and I'll report back.
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As usual, a 1st class post, Mike.

Thanks!
Wes

 

Mike,

MANY THANKS!!! The magic window boxes arrived here yesterday and your instructions and pics will make installing them a breeze.

 

Installed them in the 308 and the windows do work much better. Bravo!

 

Good to hear!

 

Did you do any timing of before-and-after?

 

Alas no, but i know the windows and know they are slow. Guess proof is the very last inch or so now goes all the way up on the driver's side. Of course today is red hot, but on the good side was only using the very small battery power (Enersys PC680). Tag me back in November when it is snowing

 

I just picked up the 308 from the shop (where it's been for several weeks), and I wasn't thinking about the "window treatment" as I was enjoying the smooth engine response (new injectors)... but since I also wanted to enjoy the air conditioning having been topped off, I put the windows up... and did a double-take when the passenger side window was so much faster and smoother than the driver's side window. It *does* definitely make a nice difference, even here during summer time. I'm going to get a box for the driver's side... no reason to wait for winter after all! Thanks Frazer!

 

Think this might help slow windows on the Dino?

 

The trouble has been the poor Ferrari window motor wiring(Ferrari wiring in general). They have a massive voltage drop/problem to the window motors which make them slow. If your Dino is suffering such symptoms, then by all means, get these kits. I still cant believe how quick my passenger window goes up and down now.

 

Dear all,

Like all 348 brotherhoods, I always try to make the beauty fuction better. After cheching the up and down time for both windows, it take 5 & 5 seconds for driver side, 5 & 8 for passenger side by the switch in the driver and 4 & 7 seconds from the switch in the passenger. Can theses kit make they even faster? If they do, I will be more than happy to order.

Best regards

Chenshan

 

They are quick windows you have there mate. Not sure if these kits would benefit your windows any more. Id be happy to leave them be.

 

Thanks! I know they are just not as quick as my other German cars and it's not fair to make such comparison. I just want to make sure if my windows can be even faster.

 

If your windows wind up and down in those times then you are doing well, my module will help but it will be a minor improvement. The windows on these cars as you said will never be comparable to modern cars. Where my Module comes into play is where you have cars that really struggle especially at the top where the last 3 or so inches are closing. As the window slows the current wants to flow but cant because of the thin long wires used. My module allows more of the current to flow and therefore reduces the slowing of the last 3 or so inches. I am happy for you to test one and return it if your car doesn't really improve as long as it is returned in the same condition. email me direct if you wish to go any further with this. Regards Frazer

 

Already send you a email. Chenshan

 

bump so i can find thread. my windows in my 308 are slow......

 

Its a simple circuit. Let's call the wires 'red wire' and 'blue wire'. To go up, 'red wire' has voltage and 'blue wire' is grounded. To go down, 'blue wire' has voltage and 'red wire' is grounded.

11v is available at the window switch. Problem is the 2v voltage drop from switch to window PLUS the 2v drop from window back to switch. Motor gets paltry 7v. The voltage drop can be halved by:

Use 2 relays. 'Red wire' to coil #1. 'Blue wire' to coil #2. 'Red wire' to contact of relay #2. 'Blue wire' to contact of #1. Both relay armatures and both relay coil return gets a super good ground.

If 'red wire' gets voltage, relay #1 gives good ground to 'blue wire' elliminating the ground volage drop, improving the motor voltage from 7v to 9v. and versa vica

Taking bow. thanks for the applause.

You really want really fast...put fused battery voltage in the door and use 2 DPDT relays wired a bit different. No voltage drop whatsoever. The ultimate fix.

 

Bow? lol, I did toy with the idea of batteries in the door but for obvious reasons like the cost of batteries, the weight of them when the doors get closed / slammed, the maintenance, charging them, charging circuits, back feeds and so on, I soon moved onto designing something different. it was only after testing my final circuit idea ( there was a few ) some of which were in the middle of the night on a scrap of paper, lol that I realised I was there and the job was satisfactory. Batteries in the door will defiantly be fast agreed but defiantly not The ultimate fix. In my opinion the ultimate fix is to take the car apart and replace the wiring. I did not fancy this large job and its not something that the majority of owners would consider. ( simple, cheap, functional ) is what I have got here for every one.

 

One more very satisfied user of these boxes, thanks Frazer!! I have now used it about 1.5 months and it certainly improved speed when engine was off. Easy to install, works very well and very cheap as well, what more to ask!!!

 

Great, and thanks! every time I here of another happy customer I feel more of a ' worthy brother ' as people keep saying, lol, Worthy brother..... make me feel a real part of it, cool and happy window winding !!!

 

I was one of those "show me first" kind of guys, so I only did the passenger side first. Within a few days after having it installed, I ordered a box for the driver's side! Sure, I could make my own with relays, but why bother? And I like giving recognition (and a little money) to the guy who came up with the fix in the first place.