Right, there must have been "something" about the bags I got from the Hotel that caused the blotches. I use a lot of poly pastic sheating in consruction work, for things like vapor barriers, floor/dust protection, etc and the stuff you get from home centers doesn't have any film/oil/etc on them, but the whole experience with the blotches have scared me off from plastic as a whole.
"ResistAll" is one of the professionally-applied sealants. This was on my XLR-V when I got it, and the car's surface is extremely slick. Haven't tested it with sap yet, however! http://www.ctpc.com
You park your Testarossa under big pine trees? Sap and bird droppings are death to paint - I had a Honda where a bird dropping left on for 1 day left a permanent burn spot in the paint. I would absolutely get a car cover, no question about it. I know it's a pain, but sheesh... (I'm sitting here in pain thinking of a TR living the life of an old beater...)
A detailer/paint shop told me about this years ago. Works great, use gently, apply wax to area, done.
Isopropyl alcohol (IPA), a solvent, or turpentine, which is made from tree resins, in severe cases it can be used to break down the resin in tree sap, use as a last resort only and use sparingly and do not rub hard and give it some time to work or use detailers clay. Once you remove the sap deposits, the paint or clear may be cracked, which may entail some expensive refinishing. Factors as to the amount of time it takes to remove sap and what damage it has caused are dependent on temperature and time the sap has been on the paint surface. Be careful and take your time removing it, remember always let the products do the work for you. Tree sap that is still soft can be removed by soaking with Isopropyl Alcohol (or Stoners Terminator) wet the area with the product and allows it to remain on the surface for 3-5 minutes, then wipe with soft dry towel. For tree sap that has hardened, carefully scrape the top of the spot off with a plastic razor blade to expose the softer sap inside. Apply Zainos ZPC Fusion with a foam applicator and then remove residue or soak a towel with the solvent placing it over the sap and let soak for 10-minutes, repeat in order for the solvents to break down the sap, once its removed re-apply sealant / wax protection of your choice. If the paint has been etched the surface can be levelled with a suitable polish and then apply a paint protection Insect honeydew (sometimes mistaken for tree resin(Sap) is excreted by aphids or scale insects that infest the leaves and branches Sticky residue should be removed as soon as possible as it could compromise the clear coat. Remove as per tree sap Notes: a) Use caution if you use WD-40 for sap removal, as it contains hydrocarbon solvents, which may compromise the integrity of the clear coat causing it to occlude (clouding or yellowing). b) Avoid using a QD spray to flush residue, as they contain either carnauba wax or polymer sealants, which will seal the acid and not allow it to dissipate. Using an alkaline rinse of baking soda and water (to neutralize the acid) as soon as is practical is highly recommended, if the affected paintwork is not neutralized any remaining acid residue will be reactivated. c) If the paint or glass surface has been etched the surface can be levelled with a suitable polish, then apply a paint protection.
I got some tree sap on my car while attending a party. I didn't even notice it. Later I see these clear bumps. I thought it was hardened sap over the paint. I took it to a detail shop and they said sap causes the pigment to blister into the clearcoat. The bumps are under the clearcoat in the paint. I'm very upset. At least I got some advice before trying to rub/solvant off the sap. The detailer said that wet sanding could take it out but he recommended not doing it as it is minor. To my eyes the former perfect paint has blisters and blemishes and dots of raised pigment. Man everytime I take my car out something bad goes on. I'm still in the "drive it it is a car camp" (in fact I ended its low milage already). Still when people say chips and dings can be fixed, I feel like tree sap must be avoided at all cost because it damages more so. Wish I knew before. Anyone know if wet sanding is a good solution.
The Clay bar will do the trick like magic. Just be sure to bring it back with wax. The bar will strip the wax , but will in no way hurt the car. I use it all the time. John
I know I posted to an old thread -did a search on tree sap- but what I wanted to say was not how to remove it, but if you park under a tree and do not inspect your car and remove sap it will ruin your paint. Mine has bubbles and it is not sap. Seems very serious. Yesterday I washed my car and parked it for a few minutes under a tree while cleaning up and when i got into the garage there were lots of sap splotches. I got all I could but in the garage under a single bulb it is hard to find every one.
You have covered all my ideas. Bug & Tar. Goof Off. Get a lockable car cover that breathes and doesn't take up much room to store in the trunk. Worth every penny. Thick, heavy covers suck. Put your red Ferrari cover on first, then the waterproof cover to prevent tiny scratches. It's a dirty world out there and we are at war. But it is a war that we can and must win.
Ross: My wife's advice is to use olive oil. Gentle on the paint, dissolves the sap, wipe it off. Seems appropriate for an Italian car, don't you agree? Ed
having kids I stumbled into this one, baby wipes! I've yet to find something they don't clean. amazing stuff and cheap, well if your not buying them daily