do we have a 63-67 vette guy on here ??

That looks like a decent example. It is the 350 horse option and with the sidepipes is a nice touch and gives it a great sound. The ignition was changed over but nice the original parts are still with it. This appears to be a decent driver. I would say thats gotta be somewhere in the high 40's to start. The coupes look great. 66's will be a bit cheaper than the 67's. Maybe even shoot for a 65. You should check out ProTeam-Corvettes also. They have a ton of vettes and many "drivers" at some "reasonable" prices.

 

I had the oppurtunity to see a 65 a few weeks back. It had a 393 or 396 cu. in. engine with the side pipes. I thought it was a great looking car. The bodywork creates a presence that I have only felt with a few other cars. The owner did say it gets hot inside the car.

 

Ask SMS http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/member.php?u=3578

 

Looks clean. Kind of a rare color. Great engine for a daily driver, as it has plenty of giddy-up without the hassles of a big block. If the numbers match on the engine that is a good sign, but I would want to inspect it first for body work, and cheap aftermarket trim parts. These old fiberglass cars can be a bear to get right if somone has crunched it. $40k is probably a good number if the car is unhurt. Im curious why you chose this particular car?

 

I concur with "lotustt" this car is like mid-forties to start. It looks good in the pics but lots of small details never show up in photos. The number one problem with these cars is rust in the frames, just in front of the rear wheels at the kick-up. Next is the trailing arms, they are two layers of metal and rust starts in between the layers and they appear "swelled" from the rear. Another biggie is front bumper alignment. Are the bumpers straight with the bodywork? It's actually very hard to get this back into #1 shape if there was an accident. The bumpers should be level and spaced evenly, and the headlight buckets and bumper should be in line. Another bad area to look at is rust in the windshield frame area. If there are bulges or bubbling around the windshield that is not a good sign. Another spot to look at is the front nose section cut-outs for the headlights. There should be nice, radiused corners in the cut outs. Often times aftermarket front ends will have sharp corners or uneven radii around the head light buckets. Look for factory bonding strips around the inside of the front fenders, there are several. Do expect some repairs to the nose because it was very common to have a light bump or collision.

Overall this car looks nice from the pics. And if the owner went to the trouble to install AC in a nice clean way that actually says a lot about the dependability of the car. The wiriing harness looks pretty butchered up but that is an easy fix.

I spend 6 years of my life restoring a 63 slit-window coupe and when I was done the car was too nice to drive. I did the Bloomington stuff and all that. The car was perfect....and I panicked everytime I had to park it or leave it unattended. This car is a very nice driver car and in my opinion THAT is the one to have now-a-days. The styling of the mid-year vettes is totally awesome and will never be equalled. You'd almost swear an Italian designed it !!! If this car is solid you will be happy spending up to maybe $50k or $55k but no more. The big block cars is where the money is at. You can get a decent '66 427 car for around $60 if you look hard enough. Something to think about. But all in all these are really great cars with disc brakes and a tight suspension. Hard to believe they are 40 years old!

 

Still have my '67 427 Roadster I bought new in '68. (they couldn't sell them then). As stated above...it is a design for the ages...timeless. To this day...my favorite car of all time.

 

I happened to take a look at that ebay listing yesterday. Looks like a nice car, I like that color. Aftermarket air, but not a big deal if the car is otherwise unmolested. Low $40K's are a good number. carguy's list of things to look for is excellent.

If you're looking for a good driver I know of a Goodwood Green/tan 327/350 '67 convertible for $48K just NW of Chicago, have also seen a good driver red/red 327/365 '65 coupe in FL, but it's resonably priced ($40K) and there's a line of people looking at it.

I'm always looking around for Corvettes, although we do mostly C3's at the moment. I'll let you know if I find any good midyear drivers.

 

I've got 2 66's. This car is a nice driver. Faded carpet is easy enough to replace. I'm almost positvie KO wheels were really only came with goldline tires, but thats a small detail only a few would care about.

Engine looks good with all the right parts and not hacked up. 327/350 came with alum intake, finned covers, which this car has. Ignition sheilding is still there which is a piece that often diassapears. Appears to be origianl exhaust manifolds.... lots of the right pieces.

Overall when it comes to matching #'s, the short version is that the engine "block" should have the last 8-10 numbers (don't recall the exact # right now) of the "cars" VIN # on the enigne pad after the engine suffix. That pad is located passenger side of the engine in front of the head and towards the H2O pump.

The car will have a trim tag under the glove box which will have the colors and interior combo as well as the built date an location.

As for the rest of the parts, each major engine part... intake, exhaust mainfold, alt, rad, expansion tank, etc all will have a date code and those codes shoule pre-date the built date of the body. Say this car was built in April 66 (sometimes a 4 or a D), every major part should have date code of april or prior...even back into late 1965 model year.

IMO, this car shouldn't get out of the 40's. I would consider both of my cars to be just a little bit better in detail to this one...just a little and I honestly think of them as $38-$42K cars.

65-67 SB corvettes are fun and easy to drive, easy to keep original or NOS and are pretty easy to work on. They are not for long drives, can have problems with the headlights (motors) and you'll smell of exhaust when you arrive at you destination with the offroads, but overall are kick in the ass fun and not so expensive that you are affraid to drive them.

 

henryr the 'mid-year' Corvettes have had quite a following for many years. However there is a 'pecking order' to the various years. At the very top is the 1967 model and next is the 1963 coupe, then 1966, 1965 and last the 1964. obviously special options like fuel injection will distort the order some but coupes are less popular than convertibles. The 1963 coupe is the only exception to this logic...
Builders have gotten so good at re-stamping numbers that it is very difficult to tell what you have anymore just going by the numbers shown. Bigger dealers seem to make their margin in the difference between book value and how they rate (stretch) the condition of the Corvette they are offering.

There have been other good points to look for listed here on condition etc. but a couple of things like the actual lines of the car; are they crisp or have they been sanded off due to numerous paint jobs and it is nice to see the little lip on the edge of the wheel well has not been repaired.
As with any old car rust is the real enemy. One last thought, the 1967 Corvette that you could buy for $4,800 in 1978 (a real nice numbers matching big block coupe) kind of leaves a bitter taste when they ask $120,000 for it today. I can think of some other places I would park 50k but the mid-years are a fun experience, if you buy right!
horse fan

 

I have been fortunate to own a few of these cars and can provide you with some very reliable sources.

Feel free to send me a PM.

Best of luck in your search.

 

I was hired by owner of this to shoot for auction. Will be in World Wide Group Auction in November.... Not the right years but I like what I came up with
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That is just unbelievably gorgeous writerguy!!

 

1300 orig miles Doccumented....

Couple of others going in same group

 

Nice looking car! I went on a ride with the local NCRS chapter last Friday, 1 guy brought his perfect red/red '58. The early ones drive like trucks, but they sure do look nice on the road.

 

You're going to pay based on what this is worth to other people?

 

The 63 vette split window is one of my favorite. But the 67 427/435 roadster is amazing. AJ is your car a 435hp car and do you still have the documentation?

 

Yes and yes. I remember the day in '68......as a kid not old enough to have a license yet.....bought the Marlboro Maroon car. With my OWN money by the way....no Moms help.lol.

 

I can only imagine the look on the sales guys face. Has the car been restored or is it all orignal? Ive seen many vettes sell at Barret Jackson but have never seen a orignal owner 427/435hp car. Id never want to sell that car.

 

And it won't ever be sold. It is original...perfect...with 4326 miles on it.

PS Have an original 69 Z28 DZ302 that I bought new as well.

 

Great car (and one epic paper route!).

 

Is a DZ302 car a factory modded car like a COPO or more like a Yenko or Nickey with aftermarket parts on it. I had a guess of what your vettes worth but no being all orignal with that low of miles it would bring alot more. Do you have pictures of either?