I had never seen this thread but it is impressive and exhaustive seeing it. I often tell my brother (an old mustang owner and fan) what paint jobs and restorations cost in the Ferrari world and he lauphs at me. I should show him this thread! Great work!
Can you elaborate? I don't think I've heard of yellow lights (unless you mean headlight covers). Are they standard headlights, except they're a shade of yellow? Thanks and sorry to hear about the fire. Peter
Typically in the past, the reflectors or lenses are tinted yellow in the incandescent headlights. Jon are you referring to HID or "projector beam"s as modern headlights like the 575m SuperAmerica uses? This would be exciting if you did, especially since the rumors keep building about a "new" Dino being built by Ferrari SPa using this same style of headlights!
'some great shots of the yellow French spec lights that Jon is referring to. http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=121039
That's very pretty. I think it will go well with the blue paint. Have you decided on interior color yet? If not, I'll put in a vote for red. Peter
I'm about finished refurbishing all the engine parts, painting the aluminum etc, I tried the glyptal on the sump pans, so will see how that works out. The engine and gearbox are ready for assembly. The next project is the carbs. I've been studying up on that project. Any helpful advice here before I start. The body is coming along being block sanded and several items are done. Anybody had any experience with Lynx air filters. They sure look a lot better than the stock parts. These are just random shots of the parts that are ready for assembly. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Looks great. You may have read the posts about leaky cam end seals which is a common problem, when assembling you have an opportunity to address this. The transaxle fill plugs tend to get frozen in their seats over time, perhaps using some anti-seize would help when you install them.
The carb rebuild is easy. Get a kit with the new needle valves, orings,gaskets and sealing washers, acc pump. Take the carbs apart including the needle valves and floats, acc pump. Take all the jets out keeping track of which jet belongs in which choke. Take out the mixture screws etc.. be careful with the air bypass screws because they might be stuck and you can break one off in the carb (dont ask how I know) I wouldn't take the throttle shaft and butterfly out unless there is a problem there. send the carb bodies to be dipped in carb cleaner and have the passages blown out. DIY if you have the chenmicals. I think some places use ultrasonic cleaners. clean all the jets and other bits in lacquer thinner...keep track of what goes where. clear up the fasteners and linkage parts and replate but not too thick because the fasteners will be too tight (don't ask how I know) I wouldn't replate the mixture screws because I would worry that the extra thickness might screw something up. You can buy new ones if you want...just make sure they are exactly the same. ferrari UK has some of the parts (springs, screws etc... for purchase cheap) reassemble the same way you took apart. they will be beautiful. some say you should re-seat the lead plugs with a punch but I didn't find that necessary. If an expert was doing it i think they would ream out the seats for the jets but that requires special weber tools and i dont think is necessary if you keep track of where each jet came from and put them back prpperly.
Some kind of subscriber user limit perhaps?? Lemme see... Nope. Must be some kind of software limit as to how many pix (maybe by mb) can be put in one thread. Might be time to start a new thread "Dino Restoration Parte Due!!" Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
That stinks I REALLY don't like this set up, as when you are scrolling through a thread, (particularly one like this) to get some priceless info it will now take AGGGGGGEs! Bummer to whoevers crap idea this was.
no not a new thread...please no. If you look at the first page of this thread, some pics you have to click on and some pics show up. Same with other places in f-chat, some have pics show up and some you have to click, including the famous bikini thread. Since it just showed up site wide, I assume it is a boo-boo on the configuration and it will get fixed, patience.
Nice work! I don't mean to make you nervous, and I know a lot of people use Glyptal to aid in oil return, casting porosity, etc., but I had a near bad experience with it. I used it on the inside of a spotlessly clean cast iron block (Healey 3.0 inline six) and it flaked off clogging most of the oil pickup screen. Fortunately, I change the oil on a new engine at 100 (& then again at 1000) miles, so it was caught right away. Draining the oil, which I look at very closely, revealed all these little red flakes; off with the pan and the real story was told. I removed what Glyptal was left with aerosol carb cleaner. For a modern alternative, I highly recommend Techline Coating's Dry Film Lubricant. Every engine I've built since discovering their products about fifteen (15) years ago has been treated with the full complement of dry film lubricant, thermal barrier and thermal dispersant polymer coatings. http://www.techlinecoatings.com/ As for the Webers, they'll be simple in comparison to that transaxle you have laid out Only real issue with them is getting all the varnish out of the float bowls and passageways (NAPA sells a real agressive carb cleaner in a bucket with dipping screen__WEAR your protective equipment__gloves AND glasses). Here's a sidedraft 45 DCOE laid out; downdrafts only differ in detail, not function. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
"don't know squat about Glyptal. However, am I reading the label correctly? It says "Red Insulating Enamel." Hmmm. If that's heat-insulating, that's not a good thing.
If no leaks THROUGH casting before tear down, better just take it off. One less thing to worry about. If the factory didn't do it, probably not a good idea. Chances of bad casting pretty small after all these years. Carbs are simple and only wear part is float needle. Don't remove throttle shaft or plates. Clean everything, make sure that idle progression holes are clear. Change needle if 10x magnifier shows any wear or deformation. Set floats per book. Put a little light oil on bearings after thoroughly dry. Put back together with new O-rings on idle jets. Start with air bypass screws closed, idle jets out 1 1/2 turns. Should be fine to start. John
