To those of you who know or may have researched lifts: I checked the archives but didn't find my specific question answered. I am considering a Rotary or similar two-post lift for a future property. They have two basic designs, symmetrical and asymmetrical. They list their advantages as follows: Asymmetrical: -- Places center of gravity of vehicle in line with columns optimal load capacity -- Allows maximum opening of door for interior access Symmetrical: -- Vehicle load is centered between posts to maximize lift capacity -- More width between columns for larger vehicles I am looking for the lift for maintenance purposes, not to increase the storage in the garage. Which lift is more appropriate to working on mid-engine cars in general, and specifically Ferraris where the rear subframe must come out for engine maintenance (TR/355/??). Considering it's hard to predict future purchases, are there any other things you would recommend thinking about when shopping for a lift or choosing a design? Thanks! -- charles
I have a Nussbaum asymmetrical and have my 355 on it right now finishing up a 30K service. Everything is clear for the sub frame to drop out, and the doors open fully. I have to say that the car must be positioned exactly, I mean within an inch. The car is backed into the hoist The posts are roughly in line with the radiators, and all arms point forward. For just an oil change, its much easier, and you drive in forward, still have to position the car pretty carefully to line up all four jack points, but the doors only open about a foot. Nussbaum is made in Germany and has given no problems in twenty years of service.
Here you go Charles, Have a read of this http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=125308&page=4&highlight=hoist
It might be a good idea to draw up a rectangle connecting the jack points of your cars and see if the swing arms of the lifts you are looking at can accommodate that rectangle. The Nussbaum does it just barely.
I bought a lift from American Custom lifts about 9 months ago. Nice guys who did everything they said they would but I'm not that pleased with the function of the lift for sports cars. I don't think they should have sold it to me. I can't emphasize enough to measure the lift and figure out the geometry to be certain the arms fits within the wheel base, that the pads are low enough to clear your car, and that you can reach the lift points. In my experience, most of the lifts are designed to raise a basic sedan. To lift my GT3 I have to drive the car on planks to get it high enough to clear the arms. It takes 15 minutes of moving the car forward and backward and then jacking the back to get it on the lift. If I had it to do over, I would have spent much more time asking the questions you are. Once it's installed it's pretty permanent. That said, the safety and security of the two post for maint. is terrific.
To get my car positioned perfectly I used a set of car dollies. This has the added benefit of raising the car high enough to swing the arms under it. Its a pain in the azz to do, but probably easier that moving the car around with a floor jack.
My 308 is low enough that I have to drive the car onto 2x10 planks to get the car up off the floor enough to swing the arms under. Other than that, a 2 post is a breeze....love it. My arms are symmetrical and opening the doors is a pain (it can be done....if you're skinny). It would be interesting to compare the ease of use of an asymmetrical lift. Birdman
That is a very profound statement, and xlnt advice for anyone considering a two-post lift. I haven't had any trouble getting any of my cars positioned for lifting, but I have to pull in to just the right spot and be nearly perfectly centered for the arms to hit my jacking points. Ideally, the arms would all be a few inches shorter. The height is close, but so far, no lumber required. Image Unavailable, Please Login
I've had a 15 year old 7K lb 2-post Nussbaum Assymetric lift for 4 or 5 years now. Other than needing to drive 3x8s up on 2x12s to get the height for the arms, it's been great. If I were building a garage floor from scratch, I'd recess the lift mount points into the floor & thus avoid needing the 2x12s, but it was a pre-existing garage. I've used it for a lot of 308s, a 348, and a host of family & friend's cars (Rx7s, Jeep Wranglers,Olds Custom Cruiser Wagon, Toyota Camry, Mercury Cougar, even a 12 hp lawn tractor...) My lift arms are plenty long, and have plenty of adjustment. I haven't found positioning for lifting to be an issue. Several inches either way doesn't make a difference. EXCEPTION: I agree that when dropping a engine sub-frame from ANY mid-engine car, you've got to have the lift points dead on. When the subframe/engine is removed, the car becomes qquite nose heavy. However, the OM & WSM are very specific about where to support the car when removing the sub-frame/engine.
Make that scary nose heavy, I pull the front wheels and empty the luggage compartment off before it gets more than a few inches off the ground.
