Great work on the GT4! I love that car. My '79 308GTB's carpets also look rather blue-violet when photographed with an electronic flash. In person, they are much blacker. I have decided to refinish all my leather back to dark navy, as was original for my car. I did the seats over about 5 years ago and used a gray-blue that matched the grigio exterior nicely. The car is now bright silver and the original dark navy will be best. Here are a couple of pictures of a door panel with the Connolly finish stripped off (of the exposed areas). The original navy color remains under the door pocket, speaker opening and armrest areas. The staining is from the original Connolly finish and the lacquer thinner used to strip it off. This is now bare leather waiting for Leatherique's Rejuvinator Oil then blue dye. The little stretched 'dimple' above the speaker opening (and another smaller mark above the door pocket) was caused long ago by an washer that fell between the leather and the padding. The washer is now gone and the dimple will be shrunk with a little carefully applied water-soak and a hair drier. This could not be done until the Connolly finish was removed leaving the leather once again permeable. - rick Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Thanks for the comments. I used a spray gun and diluted the dye by eyeballing it to increase the total volume about 20-25% with distilled water and sprayed at 40psi. I did not really experiment to find optimal settings, the first one I did worked OK with these parameters so I did not change. I like to keep an open mind on the 'best' way to do things. I would like to see your progress and your application techinique.
Thanks. You are right on the mark with your application technique and pressure. Being a water-based product, air pressure and air-to-paint mixture is important. If you try to spray this stuff like solvent-based paint, it will go on like Windex from a spray bottle! I found that a very light first coat, almost a dusting, will put down a base for subsequent coats. The goal is to put new paint over partially cured older paint. That allows the moisture of the new layer to not only evaporate but also be absorbed into the substrate or paint and leather below. Once a good base of paint is applied, I apply one final 'wet' coat for a smooth uniform finish. Too much paint and it looks like plastic, too little and it is not rugged. The gauge I use is that I layer the paint on but do not exceed the point where I can't see the leather grain. That way, when it cures and shrinks a bit, the grain is still presented nicely. -rick
As I restore 308 GT4 #14582 I am posting the progress for all interested to see. So far, 7000 views. My aim is to eventually compile this thread and save it to a disk that will be a permanent part of 14582's history. Although this is a 'self-restoration' rather than a 'professional-restoration,' my hope is that your contributions and comments will add credibility to the work. Therefore, I encourage comments and criticisms by those viewing this thread. This 'credibility' comes form the assumption that the 'real experts' and 'armchair experts' out there are not going to let this preservation project degenerate in to a chrome wheeled, fuzzy dashboard, turbocharged nightmare with wings and spoilers. Preservation of the mark is not something I conceived, and I do not claim to be the world's authority on the concept. The Ferrari Club of America has many interested parties that have, throughout the years, come up with criteria for preservation that I find agreeable and would like to conform to. (Though I am open to other suggestions). I think the FCA concourse guidelines (http://www.ferrariclubofamerica.org/concours_guidelines.cfm) reflect a knowledgeable set of criteria on which one would base a restoration project. For those not familiar with the document item 10 is a nice summary: "The key purpose of the concours is to promote the preservation of the Ferrari in its original state. Therefore, the primary focus of the judging will be on originality, authenticity and condition with minor emphasis on cosmetics. Deductions will be made for over-restoration; extravagance detracts from originality. Applied patina is discouraged. Spyder conversions and unauthorized rebodies are ineligible for judging. Over-cleanliness is unnecessary; some slight road dust and wear is to be expected. Ferraris are meant to be driven." Again, I encourage comments and criticisms; you are the judges! You comments will be part of this cars permanent history. Thanks
I checked the Ferrari owner's site (https://www.owners.ferrari.com) and, indeed, they list 308 GT4 parts for sale. I browsed the selection and made some mental notes. I also have read parts of the thread on Ferrari Classiche hypothetical restoration of a 308 (http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=111569) This links to an article about the Ferrari Classiche program and indicates that two 400 series cars are being restored for a (presumably wealthy) "middle eastern" client. (http://www.classicdriver.com/uk/magazine/popup_print.asp?print=true&lPageID=3300&id=13060) My impressions of the above are demonstrated in this hypothetical situation: A 308 being restored by Ferrari Classiche requires a new fuel pump. Everything I have seen so far indicates that the 'official' Ferrari replacement is the FACET fuel pump. This is the one listed as the replacement on the Ferrari Owner's site parts list. I presume the Classiche restoration would, therefore, replace the hypothetical 308's malfunctioning fuel pump with a FACET. There are going to be many 308's out there that still have the functioning Corona pump. At least 2 have been rebuilt (mine http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showpost.php?p=136138623&postcount=136 and Peter's http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showpost.php?p=135637912&postcount=5) So, in a concourse competition, which is going to be correct, the 308 with 'factory restoration' and a FACET pump or the one with a CORONA pump? My point is that I suspect the Classiche restoration would involve using many 'superceeded' part numbers, especially when dealing with a 400 or 308, in order to keep the cost reasonable.
There will be no such thing as "reasonable" when refferring to the cost of having Ferrari restore a car for you
That bulb looks like a common, air-cooled VW bulb. Any VW after-market parts shop should carry them. They are a Porsche 914 part as well: http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/ksearch/PEL_search.cgi?command=show_part_page&please_wait=N&make=POR&model=9144§ion=INTtrm&page=1&bookmark=6&part_number=900-631-106-90-M97 Should be the last item on the above URL, Interior Lamp Bulb 12v, part number 900-631-106-90-M97. Judging by the pictures, it'd be the correct size bulb.
I had mentioned previously that the braided replacement hose I have for the crankcase blowby system is too large in O.D. to allow use of the factory original clamps(http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showpost.php?p=136082264&postcount=113). These clamps from eagleday look similar and are zinc-gold plated and are as close as I have found so far:http://eagleday.stores.yahoo.net/normaclamps.html Image is from the eagleday site. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Here is another festoon bulb that is a little shorter:http://www.go2marine.com/product.do?no=16152F Image Unavailable, Please Login
Jerry from coker tire (mini_ferrari on f-chat) has offered a discount on XWX tires. He has also indicated a price increase for Jan first. I am not going to be pressured into buying now by such tactics... However, worse than a price increase would be that in a few years when I am 'ready to buy' the tires may no longer be avaliable. So, I placed the order yesterday. Delivery in 4-5 days. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Ricambi has the weber tool for the toolkit. The part numbers match with that shown in the parts manual, part number 100520. Ordered, and should arrive shortly. http://www.ricambiamerica.com/product_info.php?cPath=21_732&products_id=188510 Image Unavailable, Please Login
The Michelin XWXs came today. The 14" wheels on the car now have been re-sprayed a silver that is not right. Also, the finish is not smooth, like the wheels are corroded, and they just sprayed over the corrosion. Anyway, I am planning on taking the wheels to a wheel restoration shop and have them re-finish the wheels then have them mount and balance the XWX's. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Make certain that your wheel shop knows about the need to rinse the bare mag wheels with a zinc chromate stabilizer, and to use a special similar primer paint. Conventional wheel paint won't work well when applied to bare magnesium. Search the archives if this is new info for you, as it's been discussed a lot in the past. Cheers - DM
Thanks for the heads up. Transwheel has an outlet in Medina, (http://www.motomotion.com/aboutUs.php) that I will be using. Initial contact indicated no problem doing these wheels. I still need to confirm that they will use the correct primer and find out how they plan on dealing with the valve stems. Motomotion had some 14" 308 wheels that were re-finished on e-bay a while back and that is how I made contact with them.
wow...just found this thread. I am jealous - restoring that car looks like fun. I don't know how you find the time, but it looks very relaxing!
Hey Beta, I don't own a GT4, have never been 'that' interested in them, and to be honest, haven't given them much of a second glance at Ferrari shows... until your thread. What kind of KoolAid did you put in your posts, I can't stop reading them! I have a new-found respect for the cars and certainly the job you're doing on yours. I quoted the above because I thought you MIGHT have been serious about 'tactics' when in fact you'd have been doubly p.o.'d if he'd NOT let you know about the upcoming increase. I'm in marketing, so perhaps a little sensitive there. Coker is straight up. Expensive, but hey, they found a niche and serve it well. Enjoy your GT4. If you go to sell it, put me on the list.
I forgot the smiley face on the coker post, I am really happy with them and may get some testarossa tires from them also. Thanks for your comments on the GT4. I was really inspired by this web site (http://www.fugazi.co.uk/308/400i.htm) showing the restoration of a 400i to concourse condition. Britt Rothman's 400i resotration involved re-plating many parts and I am kind of in a bind to do any re-plating for a number of reasons. One is that the nearest cad plating is 45 minutes away (that's a long drive when one works 7 days a week). Second is that this spring and summer, my car was an example of a 'rolling restoration' in that I always tried to have the car back together and working at the end of a day or at the end of a weekend, so I could still drive it around. Now that it has snowed I may be in a position to have things torn apart for a longer perior of time to get some plating done.
Thanks for the confirmation, here is the link to the correct cap: http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showpost.php?p=136254531&postcount=187
I dropped two wheels and 2 XWX tires off at Transwheel. They seemed to know what they were doing. The salesperson was very knowlegeable about restoring these wheels. In fact, they had a set of 308 TRX wheels in the showroom (this is in Medina, Ohio, in the middle of nowhere). These TRX wheels were restored with what looked like a very original finish. I could see where someone had marked "magnesium" on them (in the area that you can't see when the tire is mounted). I know everyone hates these TRX wheels, but if one is doing a vintage restoration and spending the $$$ on the XWX, you might have bought the TRX tires, which are really a much better tire. Of course the TRX wheels never came on the GT4, I am just using this as an example. The young lad who helped me unload the wheels and tires form the back of my car did, however, comment "...so you putting snow tires on?..." when he saw the XWX's. I had to inform him that in 1970 (before he was born) these where the tires of supercars and that the tires now cost over $350 a piece. I asked them to give me back the 60 series 225 Michelin Pilots that are currently mounted as these are NLA and I am sure someone will want them on e-bay, as they are practically new. Pilots are great tires and I have them on my BMW M3 and seeing them next to the skinny XWXs I could see how one might question why one would want to change over. On paper it would seem that these 14" Pilots would be 'just the ticket' to increase performance without having to get new wheels. However, they make the car ride like a truck. The steering, with the 255s in the front is incredibly hard when they are inflated to 30. They are a little better at 35 psi but the ride is much worse. The car just does not feel right with these 225 tires. In terms of track or skid pad performance, I would expect that the rear camber would need to be reduced somewhat to get the maximum benefit.
This is the Michelin Pilot 225/60/14 that will be replaced by the XWX. I guess you would not mistake this for a snow tire, but the ride is just no good. Image Unavailable, Please Login
These wheels were previously 'restored' with some silver spray paint and clear coat. They are OK from a distance but up close they are no good. Image Unavailable, Please Login
I have seen TAVOLA 36 from the 1979 308 GT4 parts manual many times but I never really paid much attention to fine print. Wheel sizes and types listed for the car are as follows: 108713 14" x 6 1/2" 108751 14" x 6 1/2" (for Japan) 108752 14" x 7 1/2" campagnolo 111290 14" x 7 1/2" cromodora **currently on SN14582** 114441 14" x 7 1/2" speedline 111965 (quantity 3) anerioriore 7J x 16" and PIRELLI P7 205/55 VR 16 111966 (quantity 2) posterioriore 8J x 16" and PIRELLI P7 225/50 VR 16 These last two are listed as "a richiesta" which may mean 'a request' as in a customer's request. So, to answer the much asked question of which tires came on the GT4 I would think the answer would be: Michelin XWX 205/70/14 (per many sources) or Goodyear Grand Prix 205/70/14 (per owner's manual) or Pirelli P7s as above (per 1979 gt4 parts manual & service bulletin SB 00-8, 7-9-81) Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login