Probably better off taking it to a reputable Auto-electrician. Im with you ND. A short somewhere or loose connection. It will be one of those pesky little problems that makes you wonder why you bother with the car. Then when you finally get it going and you hurl down the road at a great rate of knots, then you know why you have such a fine thoroughbred in your stable.
Vishal, my friend; try this, just to humor me. Undo the mounting screw at the upper right corner of the footwell fuse panel, then wiggle the panel out of the way, as shown in the picture. Look at the wiring connector behind the fuse panel (as shown by the famous "pool cue"). Check to see if either of the nuts attaching the cable terminals are loose, or if you can detect any kind of a problem with the wires, such as burnt insulation or melted plastic. If there was a problem here, it MIGHT lead to the symptoms you describe, where some things work and others don't. It isn't hard to check. Image Unavailable, Please Login
A crank/no start problem is eiter one of two things....... A. The car isn't getting gas B. There is no spark You tried spraying starting fluid and got nothing, so its probably getting fuel. You checked the spark and there is nothing............there is your problem. A no spark issue will have something to do with the motronic. Your best bet is a mechanic w/an SD2 unit that can read your codes, as I am sure that your car has thrown some. That will enable you to get to the heart of the problem ASAP. I thought that the bullit connector was a good place, but given that the car cranks, I thought that was not the problem.
Under very high resistence conditions you can have this problem. you can test and eliminate much of the ignition circuit by 1) put key in on position as in start car and let go key and leave there. 2) start car with a remote starter at the solinoid pin and the big 12V hot connection on the starter. This gives 100% crank power to the car. Also, did you check the fuses under the passenger footwell labeled centr.iniezione cyl 5-8 and the 1-4 both fuses!
Bypass the on\off switch and give it a try. I had the same problem, turned out the switch was only rated for 100 amps continous. I replaced it with one rated for 250 amps from Summit Racing.
Dear All, Okay I tried the following suggestions yet no success. a. Pulled the fusebox out as recommended by Miltonion, checked for any cables and or loose connections. Nothing. I also cleaned the cable connectors that seemed to connect to a ground. b. I also bypassed the on\off switch. c. I also checked the fuses as mentione by fatbillybob. I did not test using a starter, a little to advanced for me at this stage. The car cranks but still does not start. I have the car scheduled for pickup tomorrow to be towed to Coach Classic in Elizabeth, hopefully they can resolve it quickly. Thanks Vishal
Dear All, Okay I tried the following suggestions yet no success. a. Pulled the fusebox out as recommended by Miltonion, checked for any cables and or loose connections. Nothing. I also cleaned the cable connectors that seemed to connect to a ground. b. I also bypassed the on\off switch. c. I also checked the fuses as mentione by fatbillybob. I did not test using a starter, a little to advanced for me at this stage. The car cranks but still does not start. I have the car scheduled for pickup tomorrow to be towed to Coach Classic in Elizabeth, hopefully they can resolve it quickly. Thanks Vishal
Hmmmm. At this point I'm almost inclined to think that the car does have an aftermarket security system that's keeping it from starting, but that shouldn't cause the engine to stall at a stop sign. Have you pulled the instrument cluster (two screws) or the left dash vent to look at the common ground connector behind the left side of the dashboard? Again, it's easy to do. I HOPE your car isn't a flood recovery vehicle with corrosion in the printed circuits in the fuse panels! Image Unavailable, Please Login
I will give it a shot. I ran carfax and autocheck and spoke with the ferrari dealer in edison about the car and service record. I checked out. Thanks Vishal
Did you check the power through the fuses? If power flows then the problem is down stream of the fuebox. If no flow then the power is not getting to the box. See this helps narrow things down.
if it was me I wouldn't worry about the car not starting at this point. I'd be wondering why the gauges and lights didn't work when they once did...??? you know the electrical things first. but that's just me. I'd start with looking at the circuit diagram and try and figure out where 12v should be with the ignition key off and then with it on. in other words is there voltage where it's suppose to be, you'll need a DVM. kind of interesting when you said you screwed around with a switch on the steering column and things started lighting up. check what works and what doesn't to see which circuits if any are working. by what you've said it sounds like a lot of things aren't working. there are things that work with the key "off" i'd start there, like the hazzard lights.
if it cranks, but will not start, but there is no spark - i would check the infamous crank speed sensor connections. This can be a common source for problems. Can be found under car at front middle of engine. This was the root cause for me when I had a none start problem. good luck
Dear All, I just got the car back from the shop. After spending 3k, the car is still not functioning properly. The car was towed from the house to the dealer based on the fact it was not starting. The shop traced the problem to the fuse box which was replaced, did a minor service and dynoed the car. (260 at the wheel) First Invoice - $1700 bucks Today, I picked up the car from the dealer and drove locally for 45 minutes stopping at a atm. (I shut the car off). The car started up without a problem, however before I got on to the turnpike (within another 30 minutes), it started to behave odd (it seemed to not want to accellerate through the gears (like the clutch was not grabing- past 3 or 4k it just would rev) the check engine light came on at the toll and the car stalled. (All this happend within 20 miles from the shop) I started it up again, however the car still seemed to lack power through the gears, (after trying to rev twice and lack of response I decided to take it back. The car was very unstable. At the shop they diagnosed a bad ecu and changed the left side along with the thermocouple). They took it out for a spin came back and the computer now showed a bad right ecu, which was changed however with a used ecu since they do not have another in stock,until the new one was received. They took it for a spin again and mentioned everything was good. Second Invoice - (Control ECU cat 2.7 and and Thermocouple and labor - $935) As I started by trip back, the car started to behave the same (lack of response through the gears) however never stalled at any point! At this time there was not returning back to the shop as it was past 5 o clock. I got home, I did not try reving too much, just kept it within 3k through the gears. Other Observations: 1. In neutral the car seems to rev fine. 2. Before I had the car towed to the dealer for the no start problem, I had tried starting the car with starter fluid (could this have contributed to the problem) 3. Could the dyno have caused these problems? 4. No warning lights (check engine and or slow down) 5. Oil and other gauages look fine 6. Electrical seems to be working including radio, ac, heat, horn, lights, etc... What I have tried so far I disconnected the right Ecu, the car still performs the same (no response through the gears) I disconnected the MAFS individually and the check engine lights came on as expected. I shutoff the power by turning the knob, let the car sit for 20 minutes, and started the car for 15 minutes (idle). I will take the car out tomorrow to see resetting worked. I feel it is almost a guessing game, the shop hooked up the computer to the car, showed me the errors, I also saw them clear the problem codes (not sure if it was before or after the replacement of the right ecu). Can there be something else that is causing the problem which might make it look like the ECU. Before I take it back, any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks Vishal
Dear All, I just got the car back from the shop. After spending 3k, the car is still not functioning properly. The car was towed from the house to the dealer based on the fact it was not starting. The shop traced the problem to the fuse box which was replaced, did a minor service and dynoed the car. (260 at the wheel) First Invoice - $1700 bucks Today, I picked up the car from the dealer and drove locally for 45 minutes stopping at a atm. (I shut the car off). The car started up without a problem, however before I got on to the turnpike (within another 30 minutes), it started to behave odd (it seemed to not want to accellerate through the gears (like the clutch was not grabing- past 3 or 4k it just would rev) the check engine light came on at the toll and the car stalled. (All this happend within 20 miles from the shop) I started it up again, however the car still seemed to lack power through the gears, (after trying to rev twice and lack of response I decided to take it back. The car was very unstable. At the shop they diagnosed a bad ecu and changed the left side along with the thermocouple). They took it out for a spin came back and the computer now showed a bad right ecu, which was changed however with a used ecu since they do not have another in stock,until the new one was received. They took it for a spin again and mentioned everything was good. Second Invoice - (Control ECU cat 2.7 and and Thermocouple and labor - $935) As I started by trip back, the car started to behave the same (lack of response through the gears) however never stalled at any point! At this time there was not returning back to the shop as it was past 5 o clock. I got home, I did not try reving too much, just kept it within 3k through the gears. Other Observations: 1. In neutral the car seems to rev fine. 2. Before I had the car towed to the dealer for the no start problem, I had tried starting the car with starter fluid (could this have contributed to the problem) 3. Could the dyno have caused these problems? 4. No warning lights (check engine and or slow down) 5. Oil and other gauages look fine 6. Electrical seems to be working including radio, ac, heat, horn, lights, etc... What I have tried so far I disconnected the right Ecu, the car still performs the same (no response through the gears) I disconnected the MAFS individually and the check engine lights came on as expected. I shutoff the power by turning the knob, let the car sit for 20 minutes, and started the car for 15 minutes (idle). I will take the car out tomorrow to see resetting worked. I feel it is almost a guessing game, the shop hooked up the computer to the car, showed me the errors, I also saw them clear the problem codes (not sure if it was before or after the replacement of the right ecu). Can there be something else that is causing the problem which might make it look like the ECU. Before I take it back, any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks Vishal
Connect a voltmeter to your cigarette lighter. Take note of your voltage when: the car is off the car is idling the car is revving in Neutral the car is driving in gear above 3,000 rpms Report back here!
12.63 no keys 12.17 start position car started - 12.49 to 12.53 revving in neutral --- not much fluctuation within 12.49 and 12.60 car driving in gears above 12.69 to 12.86 I am not sure if I did it right. Just purchased a multi-meter -- connected a cigratte accessory adapter (10amp fuse in it), connected the red led to the red connection and black lead tothe black connection on the adapter. It was hard to keep the revs higher than 3 to 4k though the gears. Thanks Vishal
Those voltages seem pretty normal to me (anyone else want to weigh in?). But the rpms topping out at 4,000 is something I'd expect to see if one exhaust ECU was shutting down one bank of cylinders (could be a faulty exhaust ecu or it could be an engine problem that the exhaust ecu is correctly reacting to). I'm presuming that you aren't hearing any loud, unusual noises coming from your engine compartment, and that you aren't seeing large amounts of black, grey, blue, or white smoke coming from your tailpipes.
No loud and or unusual noises from the engine and or no large amounts of black, grey blue or white smoke.
Then I'd think that you'd want to unplug both exhaust ecu's for a brief test (when engine is cold) run. That should trigger both Check Engine Lights, but also allow you to shift gears and drive above 4000 rpms. If not, then I'd suspect a larger issue such as a clogged cat, clogged air filter, banana in your tailpipe (oops, maybe not!), or fundamental engine issue.
