how to dirve a Dino?

Havent driven a Dino but do drive a carb car know and them, secret when you you first start the car is three pumps of the accelerator then turn the key.

When driving off, keep the accelerator gradual, move you foot gradually, dont stomp down, same applies when driving te car when its warm, much better to squeeze ones foot.

 

Is the car cold when you do this?
Why do you do this?

 

For normal driving of the Dino it works better to take the motor to higher revs between shifts and be easy on the throttle doing it to avoid that annoying little pause, or mash the throttle a bit more to power past that darned pause.
I always thought that it was the accelerator pumps not doing their job and possibly needing more aggressive actuating cams on the Webers But I checked mine and they seem to be working well with no apparent ajustment mechanism. Perhap its just one of those little idiosinqcracies (spelling)? that are all part of the deal of owning a Dino.
I have often entertained the thought converting mine over to fuel injection but loosing those great sounding Webers has so far kept me from acting.

 

Sounds like he car is over fuelling. Might be an adjustment, might be a faulty carburettor. Get it looked at soon because if it is over fuelling its washing the bores with fuel & removing the oil which will cause very rapid wear to bores & piston rings

I.

 

Iain, I don't believe it is an over fueling problem but just the opposite because the problem goes away with more aggressive use of the throttle. I believe its a slight lean condition at low revs and just off the stops throttle plate positions.

 

take a look at a the accelerator pumps, sounds like the diaphragms are stiff or leaking and you are not getting enough fuel when you mash the pedal. The accelerator pumps job is to get that extra bit of gas into the motor when you first accelerate. Super easy to check and super easy to replace and cheap too

Take off the air cleaners so you can see into the carbs, with the engine off either pump the throttle yourself using the carb linkage or have a friend pump the gas pedal. You will see gas being squirted into the barrels, it should be consistent across all the carbs.

Another item is that the passage way could be blocked but first swap the diaphragm.

another option would be timing, if your advance is not working quite right for example sticky advance weights, but easy and more likely things first, the accelerator pumps.

 

Probably timing. Get out a timing light and see what is happening. Advance mechanism bad? Points barely opening? Both cause funny accceleration problems, both hot and cold. And in all cylinders. Carb problems are usually just one cylinder or one pair. Make sure timing is OK at 1000 and progresses smoothly as RPM increases. Don't need anything fancy. $20 timing light is fine. Remember to clip on to #3 plug lead. That is the reference for all Dinos.

John

 

Exactly same thing happens to me, but ONLY on very tight left-hand turns.

Cheers,

Julio

 

I have to agree. It sounds lie the car may have a lean stumble. May want to have the carbs checked to make sure the accelerator pumps are set right. A properly set up carb should be at least as responsive as a fuel injected car( if not more so). Usually a bit of fine tuning by someone who knows what they are doing will make a big difference on driveability.


Darrell.

 

I would check to see that your mech. advance is working as John stated. I did play with initial timing both retarded, right on and advanced with no change in the stumble so I am going after the centrifical for a check.

 

Could also be idle jets and/or progression holes in carbs. Should not be there, that's for sure. If stomping on accel. brings things back to life, accel. pumps are doing their thing. Easy to check pumps visually with a helper and the air box cover off. Then there is float height, fuel filters in carbs and at fuel pump, etc. Let us know what you find.
John

 

John, thanks for the advice! When I did my overhaul I checked out the carbs thoroughly including the floats which someone had set very high which created very bad fuel milage, probably an attempt to counter that left turn stumble. I then set them to spec with much improvement, will check other items TNX

 

I keep thinking of other possible causes of the problem. Make sure that one air bypass screw in each carb is bottomed out. The other should be open just a little to balance at 1,000 rpm. If both are open, progression holes don't work right and stumble can happen. Talked about this a little in Saga 060716.
John

 

Assuming,plugs, points ignition system OK. Stalling when snapping throttle wide open, is probably a weak mixture. When you next do it, snap the throttle once and snap it again a liitle slower next time. The pumps may have time to get some juice in and it should pick up a lot better. The stumble on left hand bends is probably not relevant here unless your float levels are low. methinks.

 

This is standard operating procedure for Webers. Ask anyone who drives a car with Webers and they will tell you that this is not unusual. My 365 GTC/4, 2 Dinos, and A110B Alpine Renault (with Webers) all have the tendency to hesitate when accelerating from below 2,000 RPM.

That said, I have been successful in eliminating it from all the cars by careful tuning of the carbs. I suspect that timing could contribute, but Webers are likely the culprit. There was a published fix (from Weber) for the C4, which included drilling an air bypass hole in the butterfly.

Jim S.

 

Yes, a little patience, a little studying up on the theory & operation of Webers and a lot of experience can go a long way towards improving the drivability of any Weber equipped vehicle.
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As John states above, please notice the reference made in my previous post on the topic.

 

Difficult to say, since we don't have very much information on the car, recent servicing, etc.

Off-Hand it sounds like when you are requesting the Carb's secondaries to kick in that it is flooding the engine. Adjusting the Carbs would be the remedy, but as was stated we really don't know anything about the health of the ignition system.
Have you gone to an aftermarket spark system?

 

The bypass screws are very good information. Thanks Gary

 

Yes its a factor, because it contributes to the quality of spark. Spark plugs, ingnition wires, contact breaker points, points gap all contribute. If you can start it and run it without using the dinoplex or a replacemet, your ahead of the game. When was the last time you checked the condition of your plugs, points?