308GTB Steering Rack Removal Question:

The nuts will be normal RH thread.

Trick is how to break the taper of the rod-end "shaft" which passes through the hole in the hub. Just undoing the nut won't do it, and hitting the shaft on the end of the thread will only make things worse.

Either get a rod-end splitter tool (several types available, ranging from fork-types which you drive between the rod-end and the hub to put tension on the rod-end shaft, to screw-types which push on the shaft end), or use the two-hammer method.

2-hammer method requires you to hold one heavy mallet firmly against one side of the hub arm, adjacent to where the rod-end passes through, and then give a decent hit against the opposite side of the hub arm with another hammer. This acts to elastically distort the hole in the hub and so "pop" the taper-fit. It helps to rig-up or have someone apply some static leverage against the tie-rod close to the rod-end at the same time, acting to put some tension on the rod-end so that when the taper-fit is cracked the rod-end will move out of the hole and not just get re-grabbed immediately. Keep the nut loose on the rod-end "shaft" to stop the tie-rod from jumping out too far & hitting something it shouldn't (like your face!).

 

On other cars I've either used a small two arm puller to push the rod end out or loosened the nut a turn or two (or better yet replace with a sacraficial nut) and tap/bang it with a hammer to loosen. Using a hammer directly on the rod end will distort the threads at best and bend the rod end most likely. With the nut you get a better more even striking surface and are less likely to bend it. I'd try the puller first.

This same job is in my future. The rod ends look like the easy part, it's everything else that looks tough!

 

Are you trying to get the tie-rod end off of the long rack shaft, or trying to get the tie-rod end off of the steering arm? I assume you are trying to get it to look like the second photo. You want to leave the tie-rod end attached to the long shaft until you get the rack out. In the attached first photo, the steering arm is the horizontal silver casting with the bolt to attach the brake dust sheild. If trying to seperate the tie-rod end from the steering arm then:

An impact wrench will get the nut (the one pointing towards the ground) off. Yes- standard threads. The cast iron casting of the tie-rod end is used while removing the end from the actual tie rod, and during install for steering adjustment. This final steering alignment is best done by the pros.


The two-hammer method mentioned above worked great for me (after loosening the nuts- of course). On mine, I loosened both nuts and left them loosely attached. I started smacking on the driver side (as described) until it popped loose, and by that time, the other side had popped loose also.
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Depending on what ham fisted idiot cranked the tie rod nuts tight last, I have seen some so damned tight a puller just mashes the end of the threads and causes you more fun. The tapers between the steering arm (the hole) and the tie rod stem (the threaded tapered bolt) are different. As you tighten the nut, the stem stretches somewhat as the hole in the arm distorts, and the two become a tight interference fit. The tighter that ham fisted idiot tightened the nut, the more both pieces distort and bond together.

I have been using the two hammer method since I was a kid, and except for a few tiny dings in the steering arm knuckle, and then only on those really tight ones, I have had no trouble or caused any damage. You don't have to beat the hell out of it, just light sharp taps. I try to use the largest hammer I can on the back side, this one you just hold tight against the steering arm at tie rod joint as solid as you can. Then use the largest hammer you can wield safely, and make light sharp blows to, and against the steering arm at the rounded section that the tie rod is in, as directly opposite the other hammer as possible. The shock waves ring it like a bell, and after a few taps you usually are done. If they are tightened with a torque wrench and havnt been together for 30 years, usually they pop apart with one sharp blow. But you need to watch because many times they pop the first whack, and just jump a bit and fall back in the hole. Its apart, you could lift the tie rod up with your hand, but you wernt looking and assume its still holding as you insanely keep whacking it waiting for it to pop.

So, besides using a proper fitting puller, the two hammer method is the safest approach. Do not pound on the nut, and do not EVER use heat. Heat will only take the heat treat out of the parts and weaken them.

 

Yep- what he said.

Almost every nut or bolt you are removing has a specified torque setting- make sure you use them when putting it back together. They are in the shop manual for your car.

 

No, you have to remove the nut. Conversely, you can loosen it a ways and leave it on to protect a miss with the hammer.

Correct, only strike the steering arm joint, never the tie rod itself.

I dont know the torque off hand.

 

If I were any good at drawing pictures, drawing on them, or posting parts diagrams, it would make it much easier.

There are two nuts to a tie rod joint. First, the tie rod is threaded internally, and threaded onto the tie rod, the rod coming out of the steering rack. That rod has a lock nut threaded onto it, that jams the tie rod joint to the rod to keep it from coming unthreaded.

The tie rod joint has a tapered end coming out of it that swivels, its actually a ball joint. The tapered end is threaded and fits into a tapered hole in the end of the steering arm. This is the nut you would "normally" remove to disconnect the tie rod joint from the steering arm in order to remove the rack.

I do suppose you could unthread the rod from the joint, but it would make it rather fun trying to screw it back on. But if your going to take the rack all apart they need to come off anyway. If you were to mark them with paint first you could screw them back to thier original positions and hopefully have your toe in back where it is now. Or at least really close. Provided you can find the same splines on the steering shaft to couple the rack back onto.