1991 348TS (September) 17k miles Last major done by Ferrari Central Florida 1 year / 2k miles ago. Pulled my T/O bearing and clutch and I'd appreciate the "hairy eyeball" from you experts out there. My symptoms were a slow loss of hydraulic pressure when clutch was held down, and a small leak of fluid in the last day I drove it. I could "pump" the clutch and pressure was fine. At no point did I completely lose pedal pressure. The housing was fairly clean prior to the gusher of fluid released when I pulled the bearing off, but there had clearly been a small leak going on for a while. The bearing itself feels a bit worn, but isn't singing yet. It shows no sign of cracks and is quite heavy. I only see black / orange seals in it. They all look a little worn, but none are cracked. I'm ready to order parts and get her back on the road. I've read all the good threads on here and in the tech section, and scoured the348.com and it seems like I need at least the triple seals and most likely a throw out bearing / or the seals for it. I'd really appreciate confirmation of any part numbers I might need, especially with the 4+ models of bearing that were out there. Any additional insight is always welcome! Thanks guys. If any other pictures would be helpful, or if anyone wants any pics of anything else while I have the car jacked up, let me know. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Definitely needs seals. Considering the ease of changing the TO bearing, I might run it til it sings. If you're gonna replace it, there's one for sale in Ferrariads cheap. If there's a gear oil leak, replace the quill seals on the input shaft as well. If just brake fluid (sounds like it), just replace the seals in the TO bearing. Now that you're in there, it's hard to believe $2000+ at the dealer, isn't it?
Don't see any gear oil. I was leaning toward seals only as well. I'm all for spending money when its needed, but as you said, this is an easy job. I emailed Daniel about it last week and he got right back to me, as usual, but hasn't responded in a few days so I assume he is swamped. Do you happen to know the seal part numbers Plugzit? Also, how are they removed? They don't look servicable, but I haven't exactly poked and prodded yet. Thanks!
Ted rutlands has the seals. You have the original old style bearing. That one can be rebuilt by Spherics in gardena, cali for like 60 bucks. They may be able to source the seals too. If not white post in Va. can. Performance friction in long beach, cali. can put new surface on your clutch plates. If you go to the new T/O bearing you will need to change your flange. That's how you get the 2000+ FNA screw job.
The seals are really an easy job. Just pop them out with a screwdriver or punch. Don't worry about destroying them. They'll come out. The original style TO bearing is the same one I have and the same one for sale on Ferrariads. The number will be on the seal. Simple #s, something like 6 x 54 (the number is the size) Daniel will have them or most good seal places too. About the same price, so why not patronize Daniel. Good guy.
I was away from the office Monday and Tuesday. Triple seals: 137249 (need 3x) All the seals and stuff: 139438, 139436, 131651, 143178, 139437, 104984 Bearing: 155226 Flange o-rings: 121813 (need 2x) Grease: 70000789
Thanks guys. Think I'll try the seals first, and if I still have an issue, ship the bearing out to be rebuilt. Will place an order today Daniel! Expect PMs if I get stuck Plugzit. Thanks again.
139437 comes back invalid. Was this a typo? I assume the grease is for packing the bearing? Is this standard grease or magic Ferrari go-fast stuff? Finally, if I choose to reuse my existing bearing (pending further inspection) do I simply omit the bearing and use all the other parts, or are there others I won't need? I will definitely take pictures of the rebuild for brotherhood posterity.
Point well taken, which is why I initially said I would withold ordering until I could get the unit cleaned up and inspected for play in the bearings, galling, etc. Thinking more, I might as well get a new one and have the old one rebuilt for the next time things go bad.
I don't think you'll have to go that far, a good rebuild should last a very long time. At least till the next time you have to replace the clutch.
After pulling the sealing ring out of the front side of the T/O bearing, it is clearly split. Good news, since I always like to find a clear problem. With Daniel's help I received my new seals and T/O bearing yesterday. I'm concerned about one of the seals though. The seal seems to thin. Is this intentional so the seal can crush or deform, or do I have the wrong part? It is a bit difficult to see, but the diameter of the seal is fine, but it appears almost 2-3mm narrower than the original seal. In addition, the original seal had a slight taper on the outer edge. The orignial seal was also split down the circumference (like a U), whereas the new seal is solid. Plugzit: The orignial seal had GACO DIM50 on the inside of it, but that was the only marking. Image Unavailable, Please Login
John - Do you have the part number that was on the bag? It is not unheard of to have these things completely misbagged from Ferrari. Shims are a perfect example of things perpetually mismarked. -d
Thanks for the reply Daniel. I'll post this on Fchat for the benefit of the Brotherhood, and I'll cc via email. The two bags, which I admittedly opened without checking which was which, are PN# 139438 and 139436. I made a (crude) cross-section diagram to illustrate the difference in the seals. The smaller "blue" seal was perfect. The "black" seal is the one that doesn't fit right. The seal I received is on the left "new seal"-- it is the correct circumference to be snug against the sleeve, but as you can see, it does not match the width of the groove. The orignial seal is on the right. It is not a solid seal, but rather, appears to be designed to catch the hydraulic fluid. It is of a reciprocating design with a lip / u shape. Is has a slight flange on the edge also, but I imagine that is from wear. Also of note is that the outer edge (that rides on the sleeve) appears about .5mm shorter. If you have another one of the cast T/O bearings on hand, like I received, you can likely verify the "fit" for yourself. Doing some digging, it looks like there are other similar part numbers that are also specified as the "Clutch Release Bearing Carrier Oil Seal," and reference the 348 and Testarossa. Not sure if these are relevant, but I thought I'd include them just in case. 139439 CLUTCH RELEASE BEARING CARRIER OIL SEAL, 348/TESTAROSSA (OLD # 124674) 139440 CLUTCH RELEASE BEARING CARRIER OIL SEAL, 348/TESTAROSSA (OLD # 122033) In closing, I want to thank you and the Brotherhood for your continued assistance. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Daniel (ricambiamerica.com) was kind enough to overnight me an alternate seal, which worked perfectly. It had the split lip on it, as my previous one, and was clearly an improved seal over the orginal. Make sure you check this seal before you order, as there are at least 2 of them. I also found a footnote on the348.com that mentioned this seal difference, but I overlooked it somehow in the last 19 times I read that section-- go figure. Anyway, thanks Daniel and crew for the help.
