Dino Restoration

The smile is priceless. The journey begins.

 

Hey omgjon,

I just had this thought----------watching and reading your restoration thread is a bit like trying to understand the concept of - "If I could do it over - and fix all the things that could go wrong later". I feel that we are watching the recreation (i.e., rebirth) of an art object--------as if for the first time, yet even better. You should be very pleased

Your passion is quite obvious. You didn't allocate untold amounts of dollars - to some restoration firm to be responsible for the work. From what I've seen, you know how to get grease from under a fingernail or two.

Amazing - and thanks for sharing all of this project with us.
Hank

 

Jon,

http://transitshield.com/sc/index.php


Pietro

 

Jon - per our telephone conversation and e-mail, the foam insulation I used to sandwhich between the passenger-engine firewall is found at www.McMaster-Carr.com. Study the catalog page for 9349k4. It comes in varying thickness. It is reasonably heat resistant, water resistant, and oil resistant. There are many choices, but finding a closed cell (water resistant) chemical resistant foam at the right temperature is challenging.

I used the same foam under the passenger floor sandwiched between the bottom panel and the passenger tub. I believe it was 1" thick, as was the engine firewall. However, I would order several sheets of 1", and several sheets of other thickness, such as 1/4". You will find yourself using it in many places.

I used Dynamat everywhere. Weight was not a consideration (this is not a performance car to begin with). I placed Dynamat (for sound quieting) under the roof, on the floor, the door skins, the inside aspect of the firewall, and on the floor and firewall of the trunk. Why on the trunk you ask? Anywhere that there is a large drum-like surface, engine vibration will create resonance. The Dynamat dampens the resonance. (Think roof, door skins, trunk floor, engine firewall, foot-wells, etc., etc.

Good luck.

Jim

 

+1
This looks like great fun and is very exciting.

You've got an excellent shop that is very tidy, but what is behind the black vertical blinds - tools perhaps?
</envy>

Wow, cool stuff. Several in our local FCA club with new cars or new paint suggest a similar product, clear bra, to protect the paint from rock chips. I've pondered it for the Dino.

 

Jon, instead of the way overpriced Dynamat, try these two: http://www.secondskinaudio.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi http://www.raamaudio.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi

 

My Euro Dino has this on the inside of the door skin. It is great, but the installer used a black, sticky adhesive to attach it to the interior door panel. Later, when I needed to enter the door interior to tighten the door locking mechanism, this black stuff got everywhere. Just rubbing your arm against it transfers the stuff.

 

The reason I suggested the vendors above is because their products are Butyl based versus a lot of the other stuff.These two companies have continued to upgrade their materials since this came out http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/

BTW, Dynamat Original is asphalt based but the Dynamat Extreme is is butyl based.

 

Just had my car totally renovated new front wings etc and have notice your line drops at the front the sames as mine where the fender/bumper goes on but if I look at other ones the line follows round, I wonder could you tell me which one is right I bought mine 3 years ago in 50 boxes and hoping to have it finished this summer will post pics next week heres a link to one where the line follows

http://custom.autos.yahoo.com/gallery/photos-car-24627;_ylt=AjLrt.qeT9k_tzQfhdYgv3nb9skF?photo_cat=all&start=0&sel=1

have really enjoyed your rebuild as been a godsend to reassemble mine and find parts

Stephen
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I read the question as referring to the bone line from nose to front of rear wheel arch. But I've always wondered about the line for the lower black area.

 

Jon,
In response to your concern about nicking up the paint during reassembly;
I saw a set of 4 "factory" Dino paint protectors listed on ebay 3-4 years ago. The set sold for around $2-3000 if I recall. They looked like a fiberglass mold of the front and rear fenders, and they were lined with some type of soft red cloth, like felt. They finish on the exterior looked like unpainted cloth mat fiberglass. They simply hooked on each panel like a skin, providing protection from just about any type of impact or scratch while mechanical repairs were being performed.
I am restoring a '73 246GT and am considering remaking these for my car before the paint goes on. I could make a few extra sets if there was a demand, however I'm not sure if these would have to be custom fit for each car, or not. Those 4 panels were typically buck formed, and should be quite close from car to car. I would like to hear any comments about interchangeability.
Can anyone confirm if this was indeed a dealer or factory tool?
Keep up the great documentation!
Regards,
Jon Hansen

 

welcome to the thread!

looking fantastic...........

 

I love this thread------

 

i am the one that bought the fender covers. they are made of fiberglass and have a thick grey felt lining. they simply slide over the fender and into place. nothing too fancy, but i guess they help protect the paint and body.

 

here is a photo of the factory fender protectors. i was mistaken, the felt is a thick, black felt.
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I guess my memory failed me once again, as I recalled the felt being red in color.
Thanks for the picture. How do they fit your car, and how do they function?
Would you recommend them to others?
Kind regards,
Jon Hansen

 

hard to say i would recommend, it is the only set i have ever come across. they simply lay over the existing bodywork, they are snug, but not tight. the felt keeps the paint from being scrathed. the fiberglass is very light weight and thin.

 

Jon,

hope you are feeling better... Just a friendly reminder in case you want ot get away (again) for a few days.

http://www.ferrariaz.com/concorso2007/concorso2007.htm

The car looks stunning!!

Pietro

 

Hi Jon:

I just replaced my e-brake cables and to the best of my knowledge, they should be bowden type cables which have a sheath and ferules on the ends.

My car is considerably earlier than yours but check your parts book just to be sure.

Oh, and don't drink the water.

...Keith