Torqueing down a 308 head

I think you'll need a special tool for a start!

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/FERRARI-308-328-TESTAROSSA-CYLINDER-HEAD-NUT-TOOL_W0QQitemZ320110340880QQihZ011QQcategoryZ10380QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem.

Its really not going to be easy to do - especially the front bank.

Why not pop over to QV at Ascot & ask Mike Lester what he thinks....

 

Common problem; if I recall correctly, the workshop manual even specifies a retorquing interval for the 308 series. I think it was with every major service...so every 5 years or 30,000 miles. I know that both my 308 and my 328 when in for a major service had the head bolts retorqued. The tech even told me my 328 had a couple that were a bit loose! I think he just retorqued and did not loosen first, because he said two bolts took a quarter turn to reach spec. He wouldn't know that if he loosened them all first...

 

You may not need that special tool for a 2V engine. 4V engine requires the tool. Lots of people feel that you need to losen and then tighten to spec. Many people simply set the torque wrench and go to town. I am of the latter.

 

I have always (30 years) been in the loosen-then-retorque camp. I back them off about a quarter of a turn, then retorque to spec. A clicker-type wrench has been reliable for me. Keep your free hand off the wrench because it can affect the torque that the wrench detects. Pull steadily and smoothily, no jerking.
Ed

 

Second what Ed just said. I have found that if you dont loosen them first, they are usually stuck in place and you really arent gaining anything. When you back them 1/4 - 1/2 turn, however far it takes to turn freely, on retorque you will turn them back much farther than where they were initially, hence they are putting far greater pressure on the gasket and thats the whole reason you would do this. On heads that tighten down a ways, I let them rest 10 minutes and do it again. You would be surprised how much farther they tighten down.

When retorquing, make sure you have as full of swing available as you can, because if it gets near max torque and you stop, they generally will "stick" there, and you can no longer torque it tighter reliably because you will have to far exceed torque spec to get it to break loose to turn, and then it will just get jumpy. Better to turn it through in one continuous motion without stopping until your wrench clicks.

 

Where exactly is the printed description of this service outlined. Is it in the owners manual or the service book?

 

Same with new spark plugs. I always hand tighten, loosen and then tighten to spec. Used spark plugs don't seem to need this however.

Ken

 

Gasket type spark plugs need to have the gasket compressed when new.

 

I have a 2V car and you don't need any special tool. For my car the *sequence* is critical and it's in the service manual.

From researching here I concluded it was best to do it in stages - three stages - working up to the final torque.

I suppose head gaskets may not be any different than other gaskets. But, I admit when it comes to head bolts, I am in the group that just torques in place without loosening.

Seamus

 

Static friction is always more than dynamic friction. If one retorques a bolt and it actually moves, you are probably good to go. If there is no movement, then back off the bolt, and retorque.

If one were really anal about the process, it's probably best to back off the nut a good amount, lightly reoil the threads and mating surfaces with fresh engine oil, one bolt at a time, then retorque. This is the controlled status when new. I would follow the tightening sequence in the SM.

Bill

 

I don't know about Ferraris in this regard but have found that after retorqueing the head it's a good idea to check your tappet clearances. Sometimes they can change a little.

Bob Wassam

 

The Ferraris are all overhead cam, so any reduction in hieght would be irrelavent to valve clearance. It would however alter valve timing and loosen the belt or chain ever so small an amount.

 

If your going to all the trouble to remove the cam covers, you may as well replace the cam oil seals too. No, you do not need any special tools, but one corner or so need a thinwall socket to get onto the nut. I used a 3/8" drive deep socket on those. 6 point sockets wouldnt be a real bad idea to be using either.

But if your going to put in seals, you may as well check and alter valve clearance, and your only a skip and a jump away from changing the timing belts while your in there. I think you'll feel a lot better getting it all done.

 

I am in agreement on all of the above. And, I have a 2V car and recently re-torqued the head bolts.

I had no idea whether valve clearances could be affected by the re-torque. But somehow the thought did cross my mind. So, not knowing any better, I decided to make the re-torque the very first thing I did. I would be more worried about the belts and tensioners. And after that the valve clearances.

Seamus

P.S. I think there must be some law somewhere that states something like it shall not be possible to complete thy task in one day or verily in one weekend for lack of a special tool or discovery of the unexpected need for a part not within thine inventory .

 

I believe its in the owners manual, inside the back page. But only in Italian.

 

Am I the only one seeing this snowball into a big long project?
Lets see:
Remove Engine cover & maybe find new things to fix but at a minimum:
Cam cover gaskets $150
Cam cover seals $160
Distributor seals $ 50
Timing Belts $ 80 The manual says never re-tension a belt
Idlers $200 Might as well u're there
Alt & AC belt $80 They don't like retensioning either
Dizzy points & Cond $75 Its out & easy
That about $800, plus say another 50% for incidentals makes it $1200 plus 40 hours of your time for retorquing bolts that have been happy for 30 years?
Nay I say!!!!!
Take car to Italy for short Holiday, upgrade something, or .......... whatever!
As my dear dad said "If it works, leave the dam thing alone"
Bill
just my .02

 

Your dad was right on the money!

 

I was wondering the same thing. Has anyone re-torqued the head and then had problems develop? Could this cause the gasket to start leaking as it has now been jarred a bit. Or am I out of my mind?

 

torque specs should be on this somewhere, if you don't already have them

Also has most of the other torque settings, from Ferrari's Tech updates.
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