HID lights possible on f355? newbie question

I put HID's in my 355 with the help of a friend. Very easy to do - just need to house the ballast (which we did by putting it where the battery was). No cutting, etc. required. A very classy upgrade, and relatively easy to do.

Note, there will be a contrast between your headlights and your foglights, unless you get HID's for your foglights (or don't turn 'em on - but then what fun is that?!?)

Best.

 

Hi,

I had just installed an HID kit on my '99, and it was actually easier than I had originally thought it would be.

I took an old kit that I had taken off my NSX, and as I found it uses the same style bulbs (9006). So you could actually purchase any generic HID kit with that same bulb type and install it on the 355. I think I paid around $500 for my kit about 2 years ago, but you can find one cheaper (around $300-400) by doing a Google search. I have a kit based on the McCulloch ballasts and igniters.

The most difficult part (for me anyway, having not as much experience with the 355 as much as the NSX) is figuring out how to keep the headlights in the "up" position with the headlights off. I was told by a tech to turn the headlights on with the ignition on, then disconnect the battery. But I didn't feel like having the ECU lose its memory (you lose the mapping that the ECU "learned" over time when you disconnect the battery), and having to drive it several (sluggish) miles to have it learn it back, so I just pulled the headlight motor fuses instead (both left and right motors, not the fuse that supplies the electronic controller) after turning the headlights on (too bad the Italians never thought of putting a separate switch to manually overide the headlight position). The fuses are clearly marked in the fuse box.

Anyway, once you get the headlights to stay up, it is pretty much the same procedure as replacing a headlight bulb, which is explained in the owner's manual (again, it is sad that they ommited the part about keeping the headlights "up" with the power off).

The only additional steps you would have to take is mounting the ballasts and igniters (if they are separate units, some kits have them combined in one unit). The easiest and most accessible spot I have found is an area underneath the headlight assembly, which is accessed by removing the panel underneath the car directly below the headlight assembly. Once that is removed, you will find there is lots of room in there. You will probably have to fabricate your own brackets, depending on your situation; I mounted mine to the alarm siren mounts on the drivers side, and to the air horn mounts on the passenger side. This way, no holes are drilled and the whole install is reversible. Power to the HID kit is supplied directly through the OEM connectors.

They also make all sorts of kits for different bulbs, so you will be able to convert your fog lights, and even your high beams to HID if you are inclined to do so.

Depending on the kit, and how careful you did your install, you will probably have to check and adjust the aim of your headlights.

Anyway, the kit works great, and the lighting is so awesome, it makes me want to take the car out at night all the time. One of the best mods you can do to the car, any car for that matter.

I hope this helps, and if you have any further questions, just ask here, or you can IM me.

Alex

 

Hi Gordon,

Yeah, it is essentially a plug and play install. The only thing you would need to fabricate are the mounting brackets for the ballasts and igniters. You also do not need to cut or splice into any wiring, it plugs directly into the existing OEM connectors. Just make sure the polarities are correct (should be explained in the instruction manual).

There is no heat issue with these kits, I do not feel the bulbs are putting out any more heat than the OEM bulbs. I could be wrong on that, though, but so far, no meltdowns!

I do not have personal experience dealing with this particular company, but it looks like I have the exact same parts these guys are selling.

Good luck! Let me know how it works out for you.

Regards,

Alex

 

The only request I have for anyone doing HID upgrades ,etc..

please take the car and have the lamp adjusted.. the worst thing is to have a person driving with HIDs that are out of alignment and blinding the opposite traffic.

-a

 

Yes, it is absolutely important to make sure your headlights are well adjusted.

Any Ferrari dealership can surely do it, as a matter of fact, any car dealership with a well equipped service department could do it. Also, any independent shop with the right equipment could do it, too.

Heck, you can do it yourself as well. The procedure is described in the owners manual.

HTH.

Alex

 

Hi there.

I am embarking on what should be a relatively simple project... replacing the headlights. And i am snagged... perhaps someone can help me out.

I am putting in an HID kit into a F355 for those who are curious.

Reading the instruction manual, i see:
-remove 4 screws and remove outer bezel
-unplug the wiring
-release 3 clips
-remove light
-replace bulb
-reverse first 4

This should be simple enough, only i cannot find the "wiring" that i need to unplug. Skipping this step in an effort to move on with the project, i released the 3 clips. The light cluster (glass part) is now released from the metal part. Only, the opening is not enough to slide the light out. I tried twisting,etc... even used the dial inside the headlight to open the light more, and still not enough to get the light out. So i am convinced that not having taken off the wires is what is snagging me in getting out this light.

Can anyone tell me where these wires are supposed to be, so i can disconnect and remove the light?

Thanks in advance

 

Hi,

It is the electrical coupler that connects the headlight assembly/reflector to the wiring harness of the car. You might have better view and access to it by jacking up the front of the car (or one side at a time) and removing the panel underneath.

HTH.

Alex

 

Thanks, ill check that out! I appreciate your suggestion

 

Does anyone know the performance difference/differential between the $300-$400 xenon conversion kits with ballasts and igniters versus the $20-$30 self-contained xenon bulbs? I apologize if this is a stupid question Thanks!

 

Hey no problem i can help you out here.

Basically the blue colored halogen bulbs that you find for $20-40 are the same bulbs that are in your car, but (on the low end $20) painted blue or (on the high end $40) made from blue glass.

The natural light color created by any tungsten filament is slightly yellow. The blue glass/coating filters out yellow, leaving a more white look.

On the upside, this is inexpensive, on the downside, the $20 ones are considerably less bright and have a considerably shorter lifespan than stock bulbs, and the $40 ones are slightly less bright.

No matter what anyone tells you, you will never be able to match the intensity of hid or get a PURE WHITE color out of blue tinted bulbs while still making them bright enough to function.

If you want an inexpensive solution, go for a GOOD set of the blue colored bulbs.
Example: http://www.xenesisbulbs.com

Regarding the HID kits, $300-400, this is real HID technology. They have a very intense light, and are really great for safety.

There are two things to consider when ordering these kits.
1) You get to pick your own color, 4300k would be like a stock BENZ, 6000k a pure white color, or 8000k a blueish color.
2) These kits come in a LOT of different quality grades. Most of the kits coming out of china that retail on ebay for $110 are being sold by vendors for $300 who build in $100 of warranty costs into each kit. You dont want unreliable headlights - especially when you have to uninstall the light, reinstall the stock lights, send the kit back, wait wait wait, then reinstall again! Search for either German, Korean or Japanese kits. They are all equally reliable and quality is top in general.

I installed a Xenoflo 8000k HID kit in my F355. The cost of it was $275 on sale. It works great, with a couple notes:
- Since the car is not made for HID, the electrical system going to the headlights is not stable on the car while running the starter motor, this causes a voltage drop significant enough for the ballasts to auto-shutoff for protection (cheap ballasts dont have this, and try to increase amperage to compensate and fry). This means basically, start the car with the headlights off. Otherwise you need to shut off and turn on the headlights to get them to turn on.
- For some reason, ferrari put the left and right headlights on DIFFERENT FUSES!! This threw me for a loop when one of the fuses blew. I figured it was the light but it wasnt. It was the fuse. One side uses a 15a fuse and the other 10a. Anyway, up the 15a to 20a and the 10a to 15a and you will be fine. The HID draws a little more current.

The ones I used: http://www.xenofloHID.com

Any questions, feel free to ask.

 

I just purchased the complete system(F355) new for $108.00......ballasts,wiring harnesses, and bulbs appear to be really good quality...I will have to check them to make sure, but if anyone is interested let me know.

 

All cars sold in the U.S. (and probably every other country) MUST have the left and right headlight on different fuses. Think about it.... you're driving high speed at night, in the countryside going through a curve and your "single" headlight fuse blows....... you can imagine the result. Tailights, running lights etc. are on serperate fuses for similar reasons.

Erich

>>>- For some reason, ferrari put the left and right headlights on DIFFERENT FUSES!! This threw me for a loop when one of the fuses blew. I figured it was the light but it wasnt. It was the fuse. One side uses a 15a fuse and the other 10a. Anyway, up the 15a to 20a and the 10a to 15a and you will be fine. The HID draws a little more current.<<<

 

IIRC, one of the older Lotuses (Europa? Elan?) had two fuses - one for the entire left side of the car, the other for the entire right side - and I mean the entire electrical system, not just the bulbs. I guess this was another incident of Chapman loosely translating the rules. I'm sure he saved a few ounces in the process.

Now, back to the thread, I think some kits have the ballast and igniter in one unit vs. the separate units. The single ballast/igniter kits are more compact and easier to wire, and should allow you to plug-and-play the original wiring/bulb back in should you have the kit fail or want to return the car to stock. You can still do a plug-and-play install for the separate kits (I did this for my 993) but it was a little bit more complicated (again, for the 993 due to the integrated headlamp module).

Admittedly, I haven't upgraded my 348's lighting to HIDs. I've been fairly satisfied with the stock set-up although when I drive it at night, it's mostly been on very well lit highways and roads.

 

HOEN makes fabulous xenon compatible bulbs for all the other bulbs that burn white as does the HID's.

I have used many and highly recommend.

I have them on the high beams of my 360!

 

Thanks so much for al the helpful information! It looks like I may go with a 6,000 K MTec set (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&sspagename=ADME%3AB%3AAAQ%3AUS%3A1&viewitem=&item=190114950256). It looks like the 355 uses a 9006 bulb (similar to what is on my acuras, audis, volvos, etc. from that era). Thanks again for all the info. Regards, Judd

 

Stick with 5,000 Kelvin. The light is cleaner and it's closer to an OEM spec.

High K #'s do not equate to brighter. It's a different color band!

 

I would stay between 4000K to 6000K. Too low of K would yield more yellowish color. Too high of K would give more blue/purple color and start losing light output.

 

Tha's precisely what I was getting at and bluer is not brighter.

 

If you guys want me to set up a group buy for $140 a kit overnighted let me know, I distribute these to local shops and online busineess's across the U.S. ie. overboost.com stangmods.com and tons of others.

www.3bspec.com