HELP! car starts on 4 cylinders (no slow down lights) | FerrariChat

HELP! car starts on 4 cylinders (no slow down lights)

Discussion in 'Technical Q&A' started by TMan, Jun 14, 2007.

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  1. TMan

    TMan Formula Junior

    May 13, 2006
    385
    Colorful Colorado
    Full Name:
    Steve
    My '89 Mondial-t coupe had been running great. But recently after taking it out for a run (nothing dramatic) I stopped at a friend's house for a couple of hours. Upon starting the car it started on only one bank (no lights of any kind illuminated on the dash). About half way home the bank came on but then shut down again pulling into my driveway.

    Ferrari of Denver looked it over and for a couple of days it ran fine for them and then on the third day it acted up. I have 2 new cat ECUs (black in color not green), one new ignition coil, new thermocouples, and redone cats. They did get the 1-4 slow down light to come and then it shut down that bank (cat was glowing red). They adjusted air-flow mixture (HC and CO levels were off) and everything else checked out just fine. They drove it for 35 miles and had no problems over 2 days.

    Drove it home and it was fine. Did not drive it for a few days and today started it and it started on only one bank again...running on 4 cylinders (no lights at all on the dash). Drove it around the block and the bank did not come back on so drove it home (no red lights of any kind ever came on). FOD is picking it up today but everyone seems to be stumped. Any ideas anyone, PLEASE!!!!

    Thanks,
    Steve
     
  2. spiderseeker

    spiderseeker Formula 3

    Jul 22, 2005
    1,718
    Colorado
    Full Name:
    Steve
    I think the crank sensors can do that. Many threads about it. If it's like my 85' 308qv, there is a sensor for each bank and one for the tach.(3 total)
    Sometimes they can measure ok cold and fail hot (maybe the other way around too), my car had a similar problem with the PO and he said the sensor wire contacts were dirty, he cleaned them and no problems since.
    Check with 91TR on this board, he is a local expert- Dave Helms too.
    good luck,
    Steve
     
  3. TMan

    TMan Formula Junior

    May 13, 2006
    385
    Colorful Colorado
    Full Name:
    Steve
    Thanks for the heads up about the sensors Steve I will have that checked out. I'm going to call Helms tomorrow and see what he thinks. I have had very good service from FOD thus far...very good people. If 91TR doesn't respond to this thread I may PM him.

    Steve
     
  4. NYCFERRARIS

    NYCFERRARIS Formula 3

    Mar 2, 2004
    1,011
    I had that problem...had to get a new MAF on the mis (sing) behaving bank... I have learned my lessons well by living with a 348...if its a 348 problem, its an electrical problem.
     
  5. lusso64

    lusso64 Formula 3

    Apr 12, 2004
    1,535
    Simi Valley
    Full Name:
    David
  6. ernie

    ernie Two Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa Owner

    Nov 19, 2001
    22,620
    The Brickyard
    Full Name:
    The Bad Guy
    I'm with Dave on this one. Check the condition of the wiring. Also pay attention to your grounds. Check the one grounding the engine to the frame, and the battery to the frame. You may also want too a have a look at your fuel pressure regulators.

    As far as your check engine lights go, are they illuminating when you first put the key in and turn it to the "on" position, but not start the car?
     
  7. TMan

    TMan Formula Junior

    May 13, 2006
    385
    Colorful Colorado
    Full Name:
    Steve
    Yes all the correct lights illuminate when the key is turned to the on position and then all go off normally. Then when the car is started it starts on just one bank.
    As to your and others advice I will check all grounds, sensors, MAFs, and fuel pressure regulator. When we figure it out I will let everyone know what we found.

    Thanks,
    Steve
     
  8. No Doubt

    No Doubt Seven Time F1 World Champ

    May 21, 2005
    72,740
    Vegas+Alabama
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    Mr. Sideways
    Rather than testing *everything*, I'd suggest narrowing your problem down to a small area.

    For instance, use your digital voltmeter to read the voltage on each of your fuel pump fuses after your car has started, while at idle.

    Are both of your fuel pumps powered up properly? You want to know.

    I'd also pull a spark plug on the offending side to see if you have spark.

    Fuel, spark, and timing are the "big 3" for getting your engine running. You need to know which one (or more) of the above is failing you. Then you can perform a few really good tests rather than a whole lot of so-so tests.
     
  9. TMan

    TMan Formula Junior

    May 13, 2006
    385
    Colorful Colorado
    Full Name:
    Steve
    Thanks ND that sounds like a good plan. I'll give a try.
     
  10. TMan

    TMan Formula Junior

    May 13, 2006
    385
    Colorful Colorado
    Full Name:
    Steve
    Took a methodical approach and found a bad 1-4 crank sensor. The good thing about taking this approach (besides having your car run right) is that just about every electrical connection and sensor was checked and cleaned.

    A big thank you to everyone who responded to this thread. Your advice and opinions were appreciated and heeded. I hope this helps someone else down the road.

    Steve
     
  11. ernie

    ernie Two Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa Owner

    Nov 19, 2001
    22,620
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    The Bad Guy
    Glad you got it sorted out, and thanks for the update.
     
  12. TMan

    TMan Formula Junior

    May 13, 2006
    385
    Colorful Colorado
    Full Name:
    Steve
    Well we thought we had it but it was not to be. FOD went through all the wiring and sensors checking cleaning and stabilizing each one and found the 1-4 crank sensor to be faulty. It was replaced and the car was back on both bandks running great. The car was driven about 120 miles over 2-3 days and it ran perfectly.

    I picked it up today and drove about 17 miles of the 20 mile drive home driving normally (65-80mph) in traffic. It's a hot day here today but I had the windows down and AC off so no extra load on the engine. When I exited the highway to the light the car was fine. When I took off from the light I was on 1 bank again. I drove slowly for about 5 blocks and one dash light flickered quickly and went off. I drove it another 5 blocks and the bank seemed to start up again running on 8 cylinders. I drove it slowly and the 1-4 slowdown light started flashing and I was back on 1 bank. Then the light went off and I drove a few more blocks the bank came back on and the 1-4 slowdown light came on and stayed on for about 20 to 30 seconds (but the car was running on 8 cylinders). After the light went off I drove the last half mile or so and it seemed to be OK but not perfect. I pulled into the garage and looked the the cats, which looked fine...not glowing red.

    I let it cool for awhile and started it again and it idled OK for awhile but after a few minutes I revved it a bit and the tach came down below 500 rpm, ran roughly and just about died. I turned it off went into the house and called FOD. I will try again in the morning and see what happens but I will probably have to get it towed again and go from there. Very, very frustrating.
     
  13. No Doubt

    No Doubt Seven Time F1 World Champ

    May 21, 2005
    72,740
    Vegas+Alabama
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    Mr. Sideways
    Two different problems, TMan. You replaced the crank sensor, check.

    Now you've either got a faulty exhaust ecu or else half of your engine is running too rich.

    You did the sensible thing by verifying that your cat on the 1-4 side wasn't glowing red. Check.

    Now simply swap your 5-8 exhaust ecu with your 1-4 exhaust ecu. They are twins. Move them to the other side, one to the left, the other to the right side.

    Prior to your drive today you had a SLOW DOWN light click on for one side. Now, after you've swapped exhaust ecus from side to side, if your SLOW DOWN likewise switches sides, then you've identified your problem.

    It's just two small bolts and two black plastic electric clips to undo to move each exhaust ecu (visible when you remove your rear wheel and inner fender cover on your shock tower).
     
  14. ferrarilou

    ferrarilou Formula Junior

    Apr 13, 2004
    513
    US
    Full Name:
    Lou Menditto
    Also check the wire from each cat ECU to its mating thermocouple. I had one break at the strain relief (thermocouple end) on my old Mondial T at a track event. Temporary solution if this is the case is to disconnect the connecter at the ECU end and use a short piece of wire to short the two contacts coming out of the ECU. Worked great.


    Lou
     
  15. Birdman

    Birdman F1 Veteran

    Jun 20, 2003
    6,689
    North shore, MA
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    THE Birdman
    I don't think this has been stated but it should be. If one bank is not running, you should shut the car off immediately and not drive it. It sounds like you drove it home on at least one occasion running on one bank. That might be the convenient thing to do but you are risking your life and your car. You can very easily cause a fire doing that!! This is one of the major causes of Ferrari engine fires (hot cat plus unburned fuel = kaboom!) At the least, you will destroy the cat. DO NOT drive the car with only one bank running or you will be the proud owner of a toasted Ferrari.

    Birdman
     
  16. TMan

    TMan Formula Junior

    May 13, 2006
    385
    Colorful Colorado
    Full Name:
    Steve
    Thanks for the advice guys.

    To ND: the problem with switching the cat ECUs is that the slowdown light does not always come on. Like this morning, I drove it and it started fine, let it idle for awhile and drove it till it warmed up...everything fine. Drove around some back roads and got on it pretty good, ran like a banshee. Started home and when I stopped at a light (about the fourth light on my way home) the car was fine. Took off and it was on 1 bank...no lights at all. Drove it about 50ft and the bank came back on. Drove home and as I pulled into the garage I could tell it was on 1 bank again (no lights came on). I let it idle for 1 minute or so and then revved it to 2000rpm (if everything is fine it comes right back down to 1000rpms and stays there) and then let my foot off of the accelerator and it dropped to 500rpm stuttered and died. I turned the key off and called FOD. So with this episode seems like it has something to do with running it and stopping and taking off, but no lights came on at all.

    Also, the 1-4 bank was running CO levels low and HC levels high. It was adjusted properly and the car ran fine, but there's obviously something else going on, do you think?


    To ferrarilou: I believe FOD did that but I will make sure.


    To Birdman: I know what you mean but when the 1-4 slowdown light came on and stayed on yesterday for about 20-25 seconds I was going to stop but all 8 cylinders were firing. When I got home, which took about 2-3 minutes I immediately checked the cats and they were fine...not glowing red.
     
  17. No Doubt

    No Doubt Seven Time F1 World Champ

    May 21, 2005
    72,740
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    Mr. Sideways
    Sounds like a textbook example of an exhaust ecu going bad.
     
  18. TMan

    TMan Formula Junior

    May 13, 2006
    385
    Colorful Colorado
    Full Name:
    Steve
    Well they are both new (green epoxy) ECUs but maybe you're right I just got a bad one. I'll see about getting that replaced and see what happens. Thanks.

    Steve
     
  19. Dr Tommy Cosgrove

    Dr Tommy Cosgrove Three Time F1 World Champ
    Owner Rossa Subscribed

    May 4, 2001
    36,587
    Birmingham, AL
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    Tommy
    What is this, some kind of Ferrari virus that is going around? Mine started losing the rear 1-4 bank in Apr. It is in the shop now. This is probably the 12th thread I have seen on this problem in 2 months.
     
  20. TMan

    TMan Formula Junior

    May 13, 2006
    385
    Colorful Colorado
    Full Name:
    Steve

    I don't know Dr. but it's driving me crazy. If and when this gets corrected I'll post it so as to help prevent or fix others with similar problems.
     
  21. ernie

    ernie Two Time F1 World Champ
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    No.

    Swap them first and see what happens.

    If the bank shut down switches sides THEN get a new unit. If it doesn't then do the swap again but this time with the thermocouples.
     
  22. lusso64

    lusso64 Formula 3

    Apr 12, 2004
    1,535
    Simi Valley
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    David
    #22 lusso64, Jun 21, 2007
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Have you reset the ECUs? Do this by disconnecting the battery, reconnecting, then start the car and let it warm up just idling. Do not touch the gas, do not drive, do not pass go and collect $200. Once it's up to normal temp, turn it off, then you're good to go (once you start the engine again that is). Of course, if it starts missing or running only on 4 during this process, stop and do something else - it won't help any.

    I would not be surprised if the ECUs are full of garbage info with all that has been happening, and they need to relearn the engine's parameters. The bad CO and HC levels point to this, or, a dead/dieing O2 sensor or cat.

    The Cat ECUs are simply looking at CAT temperature. They trigger the slow down light if the CAT gets too hot. In an 89 Mondial t with its M2.5, there is no connection from the CAT ECU to the EFI ECU. The CAT ECU CANNOT KILL A BANK OF THE ENGINE. Different story in the M2.7 versions. This is confirmed by examining the wiring diagram for both models (see below). I may be wrong, and so might the schematics, but as far as I can tell, this is one of the differences between M2.5 and M2.7.

    The O2 sensors are looking only at O2 levels. They don't care about cat temperature, and cannot trigger a slow down light - rather they trigger the ECU to illuminate the check engine light.

    Since you have a slow down light, then the cat is getting too hot, or the cat ECU THINKS the cat is getting too hot. As there is no connection to the EFI ECU, the cat ECUs cannot be the cause of this problem. The slow down light may be a sign of the problem, or totally incidental (unlikely though). It won't be the cause of the problem though.

    The bad O2 and HC levels could be arising from a dead cat, faulty O2 sensor, or other engine fault causing the mixture to be so far out that the ECU cannot compensate for it.
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  23. TMan

    TMan Formula Junior

    May 13, 2006
    385
    Colorful Colorado
    Full Name:
    Steve
    Thanks all good information.

    I'll see if I can put it to good use.
    The ECUs have not been reset but that is a good idea if for nothing else just to see if it makes any difference at all. Interesting call on the difference between the 2.5 and the 2.7. I'll check it out.

    I don't know why the CO and HC levels were off, the the O2 sensor was checked and is working perfectly.

    Stay tuned we'll get this sorted out yet.
     
  24. ernie

    ernie Two Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa Owner

    Nov 19, 2001
    22,620
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    The Bad Guy
    WILL YOU GO SWAP THE CAT ECU'S ALREADY!
     
  25. TMan

    TMan Formula Junior

    May 13, 2006
    385
    Colorful Colorado
    Full Name:
    Steve
    OK OK, it's at FOD right now but I will have that done.
     

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