Just finished reading the entire thread, wow! It must take an insane person - albeit one with a lot of determination and confidence - to take an entire car apart and back together! I don't mean to get too far off track, but as someone in real estate, I have interest in homes. It doesn't look like you're in the Covenant. What SF on the house? Bedrooms? Cheers!
Not in the covenant, more garages than bedrooms and the best part ITALIAN windows. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
I have a small request, . . . . Could you post a picture of the t-shirts that you had made up for the unveiling ? Thanks for sharing . . .
Okay, okay. Today I put in the rear inner fenders. I have to make new aluminum pieces that cover the bottom and edges. I ordered a new tool that hopefully will allow me to fabricate these pieces. I'm also going to fabricate a new aluminum heat shield that separates the trunk from the engine compartment. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Hey Jon (or anyone): I re-chromed my front bumper but am unhappy with the result. Apparently (on the Spyder 2L) the front bumper consists of two pieces that are welded in the center (nose of the bumper). The metal is so thin that now the bumper has some waves but no dimples. I wish I had left well enough alone. Anyway, does anyone have suggestions on where to go to fabricate a new bumper? Andrew in LA
Hot Rod's 'n Hobbies in Torrance, http://www.hotrodsandhobbies.net/about%20us.htm lots of experience with Italian bodywork; 5 platinum Dino's, Skeets Dunn 212, and Bob Butler's '59 SA prototipo have been the result of his shop's work. http://www.hotrodsandhobbies.net/Prenovitz/Prenovitz%20pic%20gallery/dppic1.htm http://www.hotrodsandhobbies.net/Dunn/Dunn%20pic%20gallery/sdpic1.htm http://www.hotrodsandhobbies.net/Butler/Butler%20pic%20gallery/rbpic1.htm Scotty has his own fabricators but he's also located in a "car guy" complex and if he gets overloaded he will refer you to someone else who could do it. Hope this helps
I don't recall those inner fender aluminum pieces in your picture. Could you tell me where they are located on the car?
Right here. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
The best approach I found on the guages is to send them to North Hollywood speedometer. They take them apart and clean all the guages for $125.00. They also have the correct tools, so there is no damage to the chrome ring.
Jon - This question concerns your post 1409, second photo (rear inner fender). Is the rear fender where it curves back under the car (behind the rear wheel) single wall or double wall? Is there a drain hole? Some cars appear to be double wall, while I have been told that others are single wall. I have also been told that some have one or more drain holes in the area, others do not. Thank you - Mark
Thinking about this again, I'm not sure how far gone your bumper is, so perhaps you might want to take it to someone in the business to evaluate it. Scotty uses Verne's Chrome plating in Gardena. Verne has told me before how thin the Ferrari pieces are so he is aware of the problem. Contact him here: http://www.verneschromeplating.com/rechromed-bumpers.html
Mark, When we discussed this two weeks ago, I thought you meant the part at Jon's first image in post 1409, the metal that touches the "r" in the word "fender" that curves down to the right and attaches to the small vertical square tubing. Correct?
Thanks for the follow up. I am going to copy your reply into a new thread so it is searchable. Depending on the lead time this project may have to wait until after I show the car at Strawberry Farm / Newport Beach as I am already registered for the show.
I've been a little slow lately as the beach has been calling. I did manage to powder coat a few parts, bumper brackets, valve covers, ignition support bracket and the tank that I salvaged from the fire. After reading the firewall thread I decided to take a look at mine. I will definitely be making a new one. I have a new tool coming that hopefully will enable me to duplicate the original. I took it apart, it is basically 2 pieces sandwiched together with some heat insulation material in between. A third piece is spot welded on and contains the groove where they slip together. The serial # plate is riveted on the engine side. Jim, can I use the McMasters closed cell foam between these 2 pieces? Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Jon: I recommend that you use the aluminized heat barrier cloth for the firewall piece instead of the closed cell foam. It is really thin, easy to work with and does a great job at shielding the heat from the trunk. See the following link for sourcing/pricing. http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=1828 Cheers, Keith
It has worked well as the meat in my sandwiched firewall panel. Make sure you orient the material within the sandwich so that the aluminized side is facing towards the engine. It's so thin, you can probably stick a piece on both inside faces of the sandwich (I think that is what I did). Let me know if you need/want photos before you proceed. Cheers...Keith
Can you powder coat aluminium? I would love to powder coat the new expansion tank I got from Superformance. I used a hard enamel paint but it is not holding up very well. Boy, I love what you did with the Dino cam covers. It looks like mine (2L Spyder) were Magnesium - did the 246s come treated or were they bare as well? Andrew
You can powder coat aluminum, I powder coated the cam covers then sanded off the "Dino" for a subtle difference. The cam covers were bare.