Anyone know how to seperate these? Anyone?
I would love to, but the space is not large enough to get tape in, the pictures may make it look bigger than it actually is.
slide something like a thin brush handle trough the hole to sort of create yourself a handle and then just pull away from the wheel. Be careful and apply evenly increasing pressure perpendicular to the wheel's face so you don't brake it at the spokes.
IT WORKED! I was having trouble at first ,reallllly cranking on it to the point where I was sure it would break, then I tried another wheel and PRESTO! The one wheel was VERY tough, but the rest were just fine. Thanks Lucky!
OK, so I've gone through the paint process on the metal pieces. Primed, sanded, repeated, then the deep blue and a light clear for protection. I'm working on the decals now. Again, I'm trying to do this on the cheap, to see what the minimum cost to make a great model might be. I've made some designs and am in the process of planting them on my white 360 WHIPS edition(I don't want to get tape on my painted model ). I've completed my design in Photoshop, now I'm just getting the decals sized properly and then cutting them out and planting them on the WHIPS to see how it looks and fits. I still can't find any mesh for the grills and air inlets! I've been to all the hobby stores, they have none. I've been told to use window screening, but the Home Depots around here don't carry the repair kits, only the rolls of screen material, which costs too much and doesn't look right anyway. Anyone got any other ideas? I've heard of using nylon stockings, think I'll hit the dollar store today for that attempt. If you know anywhere to find a good mesh-like replacement, let me know! Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
After looking everywhere for some sort of mesh replacement, I went to a local head shop, "Up In Smoke." They had screens for their "tobacco pipes", bought 10 large ones for one dollar, and I got to pick the color, GOLLLLLD! A little cutting and they'll fit fine, but OH they looks so good, matches the gold of the Red Bull logo perfectly. Will post pics once I get them all planted in
Ran into a problem today... As I was trying to fit the pieces back together, I had a couple of paint chips flake off. One near the front right headlight assembly, and then when I tried to put the engine bay cover on, it scraped some off the bodywork. Has anyone ever tried to repair paint that has been damaged in this way? I'd rather not paint the whole body again, but if I must, I will. The first two pics are of the spots where the paint chipped. The last are of the gold screens installed. Let me know about the paint! Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Painting models is a bit of a trial and error thing. Practice makes perfect and so on. I had a lot of painting problems myself during my work on 330 P4 models so I had to take the paint off a zillion times. Problems like paints interacting, colour differences, paint coming off, bubbles, flaws etc. I suggest you should paint the body again and be sure there is absolutely no grease on the bare metal or the first layer. Nowadays I spray the well prepared bare metal body with white Motip automotive lacquer. An hour and a half later I paint it red directly. I paint in thin layers during a colour session. I suggest a clear layer over the metallic coat for enhancing the gloss. With the standard acrylic Motip lacquer the above mentioned method works quite well. It dries quick and the gloss is intense. Today I just painted a nose section for a second 330 P3/4 s/n 0846 belonging to a close friend. In fact I'm watching the paint dry at this very moment. Keep up the good work! Wouter Bekker
All but some minor details are left now. The decals were tough to cut out - I have big lanky fingers to help though . I bought the waterslide decal paper on ebay for $1.30 a sheet. Not perfect, but again, this project was to see "how low could I go" in the budget for the remodel. The paint wanted to chip a few times, fixed and painted lighter coats. Still have to add the metal "Ferrari" and the prancing horse on the rear, a front license plate(had one but didn't like the look), and the roll bars, which will match the other reds. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
BTW, does anyone know how to do the metal "Ferrari" and the prancing horse on the rear? Can they be purchased at the 1:18 size?
Do an ebay search for "Ferrari photoetch" also use p/e, etched, scripts, etc. I'd guess that they're out there in 1/18. If not, I know some are available in 1/16...if that's close enough.
For the metal logos & prancing horse, I use rhe Crazy modeller's material, you can find it ar HIROBOY (they are in UK). Self adhesive, very nice.