the Air flow meter is the same used in the 540,740,840 BMW's E31, E32, E34 chassis. quick search on Ebay shows one up for less than $100, http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BMW-540-740-840-AIR-FLOW-METER_W0QQitemZ130135309018QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item130135309018 Bosch part number: 0 280 217 800
Good info---Thanks---I am in the process of compiling a list just like this for all to use--aftermarket parts that work like stock but half the price--if anyone has anything to add please PM with the info....
Way to go 285!!! I was thinking about doing this..for now we need to spend quite a bit of time searching multiple threads with different terms to find anything...are you going to make that part of the 355 registry site?
No problem, I was just finishing a Major on a 355 and when I was putting the sensor back it was one of those 'wait a minute' thoughts. 'that sure looks like the BMW ones, that mounting tab is the giveaway' on the BMW's the flat tab is used with a spring clamp. a quick net search confirmed it, I didn't have any BMW's in the shop at the moment to look at.
Good thinking SMG...any more tips on the major? I'm looking to do mine this winter and will be compiling as many pics and tips as possible before starting... when doing my air pump I searched and the BMW's were close but not quite the same, never did find an exact lower cost replacement.
Cool, I have the Bosch part numbers for the 5.2 for the following: 1) Coolant temp switch 2) Idle control motor 3) Throttle position potentiometer I can probably come up with the O2 sensors too...hit me up and I'll send them to you.
it's fairly straight forward, disconnecting the lines can be tricky for the PS pump and AC because of access and tight space. the AC is a 28mm nut and a 28mm wrench is huge! for the space by the manifold, you'll two wreches at one to hold the fitting the other to turn the nut loose with out twisting the line the other is a 26mm. the second line can be disconnected at the condensor side its a 17/19mm combination, I tried the fittings on the AC/compressor itself and they would not budge! since I'm not interested in breaking things I just disconnected the lines where they meet the chassis. have the system evacuated, the ports are up front under the bonnet, you'll have to remove the felt/board cover. the ECU harness is a pain due to the 3 additional connectors all having to fit thru a small hole. push the connectors thru first and the main connector last, reverse when assy. also be careful on the harness as it has shielded wire inside. the shift rod isn't bad but an odd design, leave the block together and remove the bolt/pin from the shafts on both ends. get the bumper and lid off as that gets you more space and the bumper has to come off to get the engine to roll out. one thing to keep in mind, the weight balance on the 355 really FAVORS the rear! the car will balance on the rear jack points! CAREFUL CAUTION is needed when lifting the car. I place at least 150lbs of ballast in the front trunk area to keep the nose down. the oil cooler lines are also very large 38~40mm from what I recall. on the drivers side remove the CAT ECU from the frame and the large ECU connection above it as well, they get in the way when separating the two and you don't want to mash them. if I think of more I'll post it up.
