Advice for my first track day

1 - Have fun.
2 - Go back for more.
3 - Get better.
4 - Notice that faster folks have track day tires. Purchase extra set of wheels and tires.
5 - Notice that faster folks have various mods, including suspension, etc. Purchase mods.
6 - Notice that faster folks have safety equipment - install roll bar and harnesses.
7 - Notice that faster folks tow their cars to the track. Purchase tow vehicle and trailer.
8 - Get tired of towing. Notice that faster folks have prep shops or dealers take their cars to the track. Pay to become an arrive and drive guy.
9 - Notice that faster guys have been to racing schools. Attend several schools.
10 - Notice that faster guys have real race cars. Buy race car.
11 - Notice that faster guys actually race. Become bored with track days, go racing.
12 - Total car, take up less expensive meth consumption habit.

 

Hah, that's (WCH's commentary) good entertainment. <grin>

Seriously? 50% is the minimum thickness that you would want to go to the track with. You will likely be fine on all but the harshest braking tracks, particularly when starting out. You'll be fine, especially if it is your first track event. Check them on the morning of the second day. If you're MUCH thinner, quit early.

I recommend 4-6psi more than the COLD OE recommended pressures. This reduces sidewall flex, protects the shoulders of the tread blocks a little more. Be sure to reduce the pressures after it cools down to OE specs to improve ride quality.

Have fun, it's a great escape!

-Peter
www.peterkrause.net

 

Is it an FCA day or a mixed track event with other marques?

Anyway my tips would be (mostly assuming you are a novice):

Listen to the instructor.
Enjoy yourself and don't worry about speed.
If its a mixed track day expect to be passed by other "lesser" cars - don't worry about it, you are there to have fun.
If its an FCA day, expect to be passed by a hot-shoe in a 308GT4 - similarly don't worry about this either.
re the two previous points, please give point bys to these guys, for the moment they're faster than you.
If you are caught up in traffic really try to concentrate on your own line, not follow other people.

On the 360, IF you are fast (lets say you've done a lot of other track time in other cars) then:
be careful with the brakes, with stock fluid you'll overheat them and end up with a very soft pedal (note this only applys if you are fast).
be careful at/beyond the limit, the stock 360 oversteers in a hard to recover way, the rebound is agressive and the inside spin is difficult to avoid (CS is better...)

IF you are really fast, then the car is much more controllable with the traction control off. However, as long as you've braked enough for corners, leaving it on will pretty much keep you out of trouble. BUT if you get into a momentum oversteer situation (ie you braked too late, turned in too agressively), then you are better off with the traction control off to get yourself out of your overdriving (never done this myself of course...). <-- Note this point should be ignored unless you really know what you are doing

 

1) Listen to the instructor but DO NOT let their commentary override your common sense. It is YOUR car and YOUR problem if it gets wrecked, so temper their advice on how to go faster with your perspective regarding what you have at stake

2) Relax, dont try to be the fastest guy. Concentrate on technique and getting comfortable with the car, the speed will come later

3) Check your car for problems/safety issues before AND after the event!

4) Dont be afraid to ask questions and request clarification of anything you dont get or that doesnt seem right to you

5) Above all, have a great time!

 

+1.
Took out my glass car for a run for the first time this year, and it was a blast. Got rid of some cob webs, and enjoyed the day. Do the same and have fun. post pics when you get back !
Cheers !!

 

I'm glad you're taking the good approach of asking for advice. So here's my humble advice for what it's worth : (assuming you weren't joking) please get all the thoughts of doing flamboyant power slides out of your head. If others are not aware of what you're trying to do you WILL cause an accident.

The track is about learning lines, apexes and braking points - i.e. actually going fast instead of hooning around. Keep that in mind and you'll do fine.

I hate to say this next bit, but it has to be said : be prepared to wreck. You must be mentally prepared for that if you want to track your car. Most track days go by without incident, but you must realise that you're driving close to the limit in a semi-controlled environment, and mistakes can easily happen. Make sure your safety gear is up to scratch : racing harness, helmet, Nomex if you're serious and can afford it. At the very least you should have a cheap fire extinguisher mounted securely in your car. A roll cage is a great idea if you can afford it and it's road legal where you are (it's not where I live).

One more word about preparing for the worst : find out if your insurance covers damages on-track (get it in writing), or if you can get special track-day insurance. If insurance is a no-go, make sure everyone on the track is in the same place about the way accidents are to be handled. The etiquette in my local track days (no track insurance available) is that if two cars collide, each driver bears his own costs. Regrettably, I've had to personally test this etiquette once a while back when I was involved in a track day accident. It is almost impossible to apportion blame in a track day and there is no presiding authority to take responsibility, so coming up with a gentleman's pre-agreement is important. Make sure your personal injury/life insurance policy covers incidents on track - I know mine doesn't, but that's standard boilerplate in my locale, so I have no choice.

Hope for the best but prepare for the worst. And I sincerely hope it turns out to be a safe, fun and enriching experience for you!

 

Had a friend with a black 360 Modena who ran out brake pads on the track. His car caught on fire. He was Ok but the the car was in the shop for months getting everything fixed.

Always err on too much brakes rather than too little IMVHO.

 

Every tracking event I have been on requires a helmet. Get the latest Snell rating you can. Full face version. They come out every couple of years. Motorcycle helmets are not fireproof so get a proper car racing helmet.

Got a fire extinguisher for car use at the local hardware store. $20.00. I velchro'ed mine behind the passenger seat on the 360.

Tire pressure data inside passenger door. Better to be a little high than a little low. Test when tires are cold.

Remove everything loose from the trunk and cockpit.

Driving shoes are nice as are nomex driving gloves.

Take or have access to lots of water. It's usually hot at the track and in the car.

Enjoy.

 

The instructor should not really make you drive faster - its more about safety and accuracy as a result of which you might go quicker

 

+1

You will probably want to go faster as you gain confidence to see what your capacities are and what the car can do. Derek Bell was my instructor and told me not to worry, the car (355) was capable of soooo much more than I was. the more seat time, the better you will be. Go to a good driving school like Skip Barber to really know what you are supposed to be doing and why. Experimenting at speed is not the time to find out about trailing throttle oversteer TTO.

Things you need to know;
Proper seat position.
Proper hands position.
When to shift.
When to brake.
When to look at your gauges.
When to look in your mirrors.
When and how to be passed.
When and how to pass others.
What the flags mean.
How to enter and exit the track safely.
What to do and not do if you go off the track.

Learn the racing line. If you are not in the racing line, slow down until you can stay in it...faster and safer. the only way to go IMVHO.

Do NOT turn off the ASC. Not worth saving a few tenths of a second to risk the car and your life.

 

"You will probably want to go faster as you gain confidence to see what your capacities are and what the car can do."

True, that is the natural order of things. However, it is always easier to add speed than to take it off! Start gently and add in small bites.

"the more seat time, the better you will be."

No question. That's why people are generally much quicker now than they used to be. Track access is much easier than it was even ten or fifteen years ago.

"Proper seat position"

A must! Most folks sit too far away from the pedals and particularly the steering wheel. You should be able to, with a straight arm and your back in full contact with the seat back, drape your wrist over the top of the wheel (well, at least the palm of your hand).

"Proper hands position."

9 o'clock and 3 o'clock (or 8 and 4 in the older cars), split the wheel into left and right halves and try not to allow the hands to cross the center line. Goal is to "shuffle steer."

"When to shift."

Less is better. When starting out (and even when you get quicker), stick in a gear and leave it. Running around in lower gears with higher revs make the car much more sensitive to sudden throttle changes. (which, incidentally, is one of the very few things that can make the car spin or "break loose" in a steady-state cornering situation...) These things have mega-torque, let the engine do the work.

"When to brake."

Pick a landmark and become consistent. Better to brake earlier and easier than later and harder. Squeeze rather than stab, paying as much attention to how you release the brakes as how you apply them. Get all your braking done in a straight line and try to be back on mild, "station-keeping" throttle at the point of "turn-in" (or the point at which you select a level of steering input that will "draw an arc" through the corner with no further changes).

"When to look at your gauges."

Early on the straights.

"When to look in your mirrors."

When coming out of a corner to determine when to point someone by, but not at the end of the straight or near corner entry. Look ahead, not behind...

"When and how to be passed."

If someone shows up in your mirrors at the exit of a corner, there's only one way they got there. They're quicker than you! <grin> Doesn't matter if you can do a "horizon job" on them on the straights, let them by early in the straght and facilitate the pass by breathing OFF the accelerator to reduce the overtaking time as much as possible. Less risk that way.

"When and how to pass others."

If you come up on folks and they point you by, evaluate whether it is in a designated passing area and determine whether or not you can get the pass DONE by the end of the passing area, NOT the braking zone! <very big grin> If you can, GO, but only when given a point. Often, most organizations require the first car "in line" after the lead car go first and that there be a single point by given by the overtaken car for EACH car to go by. Follow your gut, do what is safe. There is no incident without two cars in close proximity. <grin>

"What the flags mean."

Covered in the drivers meeting. Find out if they use a red flag and what that procedure is, if applicable.

"How to enter and exit the track safely."

Again, covered in the drivers meeting. Leave the pits only under the direction of the pit exit person and indicate to the people on track behind you if you're planning to pit.

"What to do and not do if you go off the track."

Perhaps the best point. If you're going to spin or go off the track, decide to do so early. Don't be a hero and "dirt track" it out, you'll only hit whatever is close harder. "If you spin, both feet in," the mantra of former Ferrari sports car driver Brian Redman. "If in doubt, both feet out," is the other. If there are gravel traps or a soft sandy surface, DRIVE STRAIGHT OFF. Turning can cause a car to "dig in."

"Learn the racing line. If you are not in the racing line, slow down until you can stay in it...faster and safer. the only way to go IMVHO."

Good advice, developing and demonstrating that discipline is the difference between amateurs and professionals.

"Do NOT turn off the ASC. Not worth saving a few tenths of a second to risk the car and your life."

A little dramatic, but good advice. As you gain experience and confidence, you can turn it off, but you'll first need to develop the ability to break down the level of your control inputs (brake, gas, steering) to the level where you can feel the difference in a few thicknesses of a credit card (in the middle of a corner) before you can use all that capability safely...

Most of all, trust your gut and have fun! Track events are as safe as "the loose nut behind the wheel." <very big grin> Thousands of people drive their cars on track every month without calamity and you can too. Enjoy!

-Peter
www.peterkrause.net

 

There is some debate as to whether it is dangerous to use a full face helmet in a car that is equipped with Airbags and a stock seat-belt, some believe that if you are using such a car that an open face helmet might in fact be safer if the airbag is set off. I would talk to Bell / Simpson.... about this first before I picked one. I know that some clubs are now banning this.

Picking a fire extinguisher is more than picking one up at a hardware store.


I would never drive is a car that a fire extinguisher was velcro in, I am shocked that it has passed tech that way. They will become projectiles in a car @ speed. If you are going to go this route at least make sure that it is mounted properly.

What are the differences between extinguishing agents?

Halon 1211: Advantages are that it leaves no residue, effective, not thermal shocking and the bottle withstands higher cockpit heat compared to Halon 1301. Disadvantages are that it is toxic, does not quench the fire and is Ozone depleting. This chemical was not designed for system use as it is toxic, designed for hand held fire extinguishers only. This is one of two chemicals used by FireBottle (the other being CEA-614). Safecraft offers this chemical for high-heat installations. We recommend Halon 1211 when the bottle is placed over exhaust systems or stored in an area where the bottle will be subjected to sustained temperatures at or above 130º F.

CEA-614: This is a Halon substitute. Advantages are that it leaves no residue, not thermal shocking, and relatively Ozone safe. Disadvantages are that it does not quench the fire and it takes twice as much material to do the same job as Halon. It is also expensive. Although 5# of CEA-614 may be legal for use in the SCCA, it will not do the same job as 5# of Halon.

AFFF or ColdFire: These are examples of foaming water-based systems. Advantages are that it quenches the fire. Disadvantages are that systems are heavy, large, may thermal shock, will not spread out like Halon, leaves a mess both in the car and on the track. If you would like this agent, we have another brand available using AFFF.

Halon 1301: In my opinion, the best product on the market. Advantages are that it is effective, non-toxic, non-caustic, leave no residue, small, lightweight, industry standard with plenty of supply, no thermal shock, leaves no mess. Disadvantages are that it does not quench the fire and it is Ozone depleting.


Have a great time, but you have been warned! These things are really addicting and before you know it you will be scanning the racing classifieds for a "proper" racecar to go racing in. It is a slippery slope my friend, enjoy the ride!

 

Before you take your 360 out on the track, take a Skip Barber or Simular course. Then you will learn the basics from a pro. Its best to learn the right way first. It will help you both on the track and the street.

 

Develop skills then add speed - don't feel the pressure to go too fast, too soon.
Look ahead - keep your eyes up so you have time to plan your path and be smooth with your inputs.

 

Just go and have fun. You're not going to remember half the stuff in this thread when you’re out on the track. Obviously rely on your common sense. And take it easy at first. Do this and you will be fine.

 

There is a lot of good advice in this thread. Instead of writing a whole lot more that you may not remember, I will offer some simple advice you might be able to remember without distracting yourself.

Be SMOOTH. Be SMOOTH. Be SMOOTH.

The fastest lap times are often turned when it doesn't FEEL the fastest. Its the least distance traveled around the track, every apex and every perfect clipping popint smoothly linked together. Trap speeds are often not the highest of the day on your fastest lap.



And I would get newer brake pads. It'd be a shame to waste the day cause your brakes are worn. At the best, you'll be distracted b/c you will be concerned about brake life. At the worst, you may cook the pads, overshoot a corner and damage your car. Know what I mean?

 

stay away from the walls Have fun!

 

+1

People will invest lots of money in a car. How much are they willing to invest in themselves for improvement and fulfillment at a small fraction of the cost? Yet investing in oneself's own improvement is one of the main things life is about.

Your post beat mine by a nanosecond. congratulations on your decision.

 

Enjoy it's great fun. Take it easy for a bit, get a rhythm going

If it all go's wrong, make sure you publicly blame the tyres, the weather, the marshals, other drivers, and hell you will be halfway to being world champion without even going on a course to learn.

 

My bit of advice.
Be prepared to see experianced drivers in Mazda Miatas pass you at first. This can be a very humbling experiance. Buck up. Forget about them and concentrate on learning the correct techniques; slowly at first. Babies learned to crawl before walking, then running. Concentrate on the line and your brake and acceleration points. Do everything correctly and steadily and speed will come. You are making a big step that most dont take at all. Congratulations.