WUR ADUUSTMENT

Okay, I know there are a lot of threads on this topic, but none that I found seem to help. THe WUR on my 83 308 QV was just replaced by a very reputable shop. However, I noticed today on the way home that when the car warms up, the idle is at 2000 RPM. It's sort of like having cruise control and rather frustrating at red lights!

It was idleing perfectly (~500 RPM) before this repair. In order for my car to pass inspection, the mixture had to be adjusted and the spark plugs that were in the car were too cold. They were replaced with a hotter plug and the car definately has more pep to it when the accelerator is punched or just blipped. It seems to run hotter (oil and water temp slightly higher), but I don't smell the gasoline anymore when sitting still or parked in the garage like it did before as it was very rich. The fuel lines are new so don't worry about a fuel leak. So, all in all, I think the adjustments that were made were for the better.

However, now the idle is messed up. Suggestions? By the way, when cold, it idles fine. Only after it warms up does it idle too high. No, the floor mat is not in the way!

Thanks,
GT

 

Note in my post that I said the carpet is not the culprit... I wish that was it. I bought the carpet grabbers from Birdman and they work for a good period of time before they slip out again. But that is not the situation here. I should be more careful, I think the idle was closer to 750 RPM, not 500 RPM to be honest. Either way, 2000 RPM is way to high.

Only when the car is warm, this happens. I think it may have something to do with the new WUR (aftermarket) settings and the fact that my car had to be adjusted pretty heavily to get it to pass the HC inspection. I have been in discussion with the shop and they have some ideas of what might be causing it. THey said it was very difficult to get it to pass the inspection, since there are no cats or air pump on it.

They mentioned that we could try to put a restrictor (hose in a hose) on the idle control valve to help less manifold vacuum bypass. They also mentioned that they had to set the idle pretty high to get it to pass since the Hydrocarbons were through the roof at below 1000 RPM. They think that I may be able to back the idle down and it might be okay. I'll let you know.

The shop is Excellent and I'm sure we'll get it figured out. I just know how busy they are and I want to try and get this nailed down without having to go back in to them if possible.
Thanks all!

 

I mispoke... the WUR is a Bosch unit, but a rebuilt one. I had to send my old one in for a core charge. The Rubuilt bosch unit was $292.95 but is bosch, not aftermarket.

 

Okay, but the question is then, would a high warm idle point to a faulty WUR or a faulty adjustment on the car to get it to pass emission testing? The WUR could still be okay?

 

Okay, thanks to all for helping out! The fuel pressures were tested and the Wur was found to be bad, so it was replaced. The idle was fine, but the mixtures were off and had to be tweaked, plugs replaced with hotter ones (in fact, the ones that were in the car were too cold as it was) and the idle was raised a bit to get the car to pass emissions.

I have to try and bring the idle back down a bit and see if it helps. But the Wur was replaced since it was bad (car ran very rich). But the idle issue was new to the car, but obviously must be a result of mixture and idle changes to get the car to pass inspection. Again, no cats and no air pump. The technician said it was very tough to get it to pass.

Anyway,. I honestly have not had time to check it out and take a look at all of the good suggestions you have all made. I'll be sure to get back to all and let you know what happens.

Thanks again!
John

 

Well, I took the car out for a drive last night and found the high idle situation to be almost intermitent. However, it did stay around 2K RPM the warmer the engine got from driving around. I was able to come to red lights and stop signs in 2nd or 1st gear and not push the clutch in until the last second which forced the engine to slow below 2K RPM just before coming to a full stop. Then I was able to push the clutch in to prevent the car from stalling and the idle was perfect at ~ 900 to 1K RPM.

So, if I am able to "force" the engine speed down below 2K before coming to rest, it will stay there. However, the idle is still high while 'rolling" along in 2nd or 3rd gear. Again, much like a cruise control.

My follow up question: If the idle was simply set too high, wouldn't the engine go back up to 2K after I push the clutch in at a stop sign? Once I get the RPM below or at the 1K RPM point, she stays there just fine.

I have yet to find any vacuum lines cracked or disconnected.

Thanks,
John