Buyer's Guide by Ric Rainbolt The text below is from an old email sent by Ric Rainbolt to the FerrariList and is published on this site with his permission. It might contain from nice tips for persons looking to buy a Testarossa. Note: If you're looking for good places to discuss Ferrari-subjects with owners and enthousiasts, go to FerrariChat and FerrariList. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I would seriously consider a 512TR. The price premium is, IMHO, worth the difference. If, in fact, you do look for a TR, there are many things to consider. Here are just a few... 1) Early TRs have spline wheels, which have been known to come off at speed. Although not "normal" or common, this has been known to happen (right, Chuckie? . It also makes it harder to get aftermarket wheels. Replacement OEM wheels can be very expensive. 2) Some Early TRs (particularly Euro-spec) have metric rims. I would avoid these OR factor in a $2000-$3500 deduction to buy replacement wheels if you find an otherwise perfect car that has them. 3) When TR production "swapped" to bolt-on wheels (mid-1988), other changes were introduced, including a near total change in suspension parts. Several other minor changes were made in various parts of the car. 4) Make sure any early TR (pre-89) you might buy has had the "pump chain update" and the "water pump update". These items are problematic, and can be cause for the engine to have to be removed (i.e. $$$). 5) Keep in mind that a TR has to have the engine out in order to do cam belt maintenance. This service runs from $5000-$7500, typically. If the car has more than 15,000 miles or 6-7 years since the last cam belt service, you should include the costs of this maintenance in your math. 6) Watch out for poorly converted Euro-spec cars (gray market). Amerispec does top quality work, but there are (or rather, were) many "Importers" during the TRs heyday. Many TRs were imported due to shortages and astronomical prices here in the U.S. Quite a few were shoddily homologated, sometimes creating a time-bomb (literally).. a few of them have actually burned up. 7) If the prospective car you find needs parts, determine the cost *AND* availability of those parts BEFORE you commit to a deal. Some TR parts are now getting close to impossible to get new, and scarcely available used. Your best bet in this situation is to make a contract to buy a car, AFTER your listed repair items have been corrected. 8) Low mileage cars are not always the "bargains" they appear to be. A car that sits for 5 years with no mileage may also be a maintenance nightmare waiting to happen. Corrosion, dry seals, hardened O-rings and gaskets, gas "gum", rotted coolant lines and seized brake pistons are not uncommon on very low mileage cars... (e.g. "I only drove it twice a year, why should I have to replace the coolant annually??"). 9) Like almost any model of any car, the later the better. The Test Drive... It's best to inspect a prospective car from dead cold. If the car has been driven to you, or driven just before you arrive, the seller might be (consciously or inadvertently) hiding a cold start or warm up problem. The engine should start fairly easily... 2-3 seconds, longer if car has sat for days. A small to medium ejection of smoke is normal after starting flat-12 engines, so don't be alarmed. Let the owner start it. If he has to "work the throttle" or wrangle the car to start it, somethings wrong. If the owner races the engine cold, be wary. After starting from cold, the fuel control system will idle the engine high during warm-up (2500-ish) and "settle in" to around 1000 RPM when fully warm. Allow about 1 minute before pulling away. *Don't* let the car warm fully before driving it. If it has a cold running problem, you want to discover it now, not later. Light bobbling and an occasional miss are not uncommon during warm up. No backfiring or exhaust popping should occur (afterburn). Drive caringly for the first few minutes to let the engine and gear oil warm up. Do not abuse the car until the oil temp has risen at least 1/4 of the scale. When cold, 2nd gear may be finicky, this is somewhat normal. After the car is fully warmed, you should be able to select any gear. Run from 2000 to redline (6600) in 2nd gear (15 to about 60 mph). The car should pull hard, smoothly and with no hesitation, misses or backfiring. During the pull, observe the rear view. Some light brown haze is normal, as the Bosch CIS tends to run excessively rich during WOT. White smoke is not good. Some steering wheel shake might be normal, if the car has old tires or has sat for a long period. If the steering wheel shake is coincident with braking, it's likely to be warped front rotors and not old tires. In a safe place, brake lightly while holding the steering wheel very lightly (fingertips). No off center pull should be noted. Progressively increase braking to about 80%, continuing to monitor the steering. As a norm, the TR is rock stable from a dead stop to over 150 mph, so any queer straight-line handling could be problematic. BTW, I don't recommend exceeding 80 during a test drive, for liability and safety reasons. Braking should be nice and progressive, but remember, the TR is a heavy car, so don't expect miracles from the brakes. Again, in a safe place, run the car up to about 50 MPH. Shut the key engine, but DON'T lock the steering wheel!!! Return the key to the run position, but with the engine still off. Remember with the engine off, you'll have no brake assist, so do this on a deserted road and BE CAREFUL! Make a light figure "S" in the road, listening for clonks and hissing. Any hissing noise other than tire or wind noise could mean wheel bearing or CV joint problems. Any "clonks" could be one or more bad shocks (the TR has 6 shock absorbers!). After the drive, but before you turn the car off, test everything electrical (A/C, heat, radio, both windows, move the A/C vents (recirculate, feet, windshield, etc.), windshield wipers, honk the horn (yarnk!), etc. Get out and check all the lights... don't forget, the TR has two sets of headlights. Check for the presence of the tool kit and the jack bag (two separate kits, usually under the front bonnet). Check to see that the front bonnet and rear deck open and close normally. Since it's easy to damage the front bonnet and, to some extent, the rear deck lid, let the owner open and close them. They should both open easily, and close with a light push. After about 5-8 minutes, restart the car. It should start quickly and with little fuss and return to idle quickly. Also, look up inside the "cheese grates". A well maintained car won't have much (or any) trash inside. It's also a good place to spot overspray from any paint work. Here are some nominal adjustment costs to consider: Needs a clutch job: Deduct $3000 Needs emission work: Deduct $1000-$5000 Has TRX tires and metric rims: Deduct $2000-$3500 Has not had "chain update" or "water pump update": Deduct $1000 Needs brake work: Deduct $400-$2000 Needs shocks: Deduct $600 front, $1200 rear Doesn't idle smoothly, starts poorly, or stalls: Avoid, at least until corrected Smokes on startup: Normal for flat-12 engines White smokes while running: *Avoid* And for God's sake, have the car inspected by a mechanic and, if desired, a body shop man. Good luck, Ric Rainbolt
I have been trying to collect problem areas for the TR, and thought I'd add them to this thread. If anyone can add anything, or correct errors I'd appreciate it. '84-'87 recall for seatbelts, water pumps and chains, diff failure, dash leather shrinkage, warped disks, frozen calipers, frozen single wheel nut, weak clutch, weak 2nd gear synchro, cv joints, cables for hood & trunk release, electical issues, rust on door bottoms, where A & B pillar meet, and battery tray. '88 same as above, but no single wheel nuts. '89-'91 same as '88, but water pumps and chains updated. '92-'93 (512TR) same as '89-'91 but add hot start due to solenoid '94-95 (512M) Same as '93-93, but no solenoid issue, diff failure corrected.
I love how the early model always gets the short end of the stick..... as a 9 yr owner of one, i have yet to encounter these issues..........marketing at its best. When i was looking the 512tr was double the money for similar mileage and condition.......to me double the money did not seem like double the fun. This info would hold true when buying the car in the early stages, but given the car is now 22 yr old, these things mor ethan likely have been addressed....im surprised they didnt mention the board replacement because they melt. Happy motoring !
Thank you all for taking the time to write this up. It is tremendous help when searching for a Ferrari.
The "water pump update" is presumably referencing the seal change midway thru the TR series. If so, it is a minor cost adder during the next major service. No added labor cost - minimal changes in parts. Not an issue. The chain update will require additional labor & parts at the next major. If I recall correctly, it was problem with the master link coming off the chain. Can anybody add some detail & cost info here? Was there an FCar recall on this? Rgds, Vince
My 1987 Testarossa had an alternator belt update also, something about the shape of the belt either v shape or grove. I was told by the previous owner (1st), that the dealer took care of it under warranty at that time. not sure it they have to pull the engine out, if the crank pulley drives the belt for the alternator. He told me that the belts keeps coming out. Had similar stories from other TR owners and shop that did the major service on Testarossa's. Jr
We need a Testarossa buyers. Vote to have this sticky. I am shocked Testarossa is not given as much attention as the Boxer.
Forza Ferrari..... http://www.theautochannel.com/publications/magazines/forza/number16/pg54.frame Rgds, Vince
Dear Ferraristi, Blasphmer ! Like all things, wait till the 80's come back ! ....yes they will ! Shamile Freeze...Miami Vice !
I thought it was already here! With the pencil cut jeans and ugly hair styles (punked and ragged look) that the younger high schoolers are sporting out now. The only difference that I see is that its more a fashion statement now than a lifestyle! BTW, Billy Idol still rocks!!!
When my 87 was under warranty, the dealer fixit was a different updated single v belt. Still threw the belt under heavy charge when the battery was low with high engine revs. The correct fix was to change to the multi v belt pulley system. You have to remove the engine to change the crank pulley.
Never heard of this chain problem. Have owned a 1986 Testarossa since 1989. Recently parted with it (sadly). Has anyone experienced a "chain" problem? Master links don't come off. Motorcylces and Dino cams have masterlinks....never seen a bike rider on the side of the road moaning, "Damn, the master link came off." Jim S.
If I was thinking about buying a TR for more than $25k I would be stupid. All these things that go wrong and if the car is low miles then they are worse than a high millage car. PLEASE A 1988 TR is 20 years old and most have had 2 or 3 owners in that time. IF you find a LOW MILES Car with all the PROOF of what it is then BUY the darn thing. I have been BLASTED by more on this than I want to talk about. An owner decides to replace EVERYTHING they do not like on the car when they buy it, door panel, trim parts etc, you get all that paperwork show it to a buyer and they FREAK OUT that the car was WRECKED and a salvage job. If you want a Ferrari and a super car in its day, BUY a TR you can then make it the way YOU WANT IT. I still have mine and will probably get rich writing a book about the EXPERTS that have wasted my time telling me how my car is no good and I should just take there offer since they MUST be smarter than me and I NEED THE MONEY. Yea Right. A buyers guide is good but if someone pulled some of those tricks on a test drive I would be introducing then to Mr Colt in a hurry. A true buyer treats a car with RESPECT as if it was their own. They do not: Abuse the car to see if it will break RUB the leather trying to GUESS it's condition. You PINCH it to see if it is dry, NEVER RUB If you see something that does not look correct ASK do not start an investigation on your own. I have to replace ALL the Velcro type hold downs under the hood where they cover the Master and such when an EXPERT just tried to JERK UP the carpet. Well I am tired and getting a little frustrated so, good night.
I still have but not advertising it anymore tired of wasting my time. A serious person will figure out how to get in touch with me.
Hi folks, searched for and found this old thread on the TR as I'm considering adding one to the stable. Do you think this buying guide is pretty comprehensive? Does anyone have any other advice to add? Many thanks!
Haha..... 7 years later and CNN has the "Miami Vice" TR on TV as it goes to auction. I love these old threads cause......the Testarossa is back! Shamile Freeze....Miami Vice!
Just thought I check back in on my question re: this buyer's guide. Also found this TR for sale online. How does it look to you guys? Image Unavailable, Please Login
