RPM FACE COLOR CHANGES--the whole process--LOTS of pics

First I want to thank the previous posters, primarily Craig, for providing some great instructions to guide me through this project. And I want to thank Daniel at Ricambi who is the best parts person I've ever dealt with, period. FerrariChat is fortunate to have such a great sponsor and "make-it-happen guy" like Daniel at our service.

I purchased both Red and Yellow faces from Ricambi as I just could not make up my mind when it came to the two colors--they both look fantastic.

The project:

Okay, the directions Craig gave were fantastic. A few areas that I would like to add to are...

1. Remove the bottom pan of the stearing wheel column too, it makes it easier to take off the top because of those damn long female column ends (PIC 1).

2. Use long allen wrenches--much easier (PIC 2).

3. That nebulous retention bar, here's a picture of it, the nut with yellow paint on it. There are actually two holding the thin metal stopper in place, loosening one is all you need to do otherwise it'll be a royal pia to put back together since it's so damn hard to get to. Once I loosened the most accessible nut, closest to you, the bar fell, but since the other nut was still in place it kept the bar, nut, washer and everything in the right place. This is smart--trust me as when you go back to assemble it's a lot easier (PIC 3).

4. When you manage to wiggle the guage cluster out, take it out to the right side as there's more play in the wiring allowing you to rotate the cluster to better get at the rear wiring. The connections on the rear are very difficult to remove from the guages and it doesn't help that the tape gunk is all over them--be sure to clean it off your hands before proceeding to the next step (PIC 4 & 5).
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5. Now that you've got it out and removed the face plate screws (the hammer's there just in case) you can remove the lenses, then the black guage caves..(PIC 1,2), I had to peg it above 200mph for grins. Lord knows I'll never see that speed.
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Now it's time to pry off the needle. Using a screw driver very carefully is key here to get the lip of the needle cup off, then you can use your thumb and forefinger to gently pull it off. Once it's off, the face guages come off very easily, they are so thin.
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Don't forget the details, remove the window framing from the OEM face (see pics) and install it in the intended new one. Place the new face in place and sweep up with a gentle brush to get all the dust out, then blow for grins to be certain. Also, here's a comparison shot of the OEM and the replacement. We'll chat about this some more later. I actually installed the red on first, the the yellow.
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Okay, now put it all together in the reverse (literally). It goes together twice as fast as it did coming apart. Strange, I know, but it does. Here's the red after all is said and done. Pretty cool, eh? Please note, these photos have NOT been altered in anyway, so the color rendition is dead on.

Let's chat now. The color of the bars along the peripherie is an aqua blue, while the center remains very, very dimly lit in the red. Also, please note the various dial colors. Don't be misled by their brightness. Someone thought through this process and brightened or darkened the color so it would be more in line with Ferrari colors (the red and yellow for that matter). While the red appears to light, put it in and it looks perfect. The yellow to bright, put it in and it looks perfect.

Also, there appears to be some metallic on the Ricambi piece not on the OEM. This might have to do with some of the light transmission reduction of the intended color. Don't get me wrong, they look great.

After looking at the red for some time, and knowing I wanted more torture, I pulled it all apart and put the yellow in too. I kept the yellow. It just looked right. In the second to the last pic, I slowed the shutter speed down to two seconds to burn-in the color, that shadowing is NOT visible to the naked eye at all. Burn-in is a process where it allows the faint light to have a chance at the film so you don't just get the bright colors--note the speedo numbers overexposure in this shot.

Again, these colors are DEAD on--no altering.
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Oh, if anyone says it's easy, give them the finger for me. It takes time, patience and some pretty tactile fingers to get it done. If you like working with your hands, you'll enjoy the challenge of getting the upper steering column piece off-the hardest part of the job in my opinion. I do love the results. Just wanted to add that b1tching in. I feel better now.

 

Wonderfull instructions, look forward to do it, thank you!!!

 

I can barely fill the car with fuel, let alone this!!!!!!!!!! LOL!!! However, since you have had the practice feel free to come to my house and do it again!!!!!! LOL!


Robert

 

I'd be happy to help if you live in the area. But I sure ain't paying for it too...

 

The yellow looks sweet!!! Awesome write up!!!

 

Thanks. I may switch into the red in a few weeks just for grins. Once you do it, you can knock it out much faster...

 

Seeeeeeee. that what I'm talking about!!!!!!!!! What? Maybe 4 hour plane ride to DC, I show you the monuments, you change my dashboard out!!! LOL!
Really, great write up and it looks great, I love the yellow!!!! Maybe use the red for track days!!!


Robert

 

Broken, first, I must say, fantastic right up. Much better than the write up I did months ago when I switched the tach gauge on my old 360 Spider....it was 100000 times worse than playing the game Operation as a kid! What I must suggest, however, is that you go back in, peel the needles off and scrape the white paint of the backs of the needles. Then use Model paint red on the undersides of the needles!! It looks fantastic! I will find a pic from my old car and post it.

Nice job!

Joe

 

Beautiful.......love the yellow.

 

Broekn, here is the pic I promised of the red needles....
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Hi Joe,

Congrats again on your beautiful 430. I saw the pic with you and the car--one big ass smile, I must say. Love the color combo...

I must have read your post (and reference to Craig's instructions) a dozen times. I thought hard about painting the needles, and even bought the paint and brushes for the job. But I wanted to see how it looked with the yellow and red faces, and what type of glow came out of the after market dials. As it turns out the glow is greenish/blue and I thought the needles would be fine with it. And with that, I decided to leave them as is. I do know what you're talking about regarding the almost matt finish on the back and how it must be removed. I didn't understand it when I read your post, but once I had them in my hand it all made since. It's a strange way to get those needles to glow. It works so who am I to question...

I may be doing some experimenting on the dials in the near future. I love the ability to mess with them. Thank you for your great write up. I thought I may be able to add some thoughts on the process so more will take on the endeavor.

Cheers~

 

Again, awesome job and it does look great. It is somewhat scary knowing that you were able to "crack" the dash and instrument cluster open on a car that costs a bit more than a Yugo...right???!!

Have a great weekend!

Joe

 

I know. I had to push the thought of this car costing slightly less than my first house while I dug in to the dash.

 

Great write up Joe, Where did you purchase it from Ricambi? I cannot find it on the site?

 

Here they are...

http://www.ricambiamerica.com/product_info.php?products_id=263967

Also, I changed the aluminum metal to a mixture for higher shine for the vent-rings. Will keep u posted...B~

 

Don't know why I said Joe...Lol. Thanks for the link as well as the update on the rings ;~)

 

I did some more work today and wanted everyone to know there is NO way to change the shadowing of the face guage(s) as the lighting panel is the culprit, and the lighting panel determines the light throw. The lighting does not extend 100% around the guage so it is impossible to add to it. There are areas not lit, so no matter what you do to the after market face small shadows will exist due to lack of lighting in that area.

On the 430 the entire area is lit by the luminescent panel. This is intentional by Ferrari as they never expected anyone to remove them and place aftermarkets in, desiring a more comprehensive lighting pattern. If you look at the Ferrari face tach it's blacked out in the area we would like to have lit to gain that 430 look. Well, it ain't going to happen unless you manufacture the luminescent lighting panels and add to it. I also noticed the other guages have unlit areas as well so you can't get around (forgive the pun) it there either.

They still look fantastic and add an incredible twist on the "old", if you know what I mean. It's nice looking down and seeing a different color. I'm glad I have both red and yellow.

e-me with any questions.

Cheers!
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What size allen wrench(s) do you use and any other hints before I start(May the Force Be With You...Lol ;~). Thanks in advance fellas.

'D

 

3mm. Again, take your time and be intuitive in your disassembly. Have fun and post your pics.

 

It's done!!! I Love it. I'll post photos shortly.